z ya

Problem is I cant find the yoke. All of the r200 280's I saw had a larger looking flange. The bolt hole centers look to be wider?

Try TPI PERFORMANCE, I think they are around $1600 with 2000 rpm converter,trans cooler,deep pan,etc. They are supposed to be good for 550 torque.

The 180 came from my 70 240z and the 200 came from an 75 280z.

I posted this in the drivetrain section but received no responce. I removed my r180 from my 240 to replace it with a r200 I got from an 280. The yokes are different in both bolt pattern and in pilot diameter. The JTR book says I need the one with the 2.25 pilot. The problem is that the one from the r180 has a different spline count and pinion diameter? I have the conversion flange from JTR on my drivshaft. Any help would be great?

I dont see this being possible. I know a lot of people with Motorhomes use Nitrous to help them pull steep grades. Now what they are doing is illegal? What is the vehicle code # on this?

Anyone???????

Ok, I got the r200 from I think a 75 280z from pick n pull. I then pulled the r180 out of 240. The 200 had the 2.00 pilot diameter that would not work with the conversion flange. The one on the r180 had the proper 2.25 pilot,but ouput shaft was much larger on the 200 and the yoke wont go on . In the JTR book they say nothing about diff size outputs. They just talk about pilot diameter. Do all 180's and 200's have diff size outputs and spline counts? What one do I need?

I am lost? NOS makes 50 state legal kits for stangs and z 28's. But its illegal? I think that it is illegal to have it in a 73 and newer car or truck.If the car has no emissions testing,pre 73 , how is it illegal? How can NOS sell there kit as 50 state legal but you have to have it unhooked?

Will the bolts line up that go to the dash?

All 240's!!! Power to weight!

Yeah, the TV cable is all hooked up. Now where is that pin that needs to be removed?

I have the cable in the foward spot on the lever. Where is the bolt that is supposed to be removed? It also shifts stiff when the cable is attached to the tranny.

I got a used b/m mega shifter from a buddy and I cant seem to get the cable adjustment quite right. I dont have the instructions for this shifter but my dad has his instructions for his pro stick. It says to put it in 1st on the shifter and put it in low gear on the tranny. The end piece should slide in and out of the hole easily. Then it says to go threw the gears and put in park. You should now be able to take the end piece in and out easily. Well mine no matter what I do seems to come out easily after going from park to 1st. I have a Quicksilver in my current jeep and had a mega in my old jeep so I have messed with these things before. I had th400's in those two though. It seems like the cables arnt set up for enough throw for the 4 spd autos. Any suggestions would be great.

OPPS, I forgot to say that they were down the 30 fpt from like 2000 to 3000 . But after that things got real close.

Hotrod mag did a test motor a while back and they installed both block huggers and long tubes. The huggers lost around 30 fpt to the long tubes but were up 2 hp on the top end. If you have a light car, stick shift or low first gear auto you will not miss the extra torque. The z cars are great for huggers. Now if you had a 4000 pound car then the long tubes for sure.

Cam440, Nice to see you made it to our neck of the woods . Those battle boards are a trip!

Thanks Dan, Its the brown/yellow for high speed. Its all wired now..

How is hard is it to steer with 245's on the front of the 240?

Sounds sweet Jason! My motor on Grumpys computer dyno only put out 386 hp/396 torque. Go for man sounds like it should rip! My z is just about done . All thats left is getting the exhuast installed and putting in the shifter. I will let ya know how it goes when it done. Good luck, Ron

Looks good! Get that sucker in and have fun!

If you want to hook that thing in a straight line go for a 15 " wheel with a 60 series. I am going with 235/60/15's on 7.5 convo pros. The wheels are VERY light , the taller sidewall helps hook the sucker out of the hole. I think that with the torque your motor puts out on the low end you will fry those 50 or 45 series tires way to easy. In the front I am going with 15x6's on 195/60's. I am shooting for 11's off the bottle and 10 on the gas. Good luck. Also, with the 235/60's you get a 26.1 inch tall tire that helps on the top end charge.

I take it that your wheels have 40 mill offset? You switched to honda 4 lug?

OK, so whats the verdit on the high speed? Is it the brown/yellow or the brown/orange? I bought the painless wiring relay/fan swith that is good for 30 amps. Is this gonna do the trick if its wired on high speed? It has a thermo switch that kicks the fan on at 185 and shuts off at 170. Thanks

OOPs, The cam was a 110 LSA. Sorry..

Hey GV, I was looking at an 350 build up that HOT ROD mag did a while ago. I cant find the mag but I wrote the engine specs down cause I wanted to try and copy or up that engine. It was a 350 that was un bored making 9.6 comp. It had and air gap with a 750 holley. The heads were out of the box Trick Flows with no port work. The cam was a 268 extreme energy with 268/280..477/480 lift with 106 loa. Its had 1.52 rollers as well. The ignition was an hei and it also had 1 5/8 block huggers. This sucker made 416 hp on there super flo engine dyno! Now, I know my heads are better. My cam is stouter and I have a little more comp ratio. Why do you think that set up made more than mine? Does the computer under rate the figures a bit? I would like to see what that motor makes on your program as to compare it to mine. I swear I am not wining, just curious... Thanks z ya