deja

That makes more sense. I was wondering why it was so rusted with only 24K on it, of course it is the great white North, LOL. Nice find anyway.

Awesome, love the color and the fenders.

I agree, that car is badass looking for sure......except for those ugly bumpers, LOL.

My LT1 4L60E with stock rear end and no roll cage weighs in at 2905 with 17 gallons of fuel. I have added bad dog frames and a lot of metal for the Z28 fule tank I added. I replaced the rear floor on mine too but it is truck bed sheet metal. I would think with the rear sectioned and an all cast engine you're going to be right around there or over. If you wnat to drop over 100 pounds get rid of those stock bumpers!

What are your plans for the car? A V8 swap does not require a suspension change. If your stock stuff is shot or you want to go racing then of course you need to upgrade. My 280Z ran for years without problems with the stock suspension. I put lowering springs and new struts on it last year when I did the LT1 swap, it does handle a lot better now.

My ex wife drove over a square manhole cover that was sticking stright up in a parking lot in her '77 Honda Accord and split the oil pan. Of course not being mechanically inclined she just drove the car about 5 miles home, inspite of the noise and the glowing check engine light.......grrrrr. Turned out the lack of oil didn't hurt anything. Since it was the fault of the parking lot owner they told me to take it to the Honda dealer. The mechanic replaced the rod and mains but showed me the parts and both of us agreed there was no visable damage. She put another 100k on that car before trading it off on another Honda.

Maybe some wind or solar would be better. Nice theory but that thing doesn't really work. I saw it a while back and did some more research on it only to find he never pefected it.

That's the hard part. Salvage yards, EBay, Craigslist or even HybridZ classified. Of course you can always make your own.

For my MSA fiberglass rear bumper on my 280Z I bought those rediculously expensive brackets from Datsun Spirit. Technically, the brackets are for European 260Z/Japanese A-S30/S31 models. These brackets bolt to the mounting holes in the valance just like a 240Z bumper would. Unfortunately they don't exactly line up with the MSA bumper mounting brackets. I had to make new brackets for the MSA rear bumper and glass them onto the MSA bumper. But if you have the early 240Z brackets it should just bolt on.

Wow, you are taking this thing to the max. Can't wait to see it run. All that and finishing college.............ahhhhh to be young with unlimited energy, LOL.

The color is beautiful and that hood is awesome, what a great idea.

My old engine used that adapter if thats what you're taking about. No issues, gauge worked fine. In fact I used one in the thermo housing for the gauge and there was a fitting in the water pump I used to run my fan. BTW if you live in Suwanee you live about 4 miles away. Let me know if you need a hand with anything. Dale

If you remove the smog stuff from the engine you need to remove it from the computer too or the computer will be confused about not getting the proper inputs. You might talk to http://www.madtuner.com/ or another chip programming companey (search Google) about your needs. They have several options on how to do this. If you don't have access to a chip programmer and the knowledge on how to work on electronics you're going to have to have someone do it for you. You might ask that question on a GM message board like http://www.z28.com/forum/index.php or http://www.fbody.com/lt1/postform.htm But don't mention you're putting thier beloved engines in a Datsun, LOL. Just say you want to make a smog free engine and ask who they reccomend for programmimg the chip. Basically you need to do some research to understand what these computers need in your situation so you only have to do it once.

Good catch, I missed that '93 note in his post. From Wikipedia: The 92-93 LT1s used speed density fuel management, batch-fire fuel injection and a dedicated engine control module (ECM). In 94 the LT1 switched to a mass airflow sensor and sequential port injection. A new, more capable computer controlled the transmission as well as the engine and got a new name: powertrain control module (PCM). Where the ECM held its calibration information in a replaceable chip, the PCM was reprogrammable through the diagnostic port.

See post #4, that is what was removed and modified in my '94 LT1. You think that Helms book is thick? I got the GM Fbody manuals, all 4 of them. Each one is at least that thick!

They are talking about that snow hitting Atlanta tomorrow. We haven't had a good snow in years. Personally I can do without it, too many years since I lived in the North to enjoy snow anymore.

That's good to know. Mine is a '94 so no rear O2's. Shbox rules thats for sure. They got me through a lot of trouble spots. Even though the site is mainly 95 Lt1 info a lot of it still applies to later models.

A friend of mine did my computer for me using Datamaster software. There are several software packages out there, like LT1 Edit and TunerCat. It isn't cheap. The cable alone will cost you around $100. You should do a search on Google for LT1 programming. It should return both software links and links to companies that will program your computer for you. If you don't plan on making multiple changes getting yours done for you may be the way to go. Try these guys http://carputing.tripod.com/9697lt1edit.htm for starters. And http://www.tunercat.com/

I am running Vintage Air in my LT1 280Z using a stock GM compressor. It works great and was pretty easy to install. The only down side I see is the high speed fan is mighty noisey.

It doesn't matter if its 94 -97, OBD1 0r OBD2 you still program it through the diag port, just uses different software and cable. You can remove all the EGR stuff from the engine, just be sure to delete it in the computer. But you still need the O2 sensors for the fuel maps to work right. Heres a list of what was changed in mine: 1. WOT blocker. This is a tuner trick used for modified cars, but also helps with stock programs. It locks the BLM's at 128 at WOT. Keeps idle corrections in BLMs from altering the entire range of fuel correction. 2. EGR, CCP, A/C sensor pressures, traction control were all disabled 3. Raised the rev limiter to 6400 RPMS 4. Gears 3.54 and 215-50-17 tires programmed 5. Lowered the fan temps to 179 and 197. This is usually where the fan temps get programmed to when you add a 160 thermostat. #4 and 5 will depend on your situation.

I don't know how California handles smog laws for these cars. This has been discussed here a lot so do some searching for that. You do need the 02 sensors to run correctly. Without them your computer will not know what to do with fuel mistures. You do not need the EGR but California may require it. If you want to eliminate that it can be done with computer programming. There is no chip, you need to reprogram the computer through your OBDII port. There are companies that do that for a price or you can buy software and do it yourself. One big thing you will need to deal with is the VATS system. Again this can be eliminated in the computer. If you want to keep it all you need is the VATS module and figure out the resister from the original car's key. If you don't do one of these the car will not start. If you do manage to partially wire around the VATS but don't eliminate it from the computer it will only run for a few seconds and then the VATS will turn of your fuel pump.

It probably wouldn't hurt but even automatic transmissions cooling is greatly improved by running another cooler. I am running my 4L60E cooling lines through the radiator and then into a cooler in front of the radiator and back to the tranny. Coolers are not that expensive, if I were you and wanted an engine oil cooler I'd run a real one and not rely on the radiator cooler.

My car had an old school SBC in it when I bought it so although I had the stock tank it did not have the fuel pump, engine used a mechanical pump. For the LT1 swap I decided I wanted to run true duel exhaust which meant a new tank. I used the Z28 tank from my donor car (what a nightmare of modification that was, LOL) and am running the stock Z28 in-tank pump. The LT1 fuel injection requires 40 PSI, I don't know if the stock 280Z pump will produce that.

I found an old pict of these on my computer labled as 300Z hubs. That even confuses me more since I've never had a 300Z. Is possible they were part of the CV rear axels I picked up a few years ago?

MM makes two adapters, a 36mm and a 40mm. Since my wheels are 40 offset so I got 40mm adapters. I don't know if anyone make a 38, I know MM does not. I don't know how much of a problem there is in not having the correct adapters to match the offset of your wheels but I do know it puts stress on the wheel bearing. Only being off by a few mm might not make any difference. But if you want 7" rims with a 40mm offset just get 40 mm adapters and you'll be fine.