Mike Mileski

I have a can of fix-a-flat in one of the little compartments behind the seats in my 240. I wonder what the aftermath might be if it detonated in there? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Dan Juday wrote: This is a little wagon, right? You've got all that room in the back. Do like a Pantara and mount your radiator in the tail. It's going to take some creative plumbing, but the results should peg the cool meter. Panteras have the radiator in the front. It's the air conditioning condenser in the back. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Powder coated and ready to install.

Nope, toe on the rear is not adjustable with the stock suspension. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I had the parts for making the sway bar links so I just knocked one out, only I used a 3/8 rod end instead. See picture. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

The large outer adjuster has a 3/4-16 thread all the way through it. Its rod end, even when threaded in all the way in, still leaves at least 1" of unused thread on the inner side (see picture). This just happens to be right in line with the end of the sway bar. I'll probably just thread in a short 3/4-16 bolt, tap the head with a 5/16" thread, and attach a 5/16" rod end for the sway bar link. I'll post a pic when I finish them (hopefully in a day or two). Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Here's a picture (finally) of my new rear control arms. They are based on Cary's (tub80z)design with a couple of what I consider enhancements. I made some solid pieces with ears that take the place of the inner bushings, so the arms pivot on the two big, 3/4" X 3/4", heavy duty rod ends. In addition to having an adjustable floating leg, the other outer attachment point has an internally threaded shaft (similar to what Arizona Z Car used to have) that also allows it to be adjusted in or out without disconnecting anything. All of the other rod ends are 5/8" hole with 3/4" shank. I'll be installing them after powder coating. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Check out this thread from Classic Z. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28989&highlight=honda+wiper+motor Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Perfect alignment in this case isn't good. U-joints don't only have a maximum angle of operation but also a minimal angle. You need a small amount of misalignment to aid in lubrication. Check out some of the mechanical engineering forums and you'll see. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Perfect alignment in this case isn't good. U-joints don't only have a maximum angle of operation but also a minimal angle. You need a small amount of misalignment to aid in lubrication. Check out some of the mechanical engineering forums and you'll see. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I just measured the mounting bolt spacing on my R230 from a '91 300ZX TT and its 140mm. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I have an April 1971 built 240Z and purchased TTT's front diff mount for an R230 but won't be installing it for a month or so. Do any of the knowledgeable Z guru's know at what point, date-wise, the diff strap location may have changed? I'd sure like to know if I have a problem, and fix it, before I'm ready to bolt on the part. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I knew that a Tridon EP35 flasher would work because Dave Irwin from the Classic Z website told me that it would, and he's an S30 electrical guru. I went to the local Checker Auto (Checker-Schucks-Kragen) and found their equivalent which also ends in "35". There are two flasher units in our cars, both the same, one for turn signals and one for the emergency flashers (my car is a '71 240Z, by the way). Since the stock flashers are made of metal they are grounded when they are mounted but the electronic ones are made of plastic. That's why they have a third prong marked with a minus symbol that requires you to make a small jumper wire, hook it to that prong, and run it to ground. I just did this last week and now my turn signals and emergency flashers blink at the perfect speed (they used to blink real fast) and the electronic flasher unit was just $10.99. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Sounds like what you tightened was the reverse light sender. Maybe you broke something internally in it or shorted something which caused a fuse to blow??? Its hard to say. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

So here's a related question. If you put 280Z stuff on a 240Z, it will raise it. What about the reverse? If you put 240Z struts and springs on a 280Z, would it lower it a bit? I'm asking because when I remove the complete suspension from my '71 240Z to install my coilover setup, which I did using some extra struts, I was planning on giving the stock 240Z stuff to a friend of mine to install on his 280Z. Will it work? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

So who's going to be the first to try one of these (or has somebody already)? http://www.unisteer.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=UNISTEER&Category_Code=PERFELECTRASTEER Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I have a '71 240. Is the interior space within the door the same for all S30s? In other words, would I be able to fit the Camry motors inside my 240Z doors the same as a 280Z? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Whittie, look at the bottom of post 7 in this thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116043&highlight=%22tc+rod%22 Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I was originally going to get them from Juliano's, who specialize in street rods, but I ended up just getting them on ebay. I don't recall the brand. The only problem is that, when they are fully retracted, there's still some slack in them. In other words, they don't retract all the way into the portion you see in the picture, I guess its because the exposed portion, when mounted into a Datsun, is much shorter than in standard applications. They still work fine, though. You will also need to buy some 7/16 fine thread eyebolts that thread into the stock Datsun mounting points to help you adapt these. http://search.store.yahoo.net/cgi-bin/nsearch?catalog=wescoperformance&query=rjs-101&.autodone=http://store.yahoo.net/wescoperformance/nsearch.html Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I installed some three point belts in my '71 240. The only place to locate the retractable mechanism was in front of the rear wheel housings. I placed a plate underneath the metal deck via the storage compartments for reinforcement. See attached picture. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Just a thought here, but when you say that, unless everything is just right, the steering binds, wouldn't you worry about one of these many critical componets loosening up and binding up your steering at a critical time (like going around a high speed bend)? It just seems like too many joints, supports and links that could loosen up at the wrong time and suddenly, you can't steer. Maybe if it just caused a little slop, that would be acceptable, but a bind? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Are you sure he's not just wanting you to get as far away from him as possible in case you start having any issues? If you feel it's necessary to "break in" the engine, you can vary your speeds, slow down in gear, etc. while driving it home. Heck, I'd insist on at least a half hour test drive before committing to buy. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I had a pair of Mike Kelly's tubular LCAs and they were about 3/4" shorter than stock, when everything was screwed in all the way. I spoke with him because I am currently making up a new set for myself and he indicated, if doing it again, he would only go about 3/8" shorter. If you lower your car don't you gain negative camber, which means that you would want to pull the bottom of the wheel in, meaning a bit shorter arm, to get you back around zero degrees camber? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Nope. Everything will mount into the stock location. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Here's what I'm working on for my set of rear control arms. The end pieces of the long link at the top are the same OD as that of the stock, or poly, bushing and fit perfectly into the cradles that normally hold the stock bushing. The ears that are welded to these end pieces accept the stock bolts normally used to bolt the little U brackets over the bushing. These end pieces are held in place by 3/4-16 Grade 8 bolts that go through the big 3/4" rod ends and thread 2" into the main long tube. Once everything is tightened up and bolted in place, it allows the main arm to pivot on the two heavy duty 3/4" rod ends. I still need to fit, notch and weld the three additional pieces of tubing, which I've tried to show by the black electricians tape and approximate the final look. The one "floating" outer link is right hand / left hand adjustable and attaches to the clevis as shown. The other one will also be adjustable via the hex portion of an inner threaded sleeve that extends through the short piece of 1.5" OD tube. All of the tubing used to construct the arm is 1" OD except for that one short piece with the threaded adjuster. I'll take some finished pics to post when they're finished and guarantee that they will look better with real tubing and some powder coating. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