Mike Mileski

Maybe this might help. http://dirtydingo.com/shop/pages.php?pID=7&CDpath=4 Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Here's a few pictures on how I did a low mount alternator on the driver side of my LS3 crate motor. As shown in the pictures, I made a 3/4" O.D., .360" long aluminum spacer with a 10mm hole and used it to mount the alternator to the block and align it correctly with the drive pulley. Then I used two 10mm rod ends, both female, and a piece of 10mm threaded rod and two jam nuts and made a fixed length support rod. I could have used a piece of 3/8" thick bar stock instead but I had the rod ends laying around and it looks more trick this way I then used Comp Cams #54021 manually adjustable idler/tension pulley which is made to bolt up to threaded bosses in the stock LS water pump on the passenger side. Throw in a 59.0" long serpentine belt and you're done. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I just used a thick piece of aluminum bar stock (see picture) to use as a front diff stiffening bar. Although my control arm set up isn't stock, I don't see why you couldn't do something similar. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I think this whole purpose of this post was just so you could show us some more pictures of that killer lift in your garage and continue to make the rest of us jealous Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Nathan, if you could measure the distance from the mounting surface of the water pump to what you think would be the approximate center of the serpentine belt on the pulley, that would be great. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I bought an LS3 crate engine and originally wanted to use an engine driven fan for cooling. There is no provision for the screw on fan on the newer LS water pumps and the older LS water pumps also had bigger bearings in them to accommodate the heavier weight of the fan. My friend gave me his old, worn out water pump from his 5.3 2003 Suburban and, when I compared the two, the offset to the pulley was at least an inch different between the two. I wonder if the LS3 crate engine water pump is different than the ones that came in the LS3 Camaros and Corvettes. Anybody know that? Call me crazy but, even though I have a Taurus fan setup in the works, if I could find an LS water pump that had the same offset as the one that came on my crate LS3, I'd still consider going the engine driven fan route. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Seattlejester, I am running a configuration just like yours (see pic) that has the toe link at the rear. I have been running it like this for 3 - 4 years and have never had any issues. But, if I ever build another set (and I am planning on doing so), I plan on moving the toe link to the front as Jon has done. It just looks like it would be more ridged. But, like I said, mine have worked just fine. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

You could also make a bar that attaches to the TTT arm via the two holes you can see and extend it forward so it's under the sway bar hole and then use a stud sticking up from it as the link to the sway bar. Just a thought. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I believe that most of the electric window kits that can be used on a Z utilize plastic gears that slip over the stock splined shaft, and then the electric motor drive chain turns that gear. That means that the stock regulator spline must be in good condition. Sorry. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

You do realize that to mate a TKO600 (designed like Gen I/Gen II transmissions) to an LS motor, you just can't simply bolt them up. It requires lots of mix and match and specific bellhousing, flywheel and clutch combinations. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I have some high temp sleeving similar to this on my wires and I've never had any issues, and we're talking AZ in the summertime. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Stony, several places sell press-in -20 AN replacements for LS water pumps. Here is a pic from CBM Motorsports who sell them on ebay. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

What if you just added another bar a few inches up, in line with the seat holes, and use that to attach your belts? I wouldn't think that adding an extra bar would have a negative effect. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Powertrain Industries sells an adapter (they call it a flange yoke) that bolts to the R230 diff flange and has a yoke on it that fits a 1310 u-joint. Part No. 3102-42. Mine cost around $100. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I think, once you pull out the stock nipples, you can tap one for 3/8" NPT and the other for 1/2" NPT and then use whatever size of AN fitting you want. See attached picture. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

BoonZ, what was the center-to-center measurement between the ball sockets on the 92 rack? Was it the same as the 97? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I used the complete TTT setup on the rear of my '71 240, with an R230 from a '91 300ZX TT, and I didn't need to make any modifications to the cross member. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Jon, yes, I am doing the toe link in the front. The last ones I made had the link in the back and I've never had any issues but I agree with your opinion to mount it as close as possible to being under the lower strut mount, which is toward the front. 74_5.0L_Z, I really couldn't see anything on the Midwest control site that looked like mine. Mine are based on the ones that TTT uses on their arms but I needed my own special thread sizes on the adjuster, 3/4-16 on the outside and 1/2-20 on the inside, one right hand and the other left hand. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I'm making up a new set of rear adjustable LCAs and the length of my toe link was too short to make from two rod ends and a length of right hand/left hand threaded tubing so I made a "double adjuster" sleeve and coupled the two rod ends together. I think it's about the shortest non-removable adjustable link you can make (at least I think it is). Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I'm pretty sure that bellhousing came in 1985 - 1991 Chevy and GMC manual transmission trucks, so there's lots of them out there. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

R3VO 3VOM, did you know that Chevy made a truck bellhousing with an external slave cylinder mount? (see attached picture) If you were interested in going this route, here is a complete listing of everything needed, including the choke ring, which I believe you already have. bellhousing 15530202 slave cyl. 15615868 T.O. bearing 15613306 fork 15592270 pivot ball 15592268 flywheel cover 15521936 fork boot 15590132 McLeod choke ring 673-8701-4 Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Thanks guys. I appreciate the info. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I have a 1971 240Z. The ads for hoods say that 240Z and 280Z hoods are different. Just how "different" are they? Would it be simple or hard or impossible for me to adapt a 280Z hood onto a 240Z? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Dave is right. I believe a stock T-5 from a Camaro is only rated at 300 lb/ft of torque. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

You can bolt up a T-5 if you use an older style bellhousing large enough to fit an 11" clutch. Then you either need a special flywheel to allow you to use an old style clutch assembly or buy a special clutch assembly to work with the LS flywheel. Read the article linked below before you go any further. It is very informative. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/ccrp-0810-engine-transmission-swap-gen-3/ Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