madkaw

For the hobbyist the cheap old chop saw was good for me. Yes it makes a little mess, but I prepare for that. Spend less on the saw and buy your self a decent 12" dics sander/belt sander combo and you can sand any angle you need. I found that the with the one and only mandrel exhaust system that I put together(I am making the point that I am only a hobbyist), that the disc sander was invaluable for making the finally fitment.IMHO

I thought I would post pics of these 8.5's since there has been many questions regarding fitment of various sizes. Chris, I hope you don't mind since they aren't the group buy size, but I maybe it will help answer some of the questions. If you notice the lip is about the same size if not exactly the same size, but the spokes are curved. Kim calls these a rbr on the site, but they are definitely the curved spoke like the rb. These wheels will fit without any fender cutting or rolling as long as you stay under a 235 tire. I am running the 245 and I had to trim a lot off the rear lip and the front is very tight on the strut with a little modification needed. The pics are showing the fit with 235 tires, so it actually got a little tighter with my 245's. The front strut perch was hammered flat on the tire side to gain a 1/4", so the spacing actually remained the same for the tire sizes. I hope this helps answer some questions.

I finally took the car off the jacks today after it seems years. Actually it has been up there for the a while to install my wildwoods all the way around and rerun brake lines-PITA. This is the first day I have seen the car with the Rotas and the tires sitting on the ground. By the way the tires are 245/45/17's.

Yes I have dealt with this, just weld fill the hole and redrill. Should last for another 30 years. Just try and get the hole close to where it originally was-no rocket science!

If you don't want to cut your fenders you will HAVE TO use the 8.5's with the +04 offset-period. I have the 8.5's on my car and it very, very tight with 245 tires and I had to trim the fender lips on the rear to make it work. The 8.5's have the same lip size-3", but they are look more like the rbs because of the curved spokes. Hope this helps

Look for a local vendor of these guys! http://www.brakequip.com/mfthread.html

Napa!

http://www.brakequip.com/mfthread.html

Probably too much info in the title, but I tried to cover it all:-D I have recently done my complete 4 wheel wildwood brake set up and can't be happier. I was doing a lot searching the other day about pedal travel and adjustments and stumbled on a possible screw up by me. I noticed after the fact that I was suppose to switch around lines to the master since the ZX master is different as far as front and rear reservoir. My stupid question is that can you just swap out the reserviors on the top of the master and put the larger tank for the fronts? maybe I am not understanding the internals of the master completely, but is there a difference internally? Is it just the reserviors? . Now the ZX 15/16 MC was made for 4 wheel disc or not? What would be the effect of just swapping the reserviors and not the lines? Is not the pressure the same at all corners just regulated by the proportioning valve? Any help in understanding this would be great.

Chris, I forgot you had this project going on besides the rota wheels, your a busy man. Now that I have installed my wildwoods all around I will be interested in this project. I set my line lock/hydraulic brake the other day for the first time, after bleeding my new brakes for the first time, and the rears held for an hour or so. I don't know what to expect from a line lock, but I wouldn't think AZC would sell it if it would cause damage to the seals over time. Since my car will rarely be parked on a hill(indianapolis), the parking brake was not that important to me, but I would still like to have something other then the line lock. I am envious of your fabrication skills and look forward to seeing updates

I found a business that would make up custom line lengths with the different line ends already installed. They also sent an adapter to go from metric to standard for my other fitting. I believe I was using an inferior tool, but I will take part of the blame also I guess. I will look at the sight though, I would like to see what I was messing up on. I watched the video and I basically did everything that was on that video, but my flares did not hold up. Sometimes you just need to stop wasting so much time on one aspect of your project and move on to the next. I spent 2 days practicing making flares and I couldn't get 2 of them to look the same. Brakes are one area I don't want to second guess anything. Thanks

You will be VERY happy with the brakes. This kit is very well thought out and the parts are all top quality-down to the hardware. The biggest hassle with this installation(for me) has been the proportioing valve. You are going from metric to a SAE , which has taken some work and research.

Here are some pics of my routing of the proportioning valve.

The tool was brand new-never loaned out before. I think I will take the line out to try the flare-I need to get it right. I will have a few extra of the metric fittings if you need one.

