naviathan

I guess so, which tells me it wasn't a necessary setup and you should be able to eliminate the temp switch and the egr solenoid then just run straight to the EGR if you so desire to keep the egr connected...I wouldn't.

Teak would work well, it's light and fairly strong. It also forms easily when wet. It's a patience thing. Just bend the curves carefully and make sure you have the right tools for cutting.

That's odd...I've never seen an EGR solenoid before... The vacuum for the solenoid pulls from a ported vacuum on the bottom of the throttle. This only activates vacuum when the throttle is open. When the throttle is open is the only time you want the EGR open. I'm confused now because I've never seen that setup, mine has always been just a vacuum line from the ported throttle port to the EGR directly, nothing in the middle. Must have been a short lived control.

That would be my dream Z. Wish I could find a low vin series 1.

Check the Cold Start valve for leaks, the thermotime switch for continuity after 30 seconds, test the cylinder head temp sensor and check the idle air bypass valve for leaks. You can get a copy of the factory service manual from here: http://carfiche.com Hope that helps. I'm leaning towards the head temp sensor though.

If you're use to driving domestic standards the Datsun clutch will feel very soft. I added another spring to my master cylinder just so I could feel mine easier. As for your electrical system, I agree with everyone, start at the battery. Your description of the blower motor issue tells my your dash harness may have some kind of grounding problem. I've seen pristine Zs with no rust have rust on the dash frame that caused grounding issues with the dash harness. It's rare, but possible. Just one idea to look for. Get a can of contact cleaner and spray down the fusible links as well. Never hurts to clean them occasionally.

Send him an email. Reddat is good about working replacements I'm sure he won't have any problems.

If she's still running after you kill the ignition you have a constant hot wired into your coil from somewhere.

Seen it. That was posted ....well a while ago actually. Hideous Z. Looks like someone got hold of it and thought it was a honda.

Not everything, but close: http://www.zcarparts.com

I don't remember the plug size for the EGR, but for the O2 it will work where it's at, but I moved mine on my pacesetter because it was hitting the O2 on my steering box. I moved down to the top of the collector right where it "Ys" together. You can buy replacement O2 bungs off ebay for cheap. That's where I got mine. I just cut the old one down flush and fill welded it with a MIG. Then I used the largest drill bit I had and drilled the whole for the new bung. I had to bore it out some with a die grinder, but once I got the bung ti sit steady it welded in place nicely. This position seems adequate for getting a good reading of the overall O2. I had problems with the readings jumping around a lot, but that was due to my inadequate fuel and high compression head. Then of course #5 blew out around the water jackets. Anyhow, the point I guess is, it will work where it is because the system is a batch fire and all the cylinders should be getting the same amount of fuel and burn...Should...In a perfect world anyhow. If you want a better reading you can more it, however with the ceramic coating that might be difficult.

I've seen two...And both were stripped out in my yard and sent to the scrap because they were rusted to almost nothing.

Beautiful car!

Mine will be in the garage every chance I get. That is if mommy will let him go long enough...lol

That is pretty cool....

Nice...Do you have a thread on your engine and drive train install? I have a 351W sitting in the garage at home I want to build to drop in my 77. I think I'm going to shift my stroker project to my 81 and get the fun cubes in the 77.

I run into this quandary all the time... This is why my 77 L31 build has taken so long. I have a hard time balancing my DD and my 77. The DD being the car that's always in my mind because I drive it everyday gets a lot of attention where as my 77 which I only see when I'm in the garage gets very little attention. It's hard to make the decision on what you need and what you want. In the end, unless the car won't move without it, it's a want and not a need.

It would help if you posted some spark related settings. Everything you have up is fuel.

That can also be found by searching. Search for "fusible link wire color" and it should pull something.

Awesome, as always TonyD has the information. Thanks!

1mm head gasket and flattops would probably net you somewhere around 11:1 with an E88. That's not ideal for a turbo application to say the least and extremely difficult to tune on pump gas naturally aspirated. I would find another head or attempt to fix that one if you can. Maybe replace the cam towers. Get block off plates from MSA for the oil bar holes and they should work just like the regular cam towers.

I was just thinking the same thing....

Search on Maxi Fuse and you should find lots of information on replacing the old fusible links.

How does that one work?

I have one of these: But it doesn't work so well. I have issues getting the prongs into the spring coils. This one: Looks like it might work better, but I've never seen that design before.