deja

Yes get rid of all that sound deadener. If there was rust under what you removed, odds are there's more. If there are no rust through places sand off as much as you can and then treat it with POR-15. IMHO I wouldn't rely on regular primer and paint. Then you can install sound deadener over the POR-15. The stuff is expensive but it is awesome stuff to stop further rusting. http://www.por15.com/ You can get it on EBay too, but it will get to you faster if you order straight from POR15.com. You can brush this stuff on or spray it, but trust me don't get any on you!

It shouldn't be a problem. The Camaro has it located in the corner of the right rear engine compartment and not really sealed against water coming in along the hood side.

Thats the stuff I linked in post #4.

Your problem may be more about drag coefficient and frontal area and the HP to over come it. This site has a calculator using a Camaro, don't know how accurate it is but you can plug in your own numbers. http://home.earthlink.net/~jonaa/topspeed.html

You sir are a wild man without a doubt. Good luck working out the bugs. Struts? You don't need no stickin struts. That thing will probably sit on its tail all the way down the track anyway, no need for front suspension!

It amazes me the auto industry relies on crimps. Solder is you friend. Have you seen this thread about dash fixes? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123189 Check out #13

Its looking good. I hope that tape isn't duct tape. I found out the hard way yesterday resin eats duct tape! What a big stringy mess, LOL!! Aluminum tape or even painters tape will hold up fine.

Don't ya hate learning those lessons the hard way. Glad is wasn't worse. Not all that much damage, at least it didn't bend the hood.

Have you tried this stuff? http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/productr.asp?pf_id=E-132&PRID=BAN_FROOGLE

It should be. I doubled mine in most areas. I don't know if its necassary but the stuff is pretty cheap so why not.

It goes on easy and is very light. I really haven't driven the car yet except for a quick couple runs up and down the street. But with no exhaust, carpet or even rear floors is tough to say if its any good. I used that tar based stuff before it it worked pretty well but it was heavy and not as easy to install. They may not be allowed by the manufacturer to mention the brand by name.

I'm with JBC3, make the hole bigger its going to save you hours of work. I shortened and lengthened a lot of wires when I swapped in the Camaro full chassis harness but there was no way I was going to attack the PCM wiring, just too many wires.

I don't know about a 260Z but the 280Z turn signal mounts are spot welded on. I thing there are at least 4 spot welds. Grind off the paint and you'll be able to see the spot welds, just drill them out. Not the easest place to get a drill but it can be done.

That won't be a problem as long as you solder them well, don't rely on crimp connectors for this. But you're talking about a ton on wires. I'd cut them one at a time so you don't get confused since many of these are the same color but go to different connectors. GM is good at keeping color code consistant but you never know. Also there is a grounding method and ground bundles should only be tired together at the chassis.

Thanks, test parts for sure.

Check message #11. Some online options: http://www.papermart.com/templates/39-0-20.htm?GOCMP=Papermart%5FCampaign+%231+%96+Main&GOMTC=Exact&GOKEY=floral+foam or http://www.afloral.com/Wedding?search=foam

Oh boy, more confusion, LOL. If I make the parts using polyester resin is it alright to then add a final coat of epoxy resin over top of that? I assume then I would not need the curing agent, is that correct?

Oh man, that is just too cool. Is going to look amazing under the hood.

One thing I read, don't remember where, is that you should hit the fiberglass with mold release when you are totally done to fully cure the resin. When using molds its the first thing you put in the mold. But building by laying glass its the last thing you do. Spray it or paint it on both sides, leave it for 6 hours and wash it off with water. You cna get it at most marine centers like west marine.

They had just finished developing those jacking plates when I got my rails. Let us know how they work out. Its hard to tell from the pict how they attach.

Are the frame rails buckled too? Thats what happend in my 280Z. Someone jacked the car up too many times using the frame rails, they crushed a bit and distorted the floor panels. I beat the floor back as flat as I could and installed baddog frame rails over the old ones.