deja

Awesome, love the color.

Not the best drawings but http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/explodedviews/280z/ has many on-line for the 280z which is almost the same for much of what you're asking for the 240Z.

Thanks guys.

One of my CV boots has torn and the rest don't look all that good so I need to replace them. Yeah, I should have done this before they were installed but I mistakenly got cheap. I looked on-line and in Black Dragon and there seems to be at least 2 different boots depending on years and/or turbo. My problem is I really don't know what axles I have. Can anyone identify this photo as to what they came from?

I just did this. You DO NOT have to pull the diff to get the hard line out or back in. Granted there is not a lot of room but its doable. Granted I have a highly modified car. I have a custom gas tank which sits closer to the diff than stock, true dual exhaust and 2 fuel lines that sit right under the brake line T fitting. But it really isn't that hard. There are only three things bolted to the body, 2 clamps and the T fitting.

Hopefully the heads will be salvagable.

The rockers and springs are the 1.6 that came with the hot cam kit and are self aligning. The only machining on the heads was to true up the mating surface. I will get my hands on the adjustable pushrod just to be safe. The comp cam hardened pushrods I am looking at are 5/16 in. Dia.; 7.195 in. Length which I assume to taking into consideration the machining done. Stock is 7.2".

Thanks grumpyvette. I will NOT be pushing this engine over 6000 RPM.

What is your opinion on chromemoly pushrods as oppossed to hardened steel ones for my LT1 build? The engine is a 4 bolt GM crate 5.7L LT1 short block but will have a GM LT4 hot cam kit with springs and 1.6 roller rockers. Heads are reworked stock '95 LT1 heads. The car will be mainly street driven with an occasional trip to the drags. I am lookig at comp cams 7608-16 or 7808-16 pushrods. Are the chromemoly ones (7608-16) worth the extra money for my needs?

LOL, that's what I said too. But once you feel the power of a V8 in these little cars you just want more! Good luck on your swap.

All good advise. I went the wrecked but drivable donor car route and don't regret it. I was able to sell what I didn't use for more than I paid for the car......drive drain free. Trust me, those while you are at it diversions will eat up your budget and time line. Some are necessary as you get deeper into the project but most can be put off for another time. Get the car running and safely streetable and do the other things when time and money allow. I didn't listen to people about the while your at it stuff and my "3 month project" ended up taking me a year. Because it took so long there were times when I thought about giving up, sure glad I didn't, I love the car.

I certainly bow to your engineering expertise, its way more than I really understand. That and what I read on the F-body sites is why I'm NOT getting a bigger throttle body. BTW I did notce the LT4 still used the 48mm throttle body even with the better heads and intake.

Same car as the Saturn Sky. This IMHO is why GM is in trouble. They make too many cars with nothing different than trim packages. Long gone are the days when the 5 makes were really different.

With all that work I would get an upgraded throttle body too. All I'm changing is the a GM hot cam with 1.6 rockers.

Holy crap!!!! You've got A PM.

I was thinking about getting one for my LT1 build but everything I have read on F-body message board confirms what grumpyvette says. Unless you do radical things (better heads, big cam) your stock throttle body will be just fine.

I would not trust the Datsun shaft. I went with a cut down Z28 steel shaft.

MSA makes oine for the 280Z without the turn signals.

Progress is good. Looking foward to DNI and seeing that beast for real.

The 4L60E auto is a 4 speed overdrive with 0.70 4th gear. Depending on your tire size you'd be taching 2700-3100 at 70 mph. 4L60E gear ratios: 1st 3.06, 2nd 1.75, 3rd 1.00, 4th 0.70 I'm running a 3.7 rear gear and 205/50x17 tires, taching 2450 at 70 mph. My old 3.54 tach3 2350 at 70 MPH. Use this calculator: http://www.catherineandken.co.uk/sti/tyres.html

The T56 is a double overdrive tranny 2.97:1, 2.07:1, 1.43:1, 1.00:1, 0.80:1, 0.62:1.

Ballpark measurement is right, I was shocked about how the length can vary. My AC Delco - 6K615 62 1/8".

Mine is pretty tight too.

I agree it SHOULDN"T be necessary, but like I said I tried poly and rubber, didn't make any difference. And apparantly this is a known problem. Good luck in finding the right combo but I have my doubts it exists. It shouldn't cost mush to have the spacers welded and it really makes the rack feel great. My car goes where its aimed with instant response.

From what I understand too the 240Z rack has a quicker ratio and the steering box is aluminum. My 280Z had that rack movement problem from the day I bought the car. It got worse when I changed to a new rack. Both racks were 280Z racks for sure and I tried 2 different types of bushings. Do yourself a favor and use one of the methods found on http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=137589&highlight=rack I ended up using poly busings. My rack is tight and the steering is instant, absolutely NO play.