TONY C

Does anyone know how to get the axle out of the outer F150 cv joint? I have tried everything. I ended up cutting the shaft down so that I can remove the cv balls and cages but even with a 12 ton press I can not get the axle out of the inner spider and i do not see a clip. Thanks for some help!

Actually ended up moving it back and up about .5" Machined a halo support and front mounts to match the trans angle. Now I am working on figuring CV's and outer bolt on bearings. I wish photobucket didn't screw everyone so I could post pics...

Well I made the front mounts similar to MM pieces using pics of they're mounts as reference. Now I might have made them 1/2" shorter at most. But that still puts they're kit center line ahead. I can totally remake the mounts/ Or make the rear mount 1st and then make the fronts. But the diff just seems to fit easily where I put it. And the rear of the diff once a cover and mount is added it will hit the rear cross member. causing the diff to need to be lower in the rear. As I have it sitting the diff is perfectly level and square to the car. And the front yolk just barely clears the front cross member. Looks like the MM kit makes you cut a big area out of the front cross member/lca mounts to clear the drive shaft.? I guess I just need a bunch of pics of an 8.8 mounted on an S30 to see placement better.

Center line is approximately 1.75" ahead Have not began to figure axles but they will be cv. Looks like the shafts will be 10-12" long plus the width of the cv's

8.8 center line mounted forward of wheel bearing centerline. Ideas, Concerns All Appreciated.

1st for everything. In my 12+ years on this forum I have met and talked to so many Awesome Z car enthusiasts. Been helped and helped many more. This has almost always been a Great community with endless info. I just put newzed on my ignore/block list. Your condescending banter and name calling is Not what a 57 year old Moderator is supposed to be doing. Your a Jerk NewZed. But I see that at your age we won't have to put up with your crap much longer. And Yes I left you negative feedback. Another 1st for me. Enough poor commenting and making others not like you and I am sure that a Real mod will entertain getting rid of you all together. So Long Jerk!

I don't post here much these dayz. I'm still interested in getting one from exlifesaver despite the negative left coast comments... Why? Because he has done the leg work to make it happen with Proven results froma reputable builder and ultimately Happy Customers. And seriously. Who doesn't like to save some coin? Plus who wants to buy some Cheap china garbage that you will have to rework just to have some false sense of security that the Bomb will not drop.? No thanks! Might be good enough for you but I am Way to rowdy behind the wheel to need that on my head!. So far from what I have read the Only sour puss about the whole thing is the Only person here that has NO interest in buying one from Any vender in the 1st place. Because, and I quote. 1976 280Z, essentially original except for a few later model parts. Exlifesaver. Hit me with the numbers shipped to 37803. Yes that is Dragon Country. So you know I will be Slaying the Beast with it! And Mom. No need to comment on this any longer. We get it. But We grew up long ago and do Not need your Mommy nurturing Any Longer. Thanks

PM Sent. Ready to do this.

Is this the correct setup? or is there something better? http://www.ebay.com/itm/XTD-STAGE-4-CLUTCH-CHROME-MOLY-FLYWHEEL-KIT-SKYLINE-RB20DET-RB25DET-TURBO-/191876879226?hash=item2cacc0d37a:m:mnu8kMKE9xj4dEBT-mHDbKg&vxp=mtr Also If someone has a t5 bellhousing for sale I need one. Got several trans but no bells. Thanks!

Someone is a Lucky Dog to get on the first list as I had to regretfully remove myself from it for now. I:m so Stoked you made this and I Will be a future customer if plans exist.

OK. So thanks to all the replies and help. We tested everything and all checks out good as per the FSM. At the end of the test it says if all test are good replace the tpi. Boom! Runs like a champ. Thanks for the help.

Well I pulled it apart to fix the battery size hole. haha.. Basically redid the entire engine bay. motor is back in now. But you know how you take things too far sometimes? Well I decided I do not want Anything bolted back to the inner fenders. Except the coil. None of the relays, fuse links, mounting metal, voltage reg, battery tray up front. None. Nada, Gone, Deleted, Bye Bye. So wen I re routed the wires I routed it all to the passenger floor. All real tidy

Gotcha and it could be. Wires around where they enter the dizzy are kindof brittle. I"ll test it up and report back.

I may go HEI. looks very easy. Will I need to get a single pickup distributor? Or can I just use 1 pickup in mine and leave the other unused? Since I'm on 240 carbs all efi stuff is gone. ALL. Everything. No EFI None. No relay. No wires. NONE. LOL..

It seems to me by reading the diagram the White wire to ign unit I removed would be a ground connecting through the water temp switch and getting ground from an egr cut switch. So if it's the case When EGR cut is engaged a ground at the ign unit where white wire is used to be would retard timing.?