naviathan

Since it's midnight back in the good old USA (East Coast Time) I want to be the first to wish everyone a Merry Christmas!

It might be semi difficult if you've never worked with carpet before, but it is doable.

I have found this to be an issue with some replacement master cylinders from Advance and Auto Zone. My clutch pedal in my 81 sits very high because I had to adjust it all the way up to get the rod to completely disengage the master cylinder. I was thinking about cutting the rod down, but then I worry I won't have enough movement to completely disengage the clutch. I like the Wilwood setups and especially Dragonfly's setup, but I don't know if I want to take the chance on buying the wrong parts and not having everything fit like it should or work properly for that matter being I'm using the stock tranny and hydrolics.

Which way is the porn industry going? They seem to be the deciding factor.

Looks as though it's been there a while. I doubt it's an N2O switch. Have you traced the wires to see where they go? Kind of reminds me of those stupid eBay electric turbos.

Does it look stock? I've never heard of said button. Any pics?

They cost quite a bit more, but the best 7" round replacement setup I've seen is the Xe7 Lightning kits from XSighting Lighting. They usually run around $700 for a set of 2.

That was....WOW....Awesome. And where can I get one of those?

You said this was a 77 dist? Just checking, but was there one or two VR pickups in there? I know some of the Z dists had 2. Have you checked your pots, I believe it's R56 and R52? Don't quote me on those numbers as I haven't messed with my MS in a while. Although if Matt will humor me and send a kit to an APO address I could tinker with one in Iraq...lol Anyhow, check the two VR pots and make sure they are turned completely counter clockwise until the click. It seems the VR pickups are very weak and MS has a hard time if the pots aren't completely open.

Green wire grounded where? Green wire should be connected to your shielding on the pin 24 wire.

I was thinking teflon....

Nismo280zED - When setting up for the VR dizzy you use VROUT not inverted. The inverted you're thinking of is in the software setup from MegaTune. Use the red wire for the trigger and the green wire for the ground. It will make a difference. It seems if they are switched your trigger will be off and you'll get a jumpy timing signal.

I love my DD and although it's still mostly stock it'll be much more when I get it back on the road. N42 head on flat tops with MS-II and I'll be throwing a regrind in there now that my valves are right with a 2mm HG. Suspension is still in good shape, but I'll be eventually pushing the budget a bit to throw in some HPs and Eibach springs. I'm not over comfortable with going coilover yet as the cost is way to prohibitive for me. I'd love to if I could, but not at the moment. I don't even mind doing the weld in kits if I could find them with steel collars instead of the damned aluminum.

Ok I have a question very much in line with this thread. Although I don't boost I do have a high compression (9.5:1) engine that has already been through 2 head gaskets in trying to get it tuned. Now I've been using a timid timing map with my MS, but in playing with it I noticed it ran better (this is on 87 octane) with more advance. Why is that? With lower octane would use a more aggressive timing? I would have though less, but the results were undeniable.

Unfortunately those dents are in some very hard to reach spots. Get a hammer and dolly set to work out the body crease at the bottom then you can try the Dent King kits from advance. For the rear hatch slam panel, without welding, I wouldn't attempt it. Bondo is pointless in that area not to mention a body work sin. Get a small MIG welder and learn.

http://www.brightheadlights-hid.com/5-7in%20Round-Projectors.htm

Looks at the pics... It appears to be an O-ring type injector as opposed to the Barb to hose style for the stock injector.

I fully understand, thank you.

Stuff a rag, plastic bag (my personal favorite because it "POPs") in the number 1 plug hole and turn the engine till it pops, then bring the piston to full up and that's TDC.

If I remember correctly isn't the fuel supply line on the 240 smaller than the one in the 280 which could cause your problem? Although I don't think your readings are far enough off to cause any issues. It could be your AFM needs adjustment.

I'd pay $400 for a good parts car, I fully expect to pay more for a good running project car. That was just insulting for him to try and low ball that far. He'll be back I'm sure. This time with a more reasonable offer.

Usually when I'm looking for a bend I go browse the different heater hoses at NAPA or Advance and find one with the bend I'm looking for that I can just cut off any excess.

Nice! Thanks for the scoop grumpy!

It blew number 5. Coolant was just pouring into the cylinder.

When increasing compression in an engine (ie putting an N42 head on an F54 N/A block) what alterations to the advance and fuel should be made? Of course after I left the states I figured out why my engine was pinging so horribly bad. 87 octane in a F54+N42 setup means big problems. Thankfully I only blew the head gasket...(again) So in preperation for going home to work on it again I'm going to pick up an MLS 2mm head gasket to drop the compression a bit. Once I get fresh fuel in the tank (92) and get ready to crank it back up, what should I be looking at to identify problems with the compression?