TONY C

driving style is key. a car with understeer can become a car with oversteer with a simple driver change. a harder set of rear tires might put you where you want to be. try letting off the throttle a split sec sooner and throttle it a bit harder for a sec after. depending what kind of driving [like drifting] you got the clutch pedal "pump" that works great too. just don't try that 1 on public streets. if you got some front camber platesthat woould be great too but with stock springs things get tight in the strut tower. a huge turbo or v8 helps understeer. lol

diito on the compressor surge. maybe the spring on the bov is too tight.?

used to lower the compression ratio.. why? for big turbo or supercharger setups or a nitrus motor.

do a set up like a dirt track car with a jamb nut on the inner tie rod a swedge tube another jamb a heim joint in place of the tie rod end a couple spacers and a nut bolt setup to go through the steering nuckle. check out summit racing and see the mustang bump stop tie rod replacement kit. part #cee-2418 might even swap right over. tc.

if you get a new fuel rail you will also need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator fpr. and a fuel psi gauge. also if you are going to upgrade later there are only a couple injectors that use hoses on the top of them. most use "o" ring seals. depending on how much upgrades you are planning will dictate what injectors and what fuel rail to buy. if you plan on running 7-8 lbs of boost than 280zx turbo injectors will be fine on a stock type rail replacement. but if you want more later you will need a new rail and injectors. personally I would get a rail for o ring and a set of injectors like supra non turbo, that flow the same as stock and if you turbo later go up to the 440 cc supra injectors. a fuel rail will not make more hp. only adds the potential for more. bigger injectors will only drown the motor unless many other things are modded. like turbo, ecu, fuel psi. etc. hope some of this helps tc.

just got off the phone with motorsports. they have a couple 2mm gaskets left. no 1 mm. i asked if they are going to get more and the answer was probably not. but who knows. cost is $150 and $10 shipping. tax if you live in tennessee. part # 11044-91mm2 for the 2mm. if your not running 15lb's or more than the 2mm is not for you. hope this helps someone. tc.

are those diamond wheels? they look mean. like the side pipes too. tc.

I think David Copperfield bought 1 about 2 years ago or so. went for something like $250,000 . so if this 1 goes for $150 as projected than it's a deal. tc.

i have 3 of these gaskets. 2 of them i am still using and 1 of those has been used 4 times that i know of. 3 of those times by me. just soak it in laquer thinner or acetone. clean it the best you can and they're good. i have had a few guys pm me . so to let you all know. the 1 i am willing to part with has been used for less than 100 miles and was only removed fer a 2mm for boost reasons. it is perfect. but not new. unless an engine grenaded i don't think they can be hurt. might be able to get a new 1 from nissan motorsports phone # 888 833 3225. last time i got 1. the 1 i will part with. 1mm. $150 +tax cause i am in state. i don't have the part # handy but you can do a search or just call they know what it is. tc. oh yeah, if i was an hks rep and wanted to sell a gasket i would tell you not to reuse it too. just buy another 1. my sales are low this month anyway.

i bought a Ridged brand from Home Depot. adjustable speeds, adjustable handles, extra long cord with lit end, velcro loop pad and a 3 year warranty for $90. very well made tool. I will buy more ridged tools because of this 1. .02$ tc.

ouch! is the rad still holdin h2o? you could still run the oe water pump with no fan and use an electric fan. those electric pumps are espensive. as for the wastegate, your kindof stuck with the stock set up unless you get an external unit and that will require you to make a new down pipe and adapt to the exhaust manifold somehow. it will need exhaust flow from before the turbo. not cheap. lots of fab work. but if you end up doin it an hks or tial are the only brands to consider. tc.

yeah it's just high temp paint. now that i have ran it for a while it's white. but hey, looks good in the pic. tc.

maybe your car is heating just the gauge or sending unit is bad. get a mechanical gauge, run the car for a while, release the air in the system and then remove the cap. put the temp probe in the rad and observe. if the engine truely is cold then your thermostat has to be bad. if it is getting warm but not hot enough on a cold day you could always put a piece of cardboard in front of the rad, not all the way just enough to stop the flow of cold air through it. also check your fan clutch. is it disengaging? could be causing the fan to cool all the time. tc.

