deja

LOL, sorry but I can sort of relate. I was under my car grinding on something with only safety glasses on instead of the full face shield. For some reason I had my tongue sticking out. Hot sparks don't feel real good on your tongue! It took weeks for that to stop hurting.

To each his own. But I dropped that tank about 10 times during fabrication and that was with no fuel, no fuel lines, no exhaust and without the filler neck installed. I think it would be a PITA to remove if there is an alternative, at least in my car. I decided early on to have an access panel. It is large but it bolts to a frame and has sound deadener/heat shield on it just like the rest of the floor. I can get the assembly out now in about 10 minutes using only a powered screwdriver. Of course making the access panel assures me I will never have to use it, LOL.

That's why I made a removable panel in the floor for my LT1 tank. But in your case I'd drop the tank, then make an access panel before reinstalling.

I think its the first product on the site. 2 lb. Polyurethane Mix and Pour Foam. It isn't cheap at $119.95 http://www.fibreglast.com/showproducts-category-Fabric%20RacksFoam-156.html

Yahoo!!! Its a rush ain't it!

Wow, that is some amazing work. Use what you have, I couldn't agree more as long as you don't sacrifice safety. If you have the time, equipment, materials and talent making those yourself is very cool. When people ask which kit you used they will be blown away when you tell them you made it all. Personally I didn't have any of that so I bought mine, LOL.

I got baddog rails for my 280Z, awesome parts and very reasonable. http://www.baddogparts.com/

I'm only guessing at 10K-15K. I learned long ago if you have an expensive hobby never keep track of expenses, its just too scary. When I took up scuba diving 16 years ago I started a business shooting underwater video so I had to keep track for taxes. At the end of the year I was shocked how much I had spent. So when I got the 280Z and decided to do the LT1 swap and all those while you're at it projects I stopped keeping track pretty quickly. .

I hope you're right. I know you've been fighting this for a while when you have other things you want to accomplish.

I cut off the fin and attempted to grind the spot welds flat. But the metal is so thin most of them fell out before I could get them flat. Since I don't own a welder or even know how to weld I covered the holes witha strip of fiberglass and blended it. I also shaved the rest of the valance, again using fibergalls and filer. In the future I plan on a cover for it and a front air dam. But this will do for now.

ARGGGGG!!!! You said the dreaded Lucas word!!! That man should have been brought up on charges from UL, ! Anyone that has owned a British car has learned to hate anything made by Lucas. My Sunbeam Tiger caught fire due to one of their wonderful electric fuel pumps.

Holy crap, that is a major job. You and Mull should get together, hard to say whose project is bigger!

LOL, been there myself with an old Mr. Gasket shifter in my AMX. Did you see that guy on Pinks that forgot to lock his quick disconnect steering wheel and pulled it off at the launch? Too funny.

Sounds like you're progressing well. Good to hear about Grala's, they are just up the road from me. Well up I-85, but close. Looking forward to some picts.

83 watts? OMG you really think you need that bright of a tail light? Seems like you're going to blind anyone behind you. I don't know if there is a legal limit in Europe. But our DOT regulations are minimum 350 ft. visability for tail lights and 500 ft. for brake lights with no max. I've been behind some cars with LED factory lights that are damn bright

I got bulb replacement LEDs for '85 Corvette tail light sockets. I picked the wide angle ones, 18/100 degrees. http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/115x-x12x19.htm I got 1157 duel lights for the tail/turn and tail/brake lights. They recommend using red LEDS even if you're using a red lens. My lights are recessed about an inch so the wide angle part isn't all that necessary. I got them to be sure the light filled the lens without hot spots, seems to work. They offer a 12, 19 or 24 LED bulb for the 1157s, I can't remember which I got but I think it was the 19. Brightness is 8000, but from what I've read you really can't compare brightness numbers between incandescent bulbs and LEDs on that number alone. Here's a converter that might help. http://led.linear1.org/lumen.wiz

I don't think so. But the fuel pump will be shut off after about 10 seconds. Thats what the Ebay bypass module is for, to create the fuel pump enable that nornally comes out of the VATS. The fuel pump enable powers the fuel pump relay. If you're not using the GM fuel pump relay either you should be good to go, except for that check engine light. I spent a whole night figuring out the VATS becuase I wanted to keep it in place for some theft protection.

In a word NO. I went through this on my lt1, this is my writup on the VATS. Even though I don't have water in the engine or transmission fluid installed I thought I'd see if the starter would kick..............NO. When I had the PCM reprogrammed I left the VATS enabled and picked up one of those EBay bypass modules thinking that would eliminate the need for the GM key resistor. Well, I should have taken more time to fully understand how the VATS works. There are 4 inputs to the VATS, +12v always, +12v ignition switched in run and start, ground and 2 inputs from the resistor on the ignition key. There are 3 outputs, the security light, fuel pump enable and start relay enable. If you don't have the correct key nothing works! I was under the belief that the car would still start but the VATS would shut off the fuel after a few seconds. But that EBay bypass module does NOT take the place of the key resistor, it outputs the fuel pump enable so the PCM thinks there is a working VATS. Since I still want to use the VATS I measured the resistor in the Camaro key at xxx ohms with a spread of xxx - xxx, made a xxx ohm resistor combination to substitute for the key and installed it using a quick disconnect so I can remove it when I want to fully protect the car from theft. Resistor list: 1 402 ohms (acceptable range 386-438) 2 523 ohms (acceptable range 502-564) 3 681 ohms (acceptable range 650-728) 4 887 ohms (acceptable range 850-942) 5 1130 ohms (acceptable range 1085-1195) 6 1470 ohms (acceptable range 1411-1549) 7 1870 ohms (acceptable range 1795-1965) 8 2370 ohms (acceptable range 2275-2485) 9 3010 ohms (acceptable range 2890-3150) 10 3740 ohms (acceptable range 3590-3910) 11 4750 ohms (acceptable range 4560-4960) 12 6040 ohms (acceptable range 5798-6302) 13 7500 ohms (acceptable range 7200-7820) 14 9530 ohms (acceptable range 9149-9931) 15 11800 ohms (acceptable range 11328-12292) BTW if you still want that EBAY bypass module I'll sell you one cheap! I'm not using it.

OK. My manual is Feb 2004. It says the setback plates are 1/2" aluminum and the spacers are Aluminum or steel 1-1/16" for the passenger side and 2-1/16" for the driver's side. The spacer for lowering the crossmember is aluminum or steel and are 3/8".