TONY C

I have the solid front diff mount and loud exhaust. can't hear anything different except no more clunk when shifting, but my old mount was like bubble gum from a pinion leak. Havn't noticed any cracking or problems and I am very hard on it. But now, I am wondering where to get a set of solid mustache bar mounts? anyone? peace

just wondering. where do you intend to mount this? on what car. reason I ask is that if it is for a "Z" maybe we could get a few others interested.

when you first power the msq all 3 led will flash very slightly 1 time. the fuel pump will also pump momentarilly until psi is reached. then when you crank the car and get a tach or rpm signal then the pump will kick back on and off again as needed. if you have no tach or rpm signal while cranking than check the cranking rpm settings on megatune. set it to like 250 rpm. also check your ignition setup choices in megatune. if that does not work then check all your wireing from the coil and dizzy to the msq. good luck. peace

looks great! is it structurally ok? has anyone got a 2nd gen rx7 sunroof installed. I am really thinking of doin it.

all of those are in line external fuel pumps. the airtex I have used b4. works great and is quiet. try parts america.com about $100 you could also get a walbro 225 if you intend to go high performance in the future. good for 500 + hp but they are noisy. peace

what about a sunroof and roof section from a 2nd gen rx7. it would be alot of work cutting and welding but they look to be the same curvature and they slide back, easy to come by. got an entire roof for free... anyone seen it done?

you need to shield just those 2 wires. also make sure that your shielding doesn't touch a ground, causes problems as well. also keep them away from all other wires, like plug wires, injector wires, fan relays and switches, etc. tc.

:rockon:ROCK OUT WITH YOUR C*CK OUT!

i believe the turbo ecu has a different timing map and fuel curve. not sure about performance but it would probably be off. if you can not afford an intercooler and all, you could alcohol/water inject for cheap or free. just a thought. I definately would not boost at that cr. without an intercooler or alcohol or BOTH. if you do go intercooler, I got mine from ss autochrome for like 145 shipped. got it and it has GREDDY stamped on it in big letters. don't get any of their bov's though. btw. i have an extra na computer or 2. could send you 1 for $15. just a thought.

use a paper clip. straighten it out. look into the pin from the connection side, not the wire side. on the pin the part that looks thickest, insert the clip between the pin and plastic housing. push in all the way in. Now hold the connector and pull the wire out. after you get 1 out. inspect the pin. look for a little tab, probably bent up by now, and check out how it works. after that they are easy. hope this helped. tc.

I have had tail light seals and hatch seals cause this on a few cars. could also be your fuel tank vent line. if your sure you had fuel on top of the injectors you should inspect all the fuel lines and make sure there are no leaks. I have had 2 buddys burn their cars down because of the unseen leak. tc.

check and make sure the coil wire is as far away from the tps and tps wiring as posible. Having it close at all within 4-5 inches will cause crazy havoc. tc.

I'm sorry to hear about your so called "friend". I personally would not worry about burning the bridge. Finding someone to STEAL your money or tires is not hard to find anywhere. A REAL friend is. Cut your losses while that is all he is into you for. Heck, it sounds like you got better friends in this forum than this guy. Oh yeah, keep the stand. Your girl payed for it anyway. Remember. there is no honor among thieves. And you have been robbed. tc. I also say post his phone # and we will all call him out on it. I hate people that take advantage of others good nature.

pics would be great. I have an msa bar but I will build 1 like you have if I can get some good pics to rob from. tc.

NICE! with the gussets welded in that will be an awesome part. How are you attaching it to the firewall? tc.

I did what you are talking about when I first went MSII. cut off the end of the harness and connected them to the db37 connector. I had NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS. Injector clips misfired the injectors. Poor connections everywhere. I got pissed 1 day and broke out the wire cutters and cut the harness in half. Now I gotta fix it. I oredred a bunch of stuff. weather pac connectors, injector clips all new wire and terminals. heat shrink tubing by the mile and soldered every crimp connector. Put all of it in fiberglass expandable wire sheith. Man does it look impressive and clean. I get. You really made the wire harness? looks factory. Everything works excellent and was worth all the work. Old wires and connectoers mean bad connections and stressed wires. my $.02 worth. tc.

SUCCESS!!!! Painted and reinstalled. Blew out all the lines, Replaced the vents. Filled it with gas and drove. I drove it hard for 20 miles. All is well. Not crazy about being able to see the sump and fuel line from the back but function over form for now. I was looking at an RCI aluminum 17 gal fuel tank. Can't remember the part # but it is the only lay down 17 gal they sell. Looks like it could be easily installed in the z. Anyone know if it has been done with this tank? Anyway. the sock screen must have been the problem. too bad there is no way to replace it or something. Washing the tank and blowing through it did no good. Thanks for all the help from all the Hybrid members. Best brothers from a different mother I ever had. tc.

