Mike Mileski

I don't have a build thread because I've done so many things to my car over such a long time (starting 10 years before I even joined this forum) and never really documented anything as I did things. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Here's why I didn't go with the JCI mount. In my case, I didn't want to use a T-56 transmission (large size and weight). I wanted to use a TKO600. The JCI mount is fixed and I wanted to have the option of being able to move the engine forward or back a little bit if I needed to. Since I wasn't sure which direction I might need to go, and the CX Racing motor mounts allowed for some fore and aft movement, I went with them. The have a video on YouTube showing an actual installation so I knew that they would at least mount the engine. So, am I exonerated? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

They have small thin Delrin disks (about 1/16" thick) as bearing surfaces between the pivot points making them super smooth operating and very tight fitting, no slop at all. Mike Mileski Tucson. AZ

Check out these bad boy billet aluminum hood hinges I just got for my '71 240. A guy named Dan MacKean (dmackean@yahoo.com) here in Tucson is making them in small lots and selling them for $450 a pair. They fit 1970-1978 Zs. He said he currently has three sets in stock. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I used the AZ Z Car heim pivot idea when I designed my rear arms but did as someone suggested above and located them on the centerline of the original inner pivot points. As I've mentioned to Jon in the past, I am designing a new set with the floating arm towards the front of the car, vs. the rear, although I've had zero issues with the design as it currently exists. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I just bought a pair of the CX Racing motor mounts so I should be able to report on them in a few weeks. I'm using a TKO600 trans (with a shift relocator from Autoworks) so that's why I didn't also purchase their transmission mount. I'm going to use the JTR T-5 mount and modify as needed to adapt it to the TKO600. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Has anyone ever done this or does everyone use electric? I am in the process of installing an LS3 in my '71 240. Previously, I had a ZZ4 crate motor using the JTR setup with a clutch cooling fan and it worked flawlessly in the AZ summers. My 2002 Tahoe has an engine driven clutch fan and I've thought about using one if it was doable. Before starting from scratch, I was checking to see if anyone has done it and what parts you used. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Unfortunately, Nissan has cancelled this part number and no Nissan dealers nationwide have any. I have even tried a couple of private Nissan parts suppliers with no luck. The vendors selling replacement clutch master cylinders must get them from somewhere, but I have had zero luck in finding out where. I placed two different orders with suppliers that still list the part number in their online inventory, but both replied back stating that they had to cancel because there was no longer any in stock. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

You're right, I just didn't do enough clicking. I'm using an aftermarket clutch master and need to rethread the Datsun piece to 3/8-24 thread and I don't have the old one. For that price, I think I'll buy two of them. Thanks NewZed. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

See the picture below to see what I'm talking about. Its the clevis at the end of the rod. It attaches to the clutch pedal. That's the part I need. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I can't find one of these for the life of me. All I want is the clevis that screws onto the clutch master cylinder rod that attaches it to the clutch pedal. I see them on all of the new clutch master cylinders that you can buy and they sell just the pin, but I want a brand new clevis and can't find any place that sells them. Does anybody know a source? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I think that, based on what you guys are saying, and thinking more about it, that I'm going to nix this idea. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Thanks for the comment. That's why I'm putting this out there. I can envision the control arm rotating a little bit, one way or the other, as it moves up and down but I can't envision any flopping around, in a static position, since the TC rod is a fixed length. The inner tie rod is a Moog EV162. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I have been putting together a new front control arm design. The outer portion of the main arm will have a rod end with high misalignment bushing in lieu of an outer ball joint. I used a double adjuster welded inside of piece of 1 1//2" OD tubing for the outer portion. The little rod end on top is for the sway bar link. The big difference is the TC rod. It uses a steering rack inner tie rod on one end and a pivoting rod end where it attaches to the main arm. That's the part I'm wondering about, will the pivoting rod end really make any difference compared to the normal solid connection? Any thoughts or comments on this? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

So, I have 1 1/2" sectioned struts on my '71 240 and am using the Illumina BZ3015 in the rear (made for the front of 240Zs) and the BZ3099 in the front (made for the rear of 87-89 Toyota MR2s). I noticed some leakage on the rears and figure I'd like to replace all of them. So, what quality adjustable strut inserts are readily available that will fit these cars? I can't seem to find any. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Cameron, I'll attempt to answer your questions. - Assume 1" x 0.095 tubing? No, it's 1" X .188" wall, same as all the rest of the tubing, except for the short piece where the "V" portion intersects. - The treaded tube where the rod ends attach - is that solid bar that was drilled and tapped or can you buy pretapped thickwall tube somewhere? All the tubing is the same, tapped for 3/4-16 thread when required. I can't remember who I bought the RH/LH threaded tubing pieces from (I'll keep searching). I know that they sell them in one inch increments all the way up to about 18" long. I'd pick a length just over what I needed, shorten it to the required length and rethread the shortened end. - I've never seen one before so where can you get that bolt on clevis? PSC Motorsports sell them (http://www.pscmotorsports.com/small-clevis-per-pair.html) - Seems 3/4 is overkill - has anyone successfully used 5/8 rod ends? See Jon's answer above. - I really like the inner pivot rod ends that bolt in to the factory mount idea - is that a threaded tube in the middle between the rod ends and the outer piece with the ears that bolt to the chassis just has a through hole? That's exactly right. - Going through the effort of making these, is there any geometry changes that would be usefull to build into them? I'm going to build another pair where the swing arm attaches to the front of the upright. Even though I've never had any issues with my arms in three years, the consensus on the forum seems to be that a front attaching swing arm design might be better. When I do this, I may consider lowering the inner pivot points. Again, that's been discussed here too and it seems that it would improve the rear suspension geometry. I would do it by welding the ears on the outer mounting pieces a bit higher, maybe all the way on the top, which would lower the inner mounting pivot point almost an inch over stock. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

The front wheels are 8" wide and the rears are 9". Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Since my control arms are custom made, and I have the TTT setup on the rear with custom hats, offsets won't mean much compared to a stock setup. I borrowed a set of stock 350Z wheels (I have a 5 lug setup) that had worn out tires on them and calucated the offsets I needed from those. The wheels are Enkei PF01. The tire diameter up front is 24.75" and the rears are 25.25". Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

245-40 X 17 front 265-40 X 17 rear I do have coilovers. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I have 265/40 X 17 tires that fit in the stock rear wheel wells of my 1971 240. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Jay23, I agree with NewZed's comment above. You have two inner pivot axes, one on the poly bushings and the other on your heim ends. I think that's going to cause all kinds of weird handling issues. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Thanks guys. I found out that the Gen III bellhousing will fit the LS block but the large flywheel, 168 tooth, that the LS uses won't fit inside the Camaro bellhousing, so I'd have to go with either a Lakewood scattershield or one of McLeod's modular bellhousings. That's if I wanted to keep my beefed up T-5, which I do. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I currently have a Chevy ZZ4 crate motor in my 1971 240Z mated to a GM Borg Warner T5 tranny that I've completely updated with G Force gears and mainshaft. I am using the stock GM bellhousing that came in 84-92 Camaros that used the 5 speed transmissions. That's the bellhousing that rotates the tranny about 15 degrees. I am contemplating going to one of the new E-Rod LS3 crate motors. I would still want to use this transmission because of it's size and ability to handle higher horsepower and torque, especially since it has been updated with all of the good G Force stuff. Is that doable with an LS motor? What components would I need to use this transmission with the LS motor? I'm pretty sure that this bellhousing won't just bolt up to an LS block, will it? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