deja

I never liked Sanderson's instructions of using RTV. I went with Earl's Performance 29DA3BERL from Summit, expensive but they work great.

Yep, use an allen wrench. I think the 8mm or 10 mm depends on the car. Mine uses 8mm, take the JTR flange with you to be sure.

I agree with RTZ. Unless your Home Depot is a hell of a lot better than the 3 within 10 miles of my house your not going to find metric (8mmx30mm) grade 10.9 bolts there. You sure don't want to use a bolt the does not fit the holes in the JTR adapter and the diff, get metric. BTW the JTR instructions said to use 8mmx30mm socket bolts, nylon lock nuts and to use red locktite. I picked all that up but soon discovered the 30mm bolt are not long enough to engage the nylon on the lock nuts, I ended up getting 40mm bolts. My ACE Hardware has a great selection of grade 10.9 (stronger than grade 8) metric stuff.

I would try the factory filter first. When I first got my 77 280Z it had a old school SBC with a HEI. The PO had installed a aftermarket tach mounted on the console, pretty useless. I tried the JTR method to get the stock tach to work with little success. The car had a ballast resistor is series with the stock tach. I tried removing it but then the tach just bounced all over the place. At that time I was unaware of the filter "fix" so I just gave up and used the tach set for 6 cylinders and knew what 6000 rpm was on the 6 cylinder tach. So Brapp might be right, maybe the later tach won't work.

I found this on a Z28 site: The white wire in cavity "B" of the ICM plug will probably work. However the 1993 tach gets its feed directly from another white wire on the coil plug that later years do not have. That wire has a little filter on it. No clue what that "filter" would be. You might consider one of these. http://www.camaros.net/techref/electrical/tachfilter/

If I rememeber you're running a 93 engine right? Sorry about the confusion, my schematics are for the later engines.

There is a blue connector tha come off the engine harness Is the white wire the one you are using for the tach? It comes from the PCM pin A-13. I'm not saying this will work with the Datsun tach, I'm using the GM guage cluster, but that is the tach signal the LT1 puts out. C230...blue 10 pin connector. ............B- brown w/ white stripe (signal out to MIL lite) ............C- white w/ black stripe (diagnostic signal request input to PCM) ............D- white (tach signal out to dash) ............E- dark blue (VATS fuel enable input) ............F- dk green w/ white stripe (AC signal request) ............G- pink (12v 15amp fused ignition switched power feed into PCM, MAF) ............H- AUTOMATIC- lt blue w/ black stripe (TCC switched power in- wire thru

Oh sure now you come up with this, LOL. I was able to get them in without incident after I dropped the A-frame which I assume I would have to do either way. The "smashing" really isn't an issue. My test fit didn't show and real distortion of the hat. Its all done now but I will keep this in mind when I rebuild the other set I have.

Yep, thanks. After I got under there I could see what you were talking about. I did support the diff before I took the front bolts out when I saw they are the actual frame support for the front diff mount.

The secret is dropping the control arms. I supported the diff, pulled the 4 bolts holding the arms which allowed me to move the suspension enough to get the halfshafts to slip into the companion flanges. Thanks for your help.

So you just took out the 4 bolts on the bottom of the control arms. This will allow me to move the whole suspension outward? Why do I see impending doom,. No problem with the strut and spring still being attached? I don't have a lot of experience with these suspensions.

I got the long haftshaft together and attempted to install it on the passenger side. I snapped it into the diff, no problem. But pushing on the halfshaft to compress it only allows the bearing race to get past the companion flange. The hat will not clear. I see now why they didn't put the hats on when this was originally done. I jacked the suspension up to its fullest thinking that might give me more room but not really. Any help here is greatly needed, as usual the shop manual is useless.

Thanks, that's what I was thinking just wanted to be sure I wasn't making a major mistake. Mine are around 1/8" off so it shouldn't be too tough. Not having the spring in there just didn't seem like a good idea.

I am putting new 280zxTT CV halfshafts on my 280Z. The one's on there lost one of the boots so I picked up a new set and rebuilt those with new boots. The outboard hats on the ends of these halfshafts do not sit down tight against the MM adatpers. They seem to hit on the end of the stub axle. The CV's that were on the car did not use the hats, just RTV against the MM adapters. Is this the normal install? If so is there an issue with not using the load spring that sits inside the hat?

Nice. I will be in Tucson next month. Maybe I can talk my bro in the a road trip to see this beast.

A 4L60E to a LT1 there are five 2/3/8" and one 2"

What I did for my C5 seat was bolt the Datsun tracks into the car without the seats. I then welded 1"x4" rectangular tubing to the tracks, across the front and back. The C5 seats bolt to the tubing. This does raise the seat a littel higher than stock so tubing smaler than 1" might work better for you.

I have areos on my car and can't get the jack under it either. I use 2 2X10 10 ft long. I lag bolted them together and bolted them into floor plug inserts to drive up on. This gives me 3 inches off the ground so I can do some stuff without jacking the car at all. When I need more heilght I use 6 to stands.

Sometimes they will stick if the carb is turned upside down. You might try just tapping on the float bowl or take the carb off and shake it you should be able to hear it if its free. Failing that you may have to pull the bowl.

Float stuck shut?

I know that, just seeing it in writing ya know.

There ya go. MAN, your 1/8 mile speed is better than my 1/4 mile speed!!

That's the smallest time sheet I've ever seen, LOL. No way these old eyes can read that!!!! But congrats getting into the 5's.

It might just be easier to have a good shaft shop replace it with a better one than paying to ship it back and you'l get is back faster. They used the stock Z28 yoke when thet built my shaft.