deja

I bought the setback plates and spacers for JTR last March. They are both aluminum. Too tell you the truth these are so reasonable I don't think its worth making them yourself, just my opinion.

I got all the LEDs for my Z from http://www.superbrightleds.com/ They have LED replacement bulbs as well as invividual LEDs in a variety of colors and brightness. There is also a wealth of information about LEDs in an automotive application.

I'm not running a L6 but have to say that really looks cool.

Snake-monster is an understatement! Looking good Wayne. Looks like you're gonna have to do some hood modifying too.

The lights are about 2" apart and a little less from the edge. I can take more precise measurements if you need them. I pretty much eyeballed the left one and duplicated it on the other side.

There are several choices people here have used. You can move the battery to the rear of the car and put the computer where the battery normally is. On my LT1 I mounted it inside on the firewall right behind the glove box. One other proson here actually mounted in the the crowl after removing all the air ducts.

It might make for an exciting ride in the rain! They have been off and on the car so many times during this LT1 conversion I must have got confused at some point.

Thanks. Do you mean because of the tread pattern? DOH! You're right. Damn, how or when did that happen? I was going to pull the wheels tonight anyway, so I'll put them back on right. Thanks for noticing that.

I got that one too. I'm think about getting their garage floor paint so I can get the garage floor to look decent after my conversion is done. That discount would save me a lot.

I was searching around today about sway bars and saw a lot of posts including yours that said that very thing. I did notice most of the people that said the took it off were road racers, not drag racers. I am building a daily driver but being an old road racer myself I want it to handle well too. Thanks for the post, we'll see how it goes.

BRAAP, you and I were right. Oh, yeah we had rubbing. It was the u-joint hitting on the swap bar. I unbolted the sway bar, pulled it out of its frame mount and tye-wraped it so it wouldn't drop and ran the car forward and backward several times. Of course I am totally deaf now from the open headers but there is no clunking! Yahoo. Now the question is how do I fix this. The obvious but most expensive one is to get a rear mounted sway bar. Or I could just take the thing off and see how it handles without one at all. Or somehow figure out how to lower the frame mount which looks tough since the bracket is welded on and at this stage I don't want to attempt welding in that area. At The Chiropractor's suggestion I will pick up a new diff isolator anyway just because its a good idea. Who know maybe that will raise the diff enough to fix it. For now I have pulled the bar out completely.

MyToyota 4runner calipers are for the front brakes, not the rear. But they were part of a kit, they don't just bolt on and I'm not sure what years you use. The 280zx is for the rear again not a simple bolt on there are changes you need to do for the e-brake. But a lot has changed over the last couple years. Swapping to 4 wheel discs is easier now. There has been a lot posted about this, it shouldn't be hard to find the exact answers by seaching further.

Thanks, I will check them again tonight.

It probably wouldn't hurt to change that anyway. But that start off clunk that was there with my old setup is gone now. I think that was the u-joint in the old setup.

I tried calling 440-232-4454 which is the number on his website but it is disconnected. I also had no response from emails.