naviathan

Maybe it's just the perspective, but the track doesn't look like 1/4 mile. It looks like an 1/8

Yeah it does beat the price of other kits, but I somehow doubt it will compare in quality which is the hole point in the end. Those being flood lights they probably won't do much better than halogen sealed beams at night driving.

$1500 will probably get you up and running, the problem I think you're going to run into though will be finding parts and then when it's up getting everything else up to par. Remember these cars are old and lots of electrical and rubber parts through out the car will need replacing at some point or another.

If it's in good shape it could be worth a decent chunk of change, but with that kind of mileage and considering your locale I wouldn't expect it to be too great. Usually the anniversary editions are only worth a considerable amount of money if they're low mileage, well kept and original.

You driving lights and dash lights all run on the same circuit. More than likely it's just a blown fuse. Check through all the fuses in your fuse box (passengers side kick panel) and I'll bet you'll find the problem. If you replace it and it blows again after turning the key on, someone botched the wiring in the radio...I know I've had two Zs where the PO had wired in a new head unit and had the same thing happen. The dash lights read as a ground when they're not on. Lots of people seem to mistake it as one and run the radio ground to it. When it's powered up and the lights come on the radio tries to ground it and the lights try to push power and overloads.

That's life...It's full of hardships that we all have to overcome. It seems when people are asked to think about their position in life they become disappointed in the things they haven't done and don't consider what they have done. Seems to be human nature to look at the negative side of things before considering the positive. I guess we're all normal here on hybridz.org....Ummmm....yeah that's can't be right...lol

I'd have to say either residual that's just burning off as the exhaust heats up or it could be the headgasket. Let it run for a while and see if it overheats or the smoking stops.

Man, taking a trip back in time here...lol

Hahaha....Sorry, boredom sucks...lol

I would find someone that could properly identify it for you. Try and get an idea of what time period and that will get you a better idea of what it's worth.

Wow...That thing sounds SWEET! One of these days...one of these days... I'm hoping to get my DD going when I get back. Maybe I'll spring for a regrind so it'll sound like that. With a N42 head and a flat top F54 block it's going to need something bigger than stock.

I'm gonna tie my pecker to a tree to a tree I'm gonna tie my....Oh wait... What kind of songs are there to go with, "I'm bored as !@#$%^ in Iraq?

Standard hatch? Where the glass sits isn't really recessed, but with the trim I guess it would look like it is. It's not an aero trick, it's just the way the car was made. vortex generators are still good to have to improve flow with a spoiler.

I think it was a bit over zealous as well. I'm all for power and protection, but the kid is a just a head strong young prick, not a criminal.

Damn....I want one....So why is it the US won't allow those here again???

I'm sure on the head gasket issues you could use an MLS gasket (if it's not already available they can be made) and some ARP studs and that should take care of the issue. I don't know much about this engine, but I know head gaskets...

I remember this thread...Hehe, lots-o-fun. I think my best one by far has to be replacing my head gasket three times. First time, head warped. Second time, the head I used, a PO put shorter valves in that wiped out my cam. Third time, Realized after blowing number 5 seal that the head is an N42 on an F54 N/A block. Compression ratio that would require more work...

Well, put...I love it!

The N42 Block is easy to come by in the states. I have I bought off eBay for $10. The N42 head is what you're really after.

What company are you with and what company would be offering this new position? I've worked with General Dynamics through my whole (albeit short) contracting career, however my father has worked for quite a few and I know which ones to look out for and which ones to go with. Email or PM me and maybe I can help you out, give you a little insight.

Ron, that link was referenced from a Hybridz search result. I figured it would be more beneficial to give him the most pertinent information rather then having to hunt through the hybridz thread to find it.

That's a rather high compression ratio, especially for street. It's is easily attainable though. Just shave the head down, shim the cam towers accordingly and you should be in the 10:1 range. You may want to look at your ignition and fuel system before going to that point though. Adjusting the carbs should be easy enough, but I would question the timing and advance. I know from experience that with higher compression you'll need higher timing advance settings and with a l24 distributor you will have to either get a kit to recurve it or get a 280ZX distributor and an MSD or similar ignition system.

This is what I'm interested in...I have a 351W I'd like load into a Z.

Another one for, I Can't Drive 55

Wow, now that is the result of front heavy...