TONY C

aeromotive fi regs do have a boost/vac reference port on them as with most efi regs. And from what i have read, asked and learned it does need to be there and connected. A reg with no ref is called a dead head reg and not used for efi. I have experimented with a SARD efi reg and an Aeromotive efi reg and although the Sard seemed fine the Aeromotive seems better more constant. And the SARD makes a funny sound on the first start of the day. For efi you will need a return style reg. meaning that a hose goes form the reg back to the tank to return unneeded fuel. But a stock efi reg will work fine. tc.

I am only running 1 pump on the car at a time. not 2. I keep thinking a hose might be sucking shut too. but, all but 3-5" is pushing psi not sucking psi. I'm with you on the stupid simple part. Seems like a sucked hose would be good for a minute or 2 if the car was shut off and then restarted allowing it to regain it's shape but this yields the same results. Seems like heat is an issue. Last night with the motor not running, I jumped power to the pump for 1 hour. pushing 55lbs psi. held constant psi and no problems. Then ran the car. About 20 - 30 mins drive time and the prob comes back. I did this to see if it could be a hose sucking shut or if the pump running for a pieriod of time before the car was running would shorten the time before error, but it didn't. Whatever it is, IT will kill me before I give up. thanks for the ideas fellas. Keep them coming. I will try all of them. tc.

I have the stock pump installed right now and the aeromotive reg but all the hoses have been changed so hooking up the stock reg is a pain. I might have to go get some fuel hose and rerun everything just to test. I have ran out of ideas. tc.

charged the battery all night, wasn't low but anyway. hot wired positive and neg of pump straight to the battery. hooked up a volt meter to pump and drove. no change in volts. but the pump sounds different when the problem occures. more drone noise and when cold it is almost silient. I am still going crazy on it. PLEASE HELP. tc.

the lines are routed in the stock local. using most of the oe return line except under the hood. conection is made under the car on pass side. the feed line comes off the tank to a 90 -6an to the pump mounted in stock local. 90 off the pump to -6an this hose is the high psi kind of hose from a hydrolic shop that just pushes on to the fittings, no clamps or nothing. up to the a connect at the same place as the return and changes to ss braided, to filter to front of the rail, routed accross the top of the intake runners, out of rail 12" -6 to reg and then return. Could the fuel be getting hot enough as it crosses over the runners and through the rail and back to the reg to make the reg open completely causing full return? Doesn't seem likely since everything is in almost the stock local. Also seems like fuel temps should not effect psi. I am so puzzled on this. I have checked everything 10 times but haven't found the prob. I thought that maybe there is a wad of crap at the fuel feed outlet in the tank so i removed the hose after the problem occured. plenty of fuel. hook it back up and drive. still there. pump never seems hot and never drops voltage. I thought that maybe 1 of the lines was sucking shut but the only "sucking" line is 3" long from the tank to the pump and it is straight to a 90 fitting. So for the sake of finding the prob I removed it and the 90 and hooked it like the factory hose w/ clamps. no change. Could it be that the vac feed line to the reg is hooked to the wrong place or too long or that I am also taping it to my vac/boost gauge. It is connected to the same place the factory connects the reg. But to rule that out I have ran the reg with no vac connected and the hose plugged and still no luck. Still seems temp related. or a supply hose sucking shut or ramble ramble.... my brain hurts on this 1

ok, just went for a ride with a digital volt meter hooked to the pump. holding 13.09 - 13 volts all the time even when the issues arise. Have not checked the flow but when 2 pumps are doing the same thing.? However it seems that the stock pump actually deals with the problem better than the walbro, but only slightly. Checked for kinks or excessive bends in the hoses/lines. all looks good. no sharp bends or potential areas. Doesn't take as long for the prob to occure if the car has been warmed or driven earilier. Still wondering if a temp issue is at hand but what could it be effecting to cause this?

WELL, I went for a ride with the gas cap removed an extra ground wire from the battery to the fp, Still no change. also I have an lc1 o2 sensor. the car is Definately cutting fuel. o2 readings are great till the prob occures then lean real bad, let off the throttle, regains psi. get out and check the psi gauge and it reads 35psi instead of the initial setting of 40psi. Rev and hold the motor and the gauge rises to 40 psi and then quickly falls to 0. What Gives??? same situation with 2 different pumps, 2 regulators, hot wired or not, braided all the way around, checked for voltage drops to pump. What am I overlooking? Is it posible that the regulator is getting too hot? I have it mounted high on the fire wall next to the bettery box, maybe 12" of hose connecting it to the rail. I am running the boost/vac refference to it even though I am not using my turbo setup right now. Should I be running that? I also thought it was weird that the psi raises when throttle is blipped even when running well. And I thought that was only supposed to happen under boost. Not sure though. Could it be the charging system? Have not had any prior problems. Car starts every time and gauge always reads great. Battery is in the rear with all 2ot welding wire and a Moroso disconnect switch on the hot side. ground wire all the way to the starter to battery and from the battery to the chassis, all 2ot. Thanks for any input. tc.