I have a 1mm nissan metal head gasket i could sell you. probably an hks or cometic but came from nissan dealer with nissan part #. tc.

fyi there is a pallnet on e-bay for $50

NICE. are you gonna fiberglass it? looks like it will ROCK!

I bought a duel drive bov blitz style and a huge fmic from ss auto chrome. the intercooler has "greddy" embossed into it so I know it is good. was real inexpensive. The bov was just CHEAP! as soon as it opened the first time it would not seal up again. the rubber or viton seal was junk. the rest of it was billet. looked nice but is CRAP. A friend has an exhaust manifold for a 240sx. top mount, looks well made but will not fit the car unless YOU don't need a brake master cylinder.? sometimes you get what you pay for and sometimes you get lucky. My tial bov and gate work flawlessly. tc.

mine is towards the fire wall. pics to post.

i am running this same spacer /adaptor. ended up taking it to a welder and having it welded to the exhaust manifold. this is the only way I could make it work without reinventing the part. Works great! No steering clearance issues. I am running a garrett t3/t4. had to rotate the center slightly so the stock nissan drain pipe would clear the steering shaft. Sits a bit close to the brake proportion valve so I made a turbo shield from a ss pot to avoid brake fade. An extension pipe for clearance issues has to be made to attach the wastegate [TIAL] in my case. puts the waste gate in the perfect spot to plumb it into the exhaust. I will try to post a pic. tc.

sweet project. I have a 200sx turbo myself. very cool 80's car. probably gonna drift it when done. not a huge following like the 240sx. dareb to be different. keep us updated. tc.

even with a stock swap you still have a bov.? well really it is a pop off valve. about 2" round 1.5" valve screwed in the top of the intake. it has a rubber diaphram in it and maybe it is bad. when you install a bov you need to remove this pop off and plug the hole. you can get a plug in the galvanize pipe plug section at the hardware store. since you are running stock boost you could go ahead and plug it now. a cheap bov from e-bay works fine , got mine for $1.25. just the spring is too stiff. just cut it. i have a cheap 1 and replaced it with a TIAL bov. the tial looks way nicer but seems to work the same and other than the sound I have experianced no other diffs. also rust build up around the waste gate actuator rod could be holding the wastegate open. PB BLASTER works great. or a bad diaphram in the actuator. as for the radiator, check the fan itself. maybe cracks at bottom of the blades [very common]. could be flexing way too much and the next thing that will happen is that it will leave town and take the rad, shroud, and hood with it. learned from experience. hope some of this helps. tc.

AWESOME! Phil. I would like to see the tune when your done too. I popped all 6 pistons last round. new motor is together but I don't want to start it till I get a better starting point. tc.

I feel your pain too Tim. after being very meticulious with every aspect of the ms-2 build and install, thats right I built my own, I had to send my unit to DIY for troubleshooting. Guess what.... I did nothing wrong accept not send it to them sooner. My ms-2 daughter board had some how taken a dump before ever being used.. go figure. .. Anyway the put a new 1 in and all is good. Accept now my new 200 mile motor has 6 broken pistons.. A detonation problem??? I feel you BRO!! As far as the EDIS is concerned.. I did it and am very glad I did. Got rid of a bunch of old junk. Timing is adjustable from the laptop. and if you want lots of spark it can't be beat. Now if I could figure out how to provide an adequate timing map so these new pistons do not meat the same demize as the last.. Anyway,, don't give up! That's the price we pay for hot rodding...

I am running the exact spacer with a t3/t4 and a tial 38mm. plumbed it back into the down pipe. works great, and also solved the problem of the compressor housing touching the engine block.

YEAH, IT'S SAVING EVERYTHING. I THINK YOU ARE RIGHT. SOMETHING IS NOT GOOD ON THE BOARD. IT WORKED,(just remembered) AND WHEN I WAS DOING FINAL WIRING A STRAY 12V WIRE ARCED THE MS CASE. HASN'T WORKED SINCE. I'LL CHECK ALL THE PARTS AND POST MY FINDINGS. DOES ANYONE HAVE A SUGGESTION OF WHAT AREA TO LOOK AND TEST FOR INJECTOR PROBS?