Dave, I bought the brake line kit from ebay and they had the proper metric fittings. The lines are copper with a coating, they are very mallable. The fitting I am putting on are standard to the proportioning valve-3-8/24 I believe, according to the instructions on the valve.I connected the proportioning valve to the hyrdaulic brake valve with 1/8 pipe. I could of bought an adapter fitting to go from my metric to the standard, but I didn't have the right length line anyway, so if I'm going to cut, I might as well put on the right fitting. I left the tee because Dave didn't specify to remove it.

Dave, I will take some pics Sunday, but I put the proportioning valve and the hydraulic brake along the console on the passenger side like Dave shows on his AZC site. It's a PITA to plumb and took me a long time to run it thru the body, that is why I am concerned about getting these flares correct since i have the lines bent already. I probably dumped a cup full of brake fluid on my floor with my first attempt bleeding my brakes since my flares sucked so bad. Of course I didn't notice right away where the fluid was going:oops:

Yes the adapter has a step and the instructions showed having the top of the tube even with the first step. It also said to press the adapter down and stop just before it reaches the clamp. Another words, don't screw it down until it bottoms on the clamp. What would be considered enough sealing area? The lines I bought had probably 30% more then what I could fabricate. Sorry no pics-I'm out of town.

Thanks Jon, the instructions just had an arrow pointing towards the top of the tube and said chamfer. You couldn't determine if the arrow was pointing to the inside or outside.

What determines the amount of sealing surface area? It seems that the flares I made had less sealing area then the lines I bought . So you chamfered both ID and OD -hmmmm When I get back in town I will try all this advice before I throw in the towel-thanks

You can see the off-center flare looking down the end of the tube. So are you saying that they do come out off centered sometimes?

The instructions that came with the tool said to tighten the wing nut closest to the line first then tighten the other nut. Honestly, I don't know if I checked for them being parallel(exactly), this maybe where I am screwing up. Does your tool require a chamfer on the end of the cut? Is your adapter machined flat around the stem part, or does it have a taper? It is exceptionally hard to keep the adapter perfectly perpindicular to the line making the first flare. I was actually concerned that the stem part was not the exact diameter of the line-there seems to be too much slop which exacerbates the situation of keeping the press perpindicular. This really seems to be an art, now I know why other guys have posted of problems.

Basically I did the same thing as you. My biggest problem is getting the first adapter to sit square on the tube to get that an even squish. My brake tool instructions showed putting a chamfer on the end of the tube before using the adapter. I am assuming the chamfer is on the outside of the tube since the adapter is machined in an inverted 45 around the stem. The pipe cutter leaves a bit of an angle on the end but the adapter does not sit solidly on the end of the brake line. I have practiced about 30-40 times to make a good flare, but I am lucky to get 1 out of 25 that look symetrical. I might have to just take it down the road, I'm about done f---in with it.

I am installing all new brake lines in my car along with my wildwood set up from AZC. I bought a brake line kit off of ebay that had the proper ends for our cars, but I need to cut and flare some ends for my proportioning valve. I only have to make 2 ends, but I am having no luck. I am using the autozone(probably harbor frieght version) free tool and I can't seem to make a good looking flare. The instructions with the tool are vague at best. The instructions say to chamfer the end after you cut the length, but it seems that my tubing cutter already does that. I imagine the chamfer is to allow the tool to seat squarely against the line so it squishes flat and square. Then you follow with the tool to make the 45 flare. The problem for me seems that the flare doesn't come out centered in the line , maybe because the it didn't get squished squarely on the first step. It also seems the instructions are vague about how much line sticks out of the tool clamping device before you get started. I would love to hear any advice on this if anyone wants to give some.

Sorry, can't give any reports of the engine running since I haven't started it yet. The car is apart for paint and I didn't want to assemble it just to start the motor. Most of the things done on this motor are right out of "how to modify your datsun engine" book. The bigger valves will not clear the block so you need to clearance the side of the bores , plus give room for breathing. I put the biggest valves I could fit in the head which brought my chamber size down to about 41.5, so the clearances will also help reduce compression by reducing the chamber size slightly. If you saw the head chambers I also unshrouded as much as I could. Basically you are notching the bore like they did on the l26 with the bigger valves. It should run strong--if I ever get this thing done.

Rossman, when I ever get my laptop back from the shop:mad: I post some pics of how my block (l24) was notched for my bigger valves on my early e-88 head. I don't have exact instructions on how too, but I know the machinist used the stock gasket as the reference to transfer marks. Good luck! I just remembered that I have the pics posted on CCZC. Just look up the photos under Madkaw. I have pics of both the head and the block if that will help you.