deja

Did you learn that beer can thing from experience? LOL. Also you will need a radiator catch can, not a beer can but a real catch can. If you need anymore help please let me know.... John

'77 280Z LT1 iron block, aluminum heads. 4L60E transmission with cooler. Aluminum JTR radiator, AC condensor, Taurus fan. LT1 fuel tank (full 17 gallons). Complete interior with steel/fiberglass custom dash (heavier than stock) and Miata seats, two layers of sound deadener and full carpet. Fiberglass front and rear bumpers. 2905 lbs.

Oh man! Good luck with the swap. I don't want to see you have to run the Tundra again.

I went through that shock a couple years ago. Got one quote for $400 to pad and recover the stock 280Z seats and one from a guy that does work for Year One for $700! And that wasn't even leather! I bought new seats.

Congrats Bryan, Its a rush when it fires for the fires time isn't! Get all those sensors hooked up and the pig rich thing will go away. PCM has to learn how to run.

I hear ya. and I'm happy for you that you didn't quit. I am about 95% done with my LT1 swap. But there were times during the year it took where I thought "what the hell were you thinking". But the day came when I finally drove it to work I got the thumbs up from many of my co-workers and a few divers along the way. When I got home I stood for a while just looking at it and it dawned on me "you actually did it". I felt a sense of pride of accomplishment I hadn't felt in years. Every time I punch it even a little I get a huge rush. I am so happy I decided to make the swap, now I can say with pride, "yeah, I built that".

LOL, yeah I hate when that happens. At least you didn't go out and buy a new starter!

I'm pretty sure my sensors are wired different that Jody's. I know the sender at the back of the intake goes to my guage becuase I ohmed the wiring and had to replace it to get the gauge to work. I did not rewire the engine harness so I can only assume the sensor at the oil filter is going to the PCM. The sensor behind the intake breaks very easily during engine install so maybe your's is bad. Mine looked good but when I checked it with an ohm meter is read shorted. Oh yeah that was a brand new sensor too!

Awesome, love the two tone scheme.

I'm sure it will come out better than my pitiful attempt at rattle can painting. I'm going to have to get my spoilers and rear valance painted by some one that knows what they're doing. I totally suck at body work and paint prep.

Glad to hear you're done Warren. I too am looking forward to actually making some runs this time. I have no clue how to drive this car on a strip so its going to be interesting to say the least. I have an in-car video mount in my car so I can record anything stupid I do, LOL.

Wow, that's an agressive schedule! I hope the weather cooperates but it doesn't loook good this weekend, rain tomorrow and cold Saturday. Good to hear you've got it running, rich or not. I can't wait to see that beast!

Congrats, nice job. Too funny about no big deal cutting a hole in the hood! Looking forward to some picts to see how the hood is finished.

Cool. When you're that close its hard to walk away to even eat or sleep. Good luck on that first key turn.

There are several of us here that have done the LT1 swap. Most are much more experienced with this sort of thing than I was. The JTR manual is very helpful, read it well and do EVERYTHING they say even if you don't think you need to, trust me on this. If I did this you can do this. I had never really attempted anything like this before and got though it without too much difficulty. I changed the entire 280Z harness to a Z28 engine and chassis harness but you really don't need to do that. I started with a pretty messed up chassis harness so it was just easier to gut it. You will need to reprogram the LT1 computer to match your new setup. Things like EGR, emissions, VATS removal if you doing that, tire size and gear ratio will also need to be changed. I bought almost everything I needed for the engine install from JTR, his prices are very competitive and in many cases cheaper. I got the engine and tranny mount adapters, headers, driveshaft flange and radiator from JTR. Motor mounts you can get from the parts store. If you're going to run AC you'll need to move the compressor to the driver's side so you'll have to make a bracket or buy one like Batman and I did. You'll also need to gut the power steering pump or make a delete pulley (nobody makes one). Another tip, if you are going to change the water pump anyway get one for a Corvette, it has one less hose fitting you don't need in the Datsun setup. If you don't you'll need to plug that fitting. Custom exhaust is pretty much left up to you and your exhaust shop. You'll need an electric fuel pump capable of supplying a FI engine at 40psi and a tank with baffles and a return line. I used the Z28 fuel tank with the internal pump, but it was one of the more difficult parts of the project to get in the car. Fuel lines need to be at least 3/8" up and 5/16" return. I did no modifications to the engine wiring other than removing the stuff (don't need it in Georgia). I lengthened the knock sensor wiring and moved the knock sensor to the other side of the engine. You can mount it on the JTR passenger setback plate but I didn't do that. I also had to lengthened the O2 sensor wiring on the driver's side. I did not use the Datsun gauges or ignition switch so you'll have to get that information from the JTR books. It really wasn't that hard to get the engine/tranny mounted and running. What took me a year was all the "while you're at it" projects, LOL. If you need information about the LT1 http://shbox.com/page/index.html has a wealth of information, schematics and locations of stuff and GM part numbers. Its basically for a '95 Z28 but I have a '94 and not much changed. There are some references to the '96 too. I have a diary of my progress at http://www.dejavideo.net/280z8/transplant.html . It gets a little long winded at times, but it might be some help in some areas. At least you can see the mistakes I made and problems I had and how I got through them. Good luck, if you have any questions drop me a PM I am happy to help where I can.

