deja

I just put one on my 280Z. I had to redo the mounts but I knew that going in. The fit is fine but I had to do a lot of filling and there are bonding marks at the curves that need to be addressed if you want them to be smooth. Overall I was satisfied. Now my front bumper I got a few year ago from Show Cars sucked, took major work to get in decent enough to use. mopar69, I was totally bummed when I saw your bumpers for sale since I had just got mine. Story of my life, LOL.

Glad to hear they got it running. My 280Z SBC had a similar issue when I first got it. I ended up replacing the alternator, starter and battery all within 2 weeks. Not sure who took who out but I ended up getting rid of the Datsun Alternator and voltage regulator and went with a 1 wire GM alternator, an easy swap. As for grounding you want to have good grounds from the battery to the engine and chassis, and from the engine to the chassis. When I did my LT1 engine swap I ran grounds from the engine to the chassis on both front frame rails and 1 to the firewall. Make sure the ground point is very clean and use star lock washers to assure good contact. These computer controls cars are real picky about good grounds.

Conrats Bryan. I know that feeling, mine scared the hell out of me when it started the first time. I guess I didn't really believe mine would start either.

Awesome launch, dude must have been sleeping!

Congrats, quite a rush isn't it!

I don't know what LS1 or your truck computer normally uses for fans, one fan or two. But if the computer is expecting two fans you might have a problem running a two speed single fan. You shouldn't try to send voltage to both the high and low speed windings at the same time. You need to turn off the low speed output from the computer when the high speed kicks in. I added an additional relay to accomplish this. When the low speed computer output kicks in it sends low speed voltage to the fan's low speed winding through the relay's normally closed contact. When the high speed kicks in the computer sends voltage to the relay coil which will turn off the low speed voltage and send voltage to the high speed winding on the fan through the normally open contact. Here's the schematic I used with my LT1 using a Z28 computer and the complete under hood wiring harness including the stock relays:

Having just switched from Scarab to a JTR setback system I will sya clearance is not an issue. The difference is steering is hard to tell but it does seem the JTR is a little bit easier. I even lower my 208Z 2" and so far the oil pan has not been an issue.

Happy birthday HybridZ. Without this board many of us would be in trouble working on these cars. Funny though, I had someone ask why I have a decal on the window that says HybridZ when my car is not electric!

So apparently in 31 years you never rotated your tires? LOL! Back in the day I never rotated tires either, I would burn off the rears too fast so I saw no point. BTW I love the color of your car. I remember when I would go to Mid Ohio back in the 70s I would always see the same Z that color, it was a 240Z not a 280Z. I had taken a lot of pictures of it, wish I still had them.

The first rule of debug......Are you plugged in? Check all the connectors in the steering column. Make sure that single black ground wire is properly seated. That's assuming you've already checked for blown fuses.

LOL, no clue. I don't even have a fuel injected 280Z, mine's a SBC. But http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/explodedviews/280z/ is the link to all the exploded views of a 280Z. Look in the fuel section it should be there. Looks like maybe its in the EFI harness link.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/explodedviews/280z/77fsm/fuses%20&%20relays.gif

Nice, the color is awesome. I love the old school wheels, are you going to keep those?

I have had the infamous Z car steering wheel shimmy in various degrees for the three years on my 280Z. After updating everything in the suspension (wheels, tires, ball joints, hubs and bearings, struts, springs, brakes and all the bushings) during my LT1 swap I figured it would be gone…...….WRONG. I searched here and found a thread talking about "road force balancing". I made a quick call to Kauffman Tire and was informed they indeed have the Hunter 9700 machine to perform the road force balancing. An hour and $50 later the shimmy is gone, at least up to 60mph, I will check higher speeds this afternoon when I can get on the Interstate.

LOL, I had a Ford Ranger that did that. You might have a connector or even a light socket that is corroded on the inside allowing leakage from a voltage pin to a ground pin. Just disconnecting stuff can fix it...temporarily. I went thought this many times on my 280Z, never left home without boxes of fuses. I finally gave up and replaced the complete harness. I was shocked to see the condition of some of the connectors and wiring.

Its only 12 miles, but I did make a run to an off-site facility at noon about 25 miles which got me on I-85 and 80mph, wahoo. I still have quit a bit of front end shake from 60 mph up. I will take it in to the tire store for a road loading balance if I can find someone that can do that. The car has always had that in varing degrees even after I changed tires.

That's not good. Since I used the Z28 fuel tank I welded the Z28 filler so I could use its cap. Well a 14 year old cap doesn't really seal all that well and my first hard left hand turn spilled fuel out from under tha cap which as you know runs down the innner fender and fumes filled the cabin. A new cap seems to have fixed it.

Get to wrenchin'. It won't be the same without that beast of your's there.

Tick-tock....let me now if I can be of any help.

Your turn over of projects is amazing. You barely get it working and start over. But that's what we have these cars for, otherwise we'd just buy something like everyone else has.

It might not be the amperage but the fact you're using a fast blow fuse. If the circuit suddenly asks for a lot of current the surge current might be blowing the fuse even if the steady current is less than 10A. I'd try Careless's suggestion of isolating the problem, but if that isn't conclusive you might try a 10A slowblow fuse. No guarantees, just a sugestion.

Thanks Warren. We seem to be on the time schedule! You gonna be ready for the March show?

LOL, its not like i didn't think about it. But I have found a reason to make a trip this afternoon, for business reasons of course!

I drove the 280Z LT1/4L60E swap to work today. It’s the first real drive in over a year. The swap took much longer than I had anticipated but then I did a lot more to the car than I had planned, those "while I'm at it projects" ya know. The car is about 90% done with only AC plumbing and wiring and installation of the grille and front bumper to go. There are a few debug projects to finish too. I am very pleased with the car, it is so much quicker than the old school 350 I had in it before and with the lowered suspension the handling is night and day over the old stock setup. Although I know working on and modifying this car will never really be done now that the project is almost complete I think I'm going into postpartum depression, LOL. I know this gets old but I want to thank everyone here that helped me along the way and kept me inspired when things got tough. In particular jbc3, Bartman and nullbound without who I would have been lost several times. I am so happy I stumbled onto this board a few years ago. I hope to see many of you at DNI next month.