naviathan

It's been posted a long time ago. I don't think this guy will update the site, if he even finishes the project.

That's fine. The torch typically burns off all the crud.

On a 2.2 board I really don't know off the top of my head. You will want to get new plugs before going at it again. At a minimum clean the plugs really well. I recommend the plug cleaner from harbor freight. Hooks up to an air hose and basically sand blasts the electrodes clean. I have one and it works great.

It might seem operational, but I would reload the firmware just to be sure. I've had my system look fine on the stim, but start acting really weird in the car. Check your plugs. Are they lean or rich?

The jumpers are typically wire, solid core, roughly 18-22 AWG I think. Here's the pertinent section on getting your 2.2 ready for a VR input: VR input Sensor wiring for a V2.2 PCB V2.2 PCB ONLY DigiKey part numbers: 300R resistor = 330QBK-ND 18K resistor = 18KQBK-ND 39K resistor = 39KQBK-ND 4K7 resistor = 4.7KQBK-ND 1M resistor = 1MQBK-ND 0.01uF Cap = P3103-ND 0.33uF Cap = P10973-ND 330pF Cap = PS1331J-ND 0.1uF Cap = P10967-ND LM1815N = LM1815N-ND Farnell part numbers: 300R resistor = 543-251 18K resistor = 543-688 39K resistor = 543-767 4K7 resistor = 543-548 1M resistor = 544-103 0.01uF Cap = 389-0995 0.33uF Cap = 389-1033 330pF Cap = 867-950 0.1uF Cap = 389-1010 LM1815N = 949-3913 Yeah there's a bit of soldering involved either way, but that's the nature of the older boards.

Hmmm, first thing I'd try is reloading the firmware. Sometimes that works out the bugs. Next look at your after start enrichments (ASE) and warm up tables.

I ran an 81 N/A ZX dizzy with an MS-II 3.0. Granted it was a 3.0 board, but it should be very similar. It was honestly as simple as locking the mechanical and vacuum advance, removing the ignition module and wiring the MS straight to the VR trigger. I believe it's Green wire to ground and red to pin 26??(don't quote me on the pin, it's been a couple years). So long as the MS is configured for VR trigger you should be good.

I had a tranny do that. Turned out it had blown apart one of the bearings inside. I could put it in any gear so long as it didn't move. Once I was moving it wouldn't shift.

If soldering is a concern I could do it for you. I'm always game for soldering new things together. Never done a nistune setup, but I build MS2 ECUs easily and I do a bit of surface mount soldering and repair work.

I burned one of mine once. Actually cracked the transistor. Same reason too. I had the dwell set too high, then it stopped running and would fire intermittently like the video.

I think I just lost IQ points....

That's better than the alarm systems that shock you.

Awesome, congrats! This is what the forums are here for, helping keep Zs on the road. If you found our services useful or at least entertaining, please make a donation to....wait never mind....

I'd like to give this one a nudge, I like that idea.

Yep, I would say so.

You telling me you can't see that nylon screw head is melted on the VB921? That thing got hot.

My thoughts exactly.

Not sure if it's related, but when I bought my 77 it had no dash or parking lights. When I started tracing wires I found that the previous owner had used the dash light power for a ground on the radio. When the lights are off it reads as a ground so I see where the mistake was made, however, instead of figuring it out the right way he cut wires and rerouted everything to make it a ground for the radio to keep from blowing the fuse. I had to do some wire repair work, but eventually I got it all figured out and wired in properly. So, moral of the story, make sure the radio is grounded into the dash lighting.

Check the terminal inside the cap for excessive wear or corrosion. Check the contact end of the rotor for the same.

If you have spark at the coil, but none (or random) spark at the plugs I would start checking your cap, rotor button, plugs and plug wires. Another thing I just thought of, so you have a chassis ground strap to the engine? On the Z it's typically an extension of the negative battery cable that runs to a starter bolt. I've seen several where that negative cable gets replaced with a non OEM and they fail to connect any kind of chassis ground to the engine causing massive EFI and ignition grounding issues.

I doubt you fried the coil, but I would back that Run Dwell down to 3.0 to be safe when it does finally fire up.

Just humor me here and reflash the firmware and burn the MSQ back to the chip again. I've had a ghost issue before that turned out to be a freak firmware corruption. Reflashing fixed it.

I used 4.0ms Run Dwell once and fried a VB921 to the point that the chip actually cracked.

Did anyone else notice the 6ms Crank Dwell and 4ms Run Dwell settings? Isn't that way too high?

There is a place for eBay and Craigslist ads...They're called ebay.com and craigslist.com... Sorry just had to throw that in there.