Snailed

See if you can find a place to stay in brooklyn. I vist there a few times a year and it's cheaper to eat and shop in brooklyn and just take the train over to manhattan. It's a really short trip if youre already near the river.

I always put the nozzle(s) after the inercooler and have had really good results. Getting the water into the combustion chamber seems to make the most sense to me. Waters latent heat of vaporization is so much higher than fuel so using it to take heat out of the combustion chamber directly, rather than to just cool incoming charge air, makes sense to me. IF your goal is to make the turbo more efficent I really don't have any hands on experience with spraying pre-turbo but I'm suspicious of claims of compressor efficency in the range of 100%.

I didn't see a car...

Thats a good point. I have always used 5/16" or 1/4" vents with no problems on fuel tanks I have made. It makes me wonder what the idea behind the massive factory vent is. At one point there was a guy, getting paid, that designed the original system. I would like to think he knew what he was doing or that someone that did was checking his work. Maybe there were 10,000 extra hoses that nissan could source for half the price and some poor engineer was told to use them haha!

that's quite a booth you rigged up! how was the dust in your paint? I have seen such good paint jobs come from garages and barns with wetted floors that I know I would be too lazy to do all that.

The side with the terminals is the outlet.

It's a mechanical part, why should we have to infer what it is? I am constantly dealing with people that don't know if their 50 trim is a straight t3 or a hybrid...it's frusterating when the general car public doesn't even know what they are looking at but demand help. I get that it's an easy one to guess in this case but I was just pointing it out in hopes that the next guy might not just copy and paste from an ebay ad. It's a dying dream

I would not add any pearl to that color at all. See if they have any purple "bass boat" metal flake...if they don't, just do the regular red

This is just a vent, right? so no real pressure? I'm thinking 1/2" copper pipe is .625"OD so you could just make the part that bends sharply out of a few bucks worth of plumbing stuff and use the 5/8" fule hose you already have to connect it with some clamps.

huh? he didn't even mention what manufacturer, frame or wheels this turbo has. It could be a 40lb/min wimp or a 190lb, 2000hp monster.

I agree with you guys, non of that stuff applies to my project though. I have an s13 rear subframe that I will be modifying to use under my 240z. I plan on building everything from the front rails to the rear subframe mounts from scratch...it needs floors anyway. So as a result, the wheel will be centered. I might even move it back a little more than that depending on what I come up with for flares.

I'm planning on mounting my rear suspension with the wheel centered in the opening. The wheelbase is almost too short so an extra inch or two won't hurt.

One thing to add to the inital post - In addition to spark, fuel and air, you need compression for an engine to run. Bent valves, broken valvetrains, broken camshafts or a timing belt or chain slip can cause you to have 0 dynamic compression. I have fixed a couple twin cam engines where the owner simply didn't set the cam to cam mechanical timing correctly and the motor would not run.

jesus, stop starting it haha. First, does it have oil in it? I would get under it and look around for big leaks if not. Put a new gauge directly on the engine and see if it agrees with the one inside. Do the radiator hoses get hot? Do those v12s have an enternal hose from the block to the filter like the I6 motors? oil cooler lines ok? Drop the pan and check the pickup for trash. Also check where it connects to the pump for leaks.

This is a little project I did at work. We were putting a 2006 6.1L Hemi drivetrain into a '49 Plymouth and needed some custom reservoirs. It's 1/8" 3003 welded with 4043 and I made the fittings from 6061. The inlet is baffled and I also pressure tested it to 20psi. Machine is a Dynasty 300.

Why can't some business owners/managers realize this? It seems like logic but it's somewhat rare to find someone smart enough to let the people he hired, do what they do.

Nice, I'm surprised they weigh that much. The ones on my car feel so light when you open and close them...but youre the one with the scale. If you are going to just use the stock hinges, maybe you could grind or mill the mounting plates thinner to save some more weight?

Yeah, gpopshop is really good. I have rebuilt a few turbos with their parts and the tech support over the phone is the best. No secrets like some of the other parts suppliers. Their number is (479) 751-7966

That's too funny!

You're assuming that the pickup is the biggest restricton, which it is not. There should be no flow loss with the smaller ones since it was never maxed out to begin with. I would just use it.

What makes you uneasy about it?

Does the fuel pump prime for a few secconds with the key on? Try cycling the key a few times to build up fuel pressure before starting. If it starts, than you may have a leak somewhere externally (line, fitting, injector etc.) or back into the tank through the pump. What pump(s) are you running?

I say you had 450 shifts left. nice catch.

A very light and inexpensive way to make hinges is to use an L shaped piece coming off the door jamb made with a 3/8" rod facing up and a 1/2" rod going into the body of the car. Then on the door you can fit plates and drill them to hold a 3/8" heim jont with nuts on both sides. The door just simply slides down over the vertical stud and the heims give you adjustment to center the door in the opening and a nice smooth pivot. I have done this on a couple fiberglass doors and it works really well for less than $50 here is the same idea but without the heim pivot, just a piece of tube.