Hello fellas, I'm back. well I fabbed a sump box, welded in 2 -8an fiffings in it and welded it to the bottom of the tank, filled it with water to find the leaks and attended to those. washed it out for a couple hours while dragging a magnet to the inside. rinsed it out with a couple quarts of M.E.K. and blew compressed air in it for a while. Then I poured in a quart of RED KOTE by damon products. It's like a red candy syrup that is the most VILE, head busten, buzz inducing stuff I have ever used. WOW. even using it outside is like, WOW! Well if it works as good as it smells bad, any and all potential for leaks will be non existant. I used a metal funnel when i poured it in and let it dry on the funnel. No way could it be scraped off and even my wire brush on an angle grinder had a rough time with it. So I have to let it cure for 24 and paint it all up. Can't go without paint. I will put it back tomorrow. While I was at it I lowered my pump as much as the bracket allows. I am sure this will help because the walbro is more of a pusher pump. I'll let you guys know what happens tomorrow. Keepin my toes crossed. tc.

no such thing as a useless ramble here. I will take all I can get. when I removed the tank today I noticed that the vent hoses were looking, well, 32 years old. So I plan on replacing them as well. viperredls1z. Drive that thing like you stole it and let us know what happens. Sounds like you got it. Gives me hope. After removing the tank I think I might of had an issue with crap in the tank. Since I drove it with the gas cap off, that should have ruled out the vent hoses.? I am running my injectors alternating. When I first got the car running {a year ago} I had them simultanious and could notice the psi drop and switched to alternating. Oh yeah! just remembered. about a week before the prob. I had an unrelated issue and had to have the car pulled backwards with a chain. Well I hooked to the lower control arm and when the slack was taken up in the chain {too fast} the tank took a hard blow. not enough to dent it but still pretty hard. Now that I think about it. That probably knocked some crap loose. How would I go about cleaning the pump out if something is in it? Not really a way to back flush it is there? I would guess that there is not anything stuck in it because the prob would be there all the time.? Man I hope this works. Chasing ghosts is wearing me out. tc.

slow old car. I havn't figured out how to datalog yet. dummy. the code is 29 or.29? something like that. I have noticed that even when the car is running good when I am in the power and have the pedal to the mat i will get a miss fire, or a slight pop. only 1 per 10 - 15 secs. Might be because the map is rich right now and edis fires 2 plugs at a time. but I am interested to hear your ideas more. tc.

Undercover Dumb A**!

DRAGON COUNTRY, Maryville Tennessee. No better place on earth. tc.

I thought about the pump height too but it does it with a full tank also. I didn't increase the return line size or fittings at the tank. Didn't think it was necessary. So today I didn't bother to drive it. Instead, I made myself a rear sump box. Drained and removed the tank. All the gas was clean. Cut a big a** hole in the tank. Had the tank full of water and as soon as the zizz wheel broke through. BOOM! didn't hurt anything, or me. thank GOD. Cut out the spot for the sump and even though I have cleaned the tank a couple of times there was a fine film if rust on the entire inside. Washed and cleaned it real good. No rust or debris on the inside. First thing in the morning I am going to get some fittings and weld the box to the tank. This is something I wanted to do anyway. Driving the Dragon regurlarly always makes me wonder about pump cavitation. I'll keep you guys posted tomorrow on what goes on. thanks for all the great help. tc.

ok I Reinstalled the walbro, set psi to 40 static at idle, went for a ride. got home psi was at 30-35 jumping and the pump was playing a tune to beat the band. sounded normal when I left but my ears hurt now. but it will hold psi for a while after shut down hot or cold. the stocker will not hold when hot. The filter is after the pump. just like stock. I wanted to put 1 in front of the pump but with the pump in the stock local there is no room. while the pump was singing, I jacked the car up and checked the lines. no issues that I can see, or feel. pinch the return and the psi does not change. like none is returning. I have been thinking of welding a rear sump on the tank maybe now would be a good time. maybe something is clogging the line? I don't think so because I have cleaned it out a couple times recently, but if I cut a huge hole in it for the sump I can get it spotless for sure. Just not fan of welding on a fuel tank because of leaks or BOOM! oh yeah. I hot wired both pumps and fed the fuel line to a 5 gal gas can. Both pumps filled the can in under 10 mins. Not sure what they are supposed to flow and don't have a way to measure it anyway but they both are pumping great when cold anyway. And both are singing like he** after the ride. more testing tomorrow. Thanks for all the help. tc.

Yeah, I wired both sides. Pinch the return and no change. Blew through the lines again, hot wired,and went for a ride. problem starts I come home. the pump is making aweful noises, growling. Gauge shows no psi. I leave the pump wired moter off. still no psi. So while pump is wired i removed the hose feed line from tank to pump. pump still growles and sings bad. Fuel pours out of tank fine. Hook up the hose and still no psi. disconnect power to pump momentarily, after I reconnect, psi jumps to 25lbs and then drops to 0. check volts all is good but no psi. pump feels hot. let it cool for 5. hook it up psi builds then noises from pump and no psi. Think both pumps have gone bad? the stocker is about 3000 miles old and the walbro is maybe 500. I have run the tank low several times. Could this have hurt both the pumps in the same way? I am going to reinstall the walbro after dinner and go again. tc. oh yeah, when I turn the pump off the psi in the rail falls to 0 but when the pump/car is cold it will hold 20 psi when turned off. What's up with that?