deja

I lived in Cincy from age 11 to 19 and Dayton 8 years and and Cambridge Ohio fro 16 and I know we pronounced things strange. Like gasoline is gaZoline and we got our hairs cut not get a hair cut. But Datsun was always Daht Sun, at least in Greenhills. I never head anyone say "Daat-sin".

Nice to see it fired up. Any chance of it being ready for DNI in MaY?

Motorsports Auto http://www.zcarparts.com/

You need to bleed both sides in the rear to be sure all the air is out. If you don't have self bleeder valves or a vacuum pump http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92474 its a 2 man operation. The vacuum pump works great. You need to have someone else tighten the valve with pressure still being applied to the pedal after the air comes out or you'll just suck air back in.

LOL, it wouldn't be the same car without that "high-tech" prop. BTW I like the new paint.

That really looks nice, very clean and professional. The question is.....do you have a hood prop? LOL

It looks real but either that is a knock off or this guy has no clue what an opti is worth.

The moisture issue should only be a problem in the pre 95 LT1. The 95 and up had a vented Opti which is supposed to fix that. I hope the MSD works for you.

No clue. You might look at these guys for a total Opti option. http://www.delteq.com/ If mine ever quits I may go this way.

I had a MSD on my donor car, it blew before I could install in engine. Personally I think MSD is junk, JMHO. The word on Opti seems to be a good one will last a long time, a bad one not long. Its just the luck of the draw. Make sure you get a Delco Opti, not a knock off. I actually got mine on Ebay, but it is a Delco. Unfortunatly GM is no loger making new ones so most of the ones sold are rebuilds.

Something seems to be wrong. I tried uplaoding a photo and got: Warning: move_uploaded_file(../album.hybridz/uploads/13171/skirt-done1.jpg) [function.move-uploaded-file]: failed to open stream: Permission denied in /var/www/album.hybridz/image-inc.php on line 48 Plus most time the site is timing out making me hit refresh to get to any link.

OMG!!! You are insane, I knew it now it has been confirmed. I can't wait for DNI.

Great progress Wayne. What is your dream boost/HP target?

Warren are you talking about the trans to shaft adapter or a flange adapter? I assumed he want the flange adapter. I can't imagine a driveshaft shop having a flange adatper for a Z.

JTR's is only $60. Why would you not want to use it? http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Datsun_Order.html

They are probabaly all the same. I got mine from http://www.superbrightleds.com/ when I got the bulbs.

Maybe this is a 280Z thing only. When I posted mine I don't think anyone else had that problem.

I was shocked and relieved when I found it. I was sure it was something expensive, like the diff or axels. Apparently the diff pivoted down enough to allow the flange to hit the sway bar when I backed up.

My LT1 did that one my first drive. It turn out to be the JTR driveshaft flange was hitting the sway bar when I backed up. I ended up just removing the bar.

One warning, new rack bushings might not fix that movement problem. I tried 2 different sets of bushings and the problem persisted. To "fix" that rack movement problem I made some spacers from 20 gauge steel and welded the on each side of both bushing flanges on the rack. I only needed to add a spacer to one side of the bushing on the steering box side. The bushings fit very tightly now and the rack movement is gone. I really don't understand why Datsun made these fit so loosely. Anyway I'm back on the road, vibration free and the steering in tight and as true.

This is a very cool thread. And something I had wondered about too since I certainly don't rank in the youngins category, not even close. I saw it at my first DNI event, so many young guys owning cars built before they were born. I think Challenger wins the prize for buying his first car at 10. At 10 I was buying plastic models and only dreaming about actually owning a car. BTW lowcarbz my first ride after college was a brand new 1965 Sunbeam Tiger!

I don't have an oil cooler but it seems like I read somewhere that the F-body radiator has a section for oil cooling much like the tranny cooler, seperate from the engine coolent. Are you sure you can plumb this straight into the engine coolent? I would be afraid to attemt tapping into the plastic trad tank, but then thats just me. Maybe a rad shop would be an option. Look at my post above to see how I plumbed my vent line, it is more like what the F-body setup is.

There is a lot of talk about this. In reality all the plumbing does is allow the steam from the heads to condense back to water which happens rather quickly. This is how I did mine, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120554&highlight=steam. Its very close to what the Z28 did if you look at the shop manual. I have been running this for over a year and have never had a hint of over heating.

I agree, I can see the heat coming out of my vents. The down side of course is it also allows water in when its sitting in the rain or washing the car.