Mike Mileski

I originally wanted the RPF1s but, after talking to the factory, I found out that there wasn't enough clearance between the spokes and my rear calipers. My rear calipers stick out a full inch farther than the wheel face. The PF01s are made with extra clearance for big calipers. Now I'm glad it worked out that way. Here's a side view of the right rear. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I have Modern Motorsports 5 lug aluminum front hubs and a Techno Toy Tuning set up on the rear so mine isn't stock. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Here's a shot of just the wheel from Enkei's site. I'll take a couple of side shots of mine later and post them. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

There has been lots of discussions on this forum concerning vibration issues as they relate to driveshaft/driveline alignment. I've always wondered if the installation of a double cardan joint (like they use on lots of 4X4 driveshafts) on one end of the driveshaft would solve the vibration issues we frequently have when we do a V8 conversion on our cars. Anyone out there that might know or have an opinion? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I just installed a set of Enkei PF01 wheels on my '71 240 this past weekend. 17x8 fronts and 17x9 rears. It is an awesome looking wheel. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I bought a steering rack for my 1971 240Z from Motorsport Auto a couple of years ago and decided to install it and make some adjustable tie rod adjusters for it at the same time. However, I wanted to find a pair of standard tie rods that had the same tapered stud dimension as the stock Datsun so they would fit into the stock steering arms PLUS have one of them right hand threaded and the other left hand threaded. I went to a good old fashioned auto parts store that had a thick Moog catalog, which listed top and bottom taper diameters and started my search. After a while I found a pair of tie rods that fit 1963-1982 Corvettes. ES323R (inner passenger side) and ES323L (outter passenger side). ES323R has a 5/8-18 right hand (RH) threaded shank and ES323L has a 5/8-18 left hand (LH) threaded shank (see pic 1). The taper dimensions were within a couple of thousandths of those listed for the stock Datsun, even closer than the ones listed earlier in this thread. The stock Z steering rack has a 14mm-1.5 LH threaded inner tie rod on the driver's side of the steering rack and a 14mm-1.5 RH one on the passenger side. Since I already taps in both of these sizes, and I liked the style of the threaded tie rod tube ends made by Summit Machine, I ordered a pair of their 5/8-18 threaded ones, one RH and one LH, and, since they didn't sell metric ones, a pair of 1/2-20 ones, one RH and one LH. I drilled out both of the 1/2" ones with a 1/2" drill, which was also the tap drill size for a 14mm-1.5 thread. I then tapped a 14mm-1.5 RH thread in one and a 14mm-.5 LH thread in the other. (see pic 2). I purchased one foot of 4130 tubing (1" OD X 3/4" ID)and cut two pieces to the appropriate length. The tube ends slip right in and can then be welded (see pic 3). I may put some flats on the tubing so they can be turned with a wrench but they turn so easily by hand that I might not. Check out the remaining three pictures for some more details, one has the stock Datsun tie rod in it for comparison.

The nuts on the inner tie rods on the steering rack are 14mm-1.5 thread, left hand on driver's side, right hand on passenger side. Check the link below, $1.59 for what you need. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection1.asp?Product=MJAM Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Does anyone know what the thread size is for the inner tie rod, the one that screws into the steering rack? I need the thread size of the part that threads into the rack, not the part that threads into the outer tie rod. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Can't you get a some bar stock about 5/8" - 3/4" wide (two per strut) to use as a spacer (whatever thickness you need to lower the strut enought to clear the hood) and drill two holes in it to match the existing holes? I'd use some longer grade 8 hex head bolts so you can apply some good torque when you tighten them down to hold everything in place. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Chevy ZZ4 crate motor G-Force GM T-5 transmission Z32 TT R230 differential, axles and hubs Techno Toy Tuning rear suspension custom front and rear control arms 4 wheel Wilwood rotors and calipers Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

It sounds like this is the low pressure return line and I bet if you just slide it on, use a correctly sized hose clamp, and tighten it good, you shouldn't have any problems. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I also made a set of rear arms just for myself that I won't make any more of that I hope to have on the road pretty soon. It is the floating arm in front design (that has been race tested by someone else on the forum already). It uses heims instead of bushings for the inner pivots and the adjustability is great. I'll be able to give more useful information in a month or two. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Shearing force is related to the stud's diameter, not its length. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Yes, the pressure plate springs should cause it to rest in the forward-most position, towards the engine. It would be pushed rearwards as you step on the clutch pedal. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

What about a Chevy dealership? They should be able to get you one. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Here's a source for metric threaded tube ends (it's a UK company). http://www.mcgillmotorsports.co.uk/index.php?page=0&act=viewCat&catId=29 Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Try this: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

You not only need the correct length, you need the correct poundage rating. You're either going to have to get them at a junkyard or go to someplace like PepBoys and buy some new ones that are listed for your car. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I had those Supra wheels on my '71 240Z for several years and I'm pretty sure the lugs from 280ZXs with factory mag wheels are lugs that fit. They have a thick washer, a straight shank and are the correct thread size. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

The first, and easiest, thing I'd check first would be grounds. Take off all the ground connections related to the lights and make sure you have a good clean connection. That could well be the issue. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

300ZX TT R230 and hubs, Techno Toy Tuning uprights, axles and crossbrace, Wilwood calipers and rotors, JSK hats, my own rear arms. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I got a clock out of a '78 280Z (one of the solid state ones), put it in my '71 240 about three years ago (it bolted right in) and it's worked flawlessly ever since. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

You say that the thread pattern is "too big". Maybe you could get a little adapter bushing made with your thread on the outside and the new desired thread on the inside??? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I needed some type of clevis joint and I happened to find just the right one at Performance Steering Components (see link below). http://www.pscmotorsports.com/pscsc16-large-steering-cylinder-clevis-end-p-631.html Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Here's mine. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