I found this site a while back, maybe there is some info in it for your case. http://www.lt1howto.com/articles/pcmtuning.htm Looks like your O2 sensors are the first place to start assuming your PCM knows you're at operating temp.

Then again the slots could just be decorative. I saw another set for Z28s made of aluminum and they didn't have slots either. Here's a pict, maybe it will give you some ideas. Looks like they mount theirs different.

I've been toying with that idea myself. I just got the plastic ones installed and like them but after seeing yours I'm thinking aluminum again. Thanks Jody, I need another project, LOL. One issue though, will the aluminum hold heat around the injectors and have some effect on them? Maybe some slots cut in them like the palstic ones would be a good idea.

I heard that Holley went into bankruptcy, could be the end of an era for hot rods.

I tried contacting them a couple moths ago. No replies from email and the phone was disconnected. I think they are out of business.

This is from http://shbox.com/ A fuel pressure test gauge can be bought at your local auto supply for ~$35. Attach it to the schrader valve that is on the fuel rail. Schrader valve location on 1994-1997 Normal pressure when the engine is not running and lines have been pressurized is 41-47 psi. This same pressure should be observed at wide open throttle (WOT). WOT can be simulated by removing the vacuum hose to the regulator at idle. At idle (because of the effect of the vacuum to the regulator) pressure will be less than what you observe with the vacuum line off. There may be anything from a 3 to 10 psi difference. NOTE: any indication of fuel in the vacuum line to the regulator, means the regulator is leaking and should be replaced. Check the line for fuel or the smell of fuel. To fully determine that you don't have a pressure drop off during actual WOT situations, you should tape the gauge to your windshield and take it for a test run. This will tell you if the pump can meet actual fuel flow demands at pressure and not just at a simulated WOT condition (as when removing the vacuum to the regulator). When you have a gauge connected and the pressure looks initially good and then bleeds off quickly when you shut the engine off, you can do a couple of tests to help you figure out where the pressure loss is. What the factory manual says to temporarily install, is a set of "fuel line shut off adapters" (probably something the normal guy is not going to have available). You remove the fuel lines from the rail and connect these valves in between. This lets you shut off either side of the lines for testing. You can do the same thing by pinching the flexible lines to shut them off, but risk breaking them. You might be able to do it (your risk) by using a needle nose vise grips and putting some scrap hose as cushions on the jaws. Then use that to clamp off the line just enough to seal it. Obviously, this is not the best way to shut off the lines and could result in breakage. Heat and age can make the hoses brittle. If you don't want to risk it, don't. It's just a suggestion. You can use the fuel pump prime connector for pressurizing the system (jumper 12v to it to run the pump). Watch your gauge as you jumper the prime connector. When you have good pressure remove the jumper and clamp off (or use shut off valve) the fuel supply line (3/8 pipe). If pressure holds, you have a leak on the feed line somewhere before it gets to the clamp (or shut off valve) or at the check ball in the pump. If it still goes down, release your clamp (or open shut off valve). Pressurize the system again, then remove the jumper and this time clamp (or shut off) the return line (5/16 line). If pressure holds, then the regulator is faulty. If pressure does not hold, you need to locate leaky injector(s). If you can't tell a leaky injector from reading the plugs, you can look and see if injectors are leaking by removing the fuel rail screws and pull the rail and all the injectors up, so you can see under them. Leave them over the injector ports. Pressurized the system and look under the injectors to see if any are dripping.

The popular after market pumps are 255L/hr which is 67GPH like Walbro but the stock ones are not the big. If your pump is putting out 45psi without the regulator and only 35 with the regulator logic tells me your reg is faulty.

From what I have read the OEM "in tank" fuel pump for TPI/LT1 has an operating rating of 50 PSI and 24 GPH. I am running the stock GM in-tank pump with my LT1. I have a greedy electronic pressure gauge which reads right at 39 psi all the time. The car pulls fine all the way to redline. Sounds like your pressure might be a little low. You might want to get a new regulator or get an after market adjustable one. What size fuel lines are you running? You want at least 3/8" up and 5/16" back. I am running 3/8" both ways.

I think the last minute thing is like Hot rod law! Looking good Wayne, I'm going to need the industrial strength ear plugs to shoot upclose video of that thing!

I did see it on Ebay for a slight discount a few months back, but it took forever to be delivered. http://www.stoprust.net/ says they are an autherized distributer and have free shipping. I have bought from them, no problems.