I did clean out the filter. all was good. very little to no dirt. the fuel gauge is on the JSK rail so no lines to kink. Didn't think about the vent but I am running a stock tank w/ all stock parts. I will try the filler cap but I suspect the same. Thanks for the info. tc. checked both pumps and both seem to be free of debris.

HELLO GUYS. I've been having a fuel issue. no turbo. I am running EDIS, MSII. MS relay box, 14 gauge power and 2 grounds to pump, JSK fuel rail, supra 440 injectors w/ factory drop resisters, -6 braided lines all the way round trip, A1 70 micron filter, walbro 255 pump, sard regulator. Out of the tank to the pump, to the filter, to rail, to reg, back to tank. Car runs GREAT when cold and for the first 30 minutes of run time. Then fuel preasure starts to drop off drastically. Hot wired the pump straight to the battery, with a fuse of corse. same prob. Got to thinking that the sard was junk so I got an aeromotive reg. Same prob. Swapped the Walbro for the stocker, Same prob. Hot wired the pump to the bat. SAME PROB. I drained and cleaned the tank, blew out all lines. All was clean. SAME PROB. when hot, PSI gauge shows all is good at idle. Blip the throttle and psi increases slightly and then psi falls to "0" and then picks up again. Let the car cool down for 30 min or so and go again. ANY IDEAS WOULD BE GREAT. Thanks. TC.

that's what I thought. should the boost ref be hooked up with msII though?

THAT's GONNA LOOK GREAT. You gotta post final installed pics.

I am having the same issues . running msII. walbro 255lph sard regulator 6an lines all the way. only diff mine is after 30-45 minutes of driving. hooked up a gauge and bingo. no fp around 4k. SARD fpr's must be junk.?????? anyone.. hook up a gauge. not to steal a thread. but anyone have regulator suggestions.

check out these wheels I found on e-bay. item # 320090956888 Not sure how to post a link so if someone wants too be my guest. $250 seems like a great deal. they are +1mm offset I talked to the guy and he said they have 25 sets. Maybe some of you guys without fender flares can use a set. Unfortunately I can't. thought I would pass it along peace. tc.

without spacers the rears will sit way under the car and the fronts will not clear because of the back spacing. 1/2" spacers should do it. check out e-bay. item # 320090956888 $250 good deal. peace tc.

damn wireing gremlins! SPEND 40 HRS MAKING A BEAUTIFUL WIRE HARNESS AND OVERLOOK 1 CONNECTION AND GUESS WHAT. Fixed it.

worse case you could get a 2mm head gasket from nissan. if that is not enough then get 2. 2mm gaskets and take them apart and use the pieces you need to get what you want. a little pricey but will work.

hi guys. I am sure this has been posted before but here goes. MS gauge always reads 10.1 afr. I have configured my lc1 for 14.7 afr 0.v @.5 lambda and 5.v @1.5 lambda. configured MTune. 2.9 to to same, turned on settings, and calibrated to same but the gauge on mt still reads 10.1. if I configure to lc1 defaults the gauge reads 7. something but still does not move. I have an afr gauge calibrated to the lc1 anolog 2 out and it seems to work fine. what am I doing wrong? thanks for rehashing old stuff. tc.

that worked great. thanks Warren. peace. tc.

hello guys. I searched around but could not find exact info. I have an lc1 wideband and an autometer o2 gauge. I have hooked up the lc1 to the gauge and need to know what values to configure the lc1 output. does anyone have exact values I can use? thanks tc.

The fade looks like you ran out of the paint you wanted and grabbed the next can on the shelf. fades have fadded IMO. fades look VERY GENERIC. But hey, if you do it. you can get some of that fade window tint too. Looks equally tacky, and should match perfectly. Go with two tone man. The end result is sooooooo much nicer. Especially on a "Z".

hey, what about an 84 200sx turbo car? the same suspension setup as the zx. maybe a tad lighter. these would make great drag cars. I just happen to have a great body and interior. I am in tennessee. where you? tc.

you should be able to pick up a good 280zx fairly cheap. Why not put the GN setup in the z. you probably have a good knowledge of the motor and already have it on hand. there are a couple guys running that setup on here. check it out. as fast as they are in a tank of a regal the z would fly. also being a v6 would set it back behind the front wheels making for a more neutral handling car. the zx's are not the best handling cars and need all the help they can get. this would also make for better weight transfer than the v8. my $.02 tc.

hey phil. you ever get a tune that you wanna share? tc.

I Like My Boost/vac Gauge For 3 Reasons. 1. Gives You More Accurate Timing On When The Boost Is Going To Come On. Like Approching A Curve At Lower Speeds. 2. When Tuning. Watching Your Speed And Rpms Are Very Broad In Change And Not As Precise.. A Vac Gauge Will Help You Keep A More Even Feel On The Throttle For Constant AND consistant Pulls During Tuning. 3. Knowing The Vaccuum A Certain Engine Pulls, Will Help To Figure Out What Spring Is Needed In The Bov.

save your money and get an e-bay knock off. they are the same for $15-$20. you can clean and reoil them with a k&n kit for $10. or just buy another for $15. my $.02 tc.