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383 240z

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Everything posted by 383 240z

  1. Thanks for the input I was bored the other day and cut the lower perch off the late 260 tubes just to practice who sells the over sized tubes for the large sstruts? Keith
  2. I have three sets of strut tubes here. One is from a 72 240, the next is from a late 74 260 and the last is from a 78 280 2+2. The 240's are of a much smaller diameter than the other 2. Which set would be the best set to use for a coil-over set-up on my street/strip project? I would like to use as many off the shelf parts as possiabe I dont have acess to a machine shop on a regular basis Please help!!! Keith
  3. The mityvac system is very good quality. I've owned mine for about 5 yaers and use it on a regular basis (I am a professional auto tech) the torque angle meter you asked about is for torque to yeild bolts. These are VERY different than the bolts that are torqued to a ft lb. with these bolts you are told to tighten them to a spec.torque then turn them a given number of degrees these are used as head bolt on some engines(and other applications) and can only be used ONCE then are discarded. Keith
  4. The mazda is coming along very well I need to get it on the road REAL soon I'm tired of driving my iroc (it is the slowest car I own) the datsun is in limbo for a while due to a lack of funds. Check thw mazda out at http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/rx7260z/lst?.dir=/V-8+RX-7&.view=t It has a 350/700R4 in it the motor is a little warmed over should be a nice daily driver! Keith
  5. OK now I have another question. How far back should I turn the motor? I just pulled six degrees out of the air I do not know what the spec's are on the motor I suspect is mostly stock it has 468642 heads and 4-bolt mains but I have no clue on the cam or pistons. new pix for anybody who wants to see http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/rx7260z/lst?.dir=/383+240z&.view=t Lone check out this site http://www.torquecentral.com/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&forumid=11 Keith
  6. Did these come stock on any cars? is is this just a high dollar aftermarket part. I want to grab one from a boneyard for a carbtuner I have. Keith
  7. Here are a few pix of my cage http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/rx7260z/lst?.dir=/383+240z&.view=t let me know if you need a better shot of any area I used swing out door bars for ease of entry exit (mainly to appese the wife but it was a DAMN GOOD idea) Keith
  8. Here are a few pix of the conversion for your enjoyment Lone http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/rx7260z/lst?.dir=/V-8+RX-7&.view=t I haven't updated them for a while but you can get the idea. I should be driving it home from the exhaust shop next week!! Keith
  9. Kevin and Lone thank you both. The motor is all ready broken in ( it was rebuilt by a friend about 2 years back) I bought it from him and dropped it into my RX-7 the Datsun is sitting on her side on my rotisserie waiting for the funds the rx is a side project that I started out of nessecity The rotor motor was blown and I was not gonna spend $2000 on another motor that only makes 175 HP and 132ftlbs! I put less than 2G into the whole conversion and have over 300HP!! I have started the motor and I had the timing off a bit but let me tell you the sound of open headders rumbling through my shop was AWESOME it scared the hell out of the neighbors. Keith
  10. look on the case pass side rear the first digit will be the year if you post the entire number I will decode it for you and give you the spline count Keith ps are you going to canfeild on sat?
  11. OK I put the motor in set the balancer to TDC on the compression stroke now how EXACTLY to I drop in the dizzy? Do I back the balancer down 6deg's or do I back the dizzy down? Or do I point the rotor at No#1 and leave the balancer at TDC? Please help I cant wait to start this motor!!!!! Keith
  12. now I'm confused what wire are you looking for? please give some more info Keith
  13. Lokar makes a very nice flexiable tube one style mounts to the block the other mounts to the firewall. If you want to make a rubber to metal union PLEASE double flare the steel line if not the sharp edge will eat away at the rubber from the inside and will pop a bad leak about 30 miles from any place for a repair also if you are going to run a long strech of rubber line use zip ties to hold them together and make sure it is transmission hose fuel line just can't take the heat and psi. Keith
  14. I cant think of a horsepower advantage just a cleaner engine bay and some more fan clearance (your car is a bit tight on that if I remember right) not sure were you can source one other than the CNC shop you happen to work in!!! Keith
  15. Take a look at your vacuumme modulator It is on the pass side rear of the unit if you have an A4LD pull the hose off and look for a drip of atf somtimes the diaghphram fails and manifold vac.pulls fluid up the tube and it burn in the motor Keith
  16. The VERY complete version of hoe the TC gets charged is as follows. When the engine cranks,the flywheel turning the TC manually drives the pump,atmossphric psi forces ATF through the filter,to the pump out the exhaust ckt of the pump to the face of the PSI regulator valve which restricts the flow building a back psi. This back psi builds charging the pump,TC,(which turns the input shaft) & all related oil ckts including the manual valve body. This psi is known as main line psi, it will continue to build until the spring behind the valve collapses, opening the exhaust ckts and returns the excess oil back to the pan. There is no chiken and egg needed this is what happens I spend every day at work up to my elbows in pink oil building Automatics Keith
  17. Dave step away from the keyboard go out to the shop and pick up a wrench. Some nito exhaust fumes and some tire smoke are the only known cure for you ailment!!!! Keith
  18. The TC fills after 15 seconds of running I would not worry about it just make sure you have enough fluid in the case it sounds like you are low. If you are full up, check your main line psi first before you pull the unit.If you did burn the converter you will need to check the trans cooler for debris if it did not get lodged there the next place is the valvebody unless you installed a filter in line on the return line from the cooler.You did install one right? The fluid goes from the pan to pump,then converter,to the cooler then the valvebody then lube ckts and the planetarys so if the converter dies it can take the rest of your "new" rebuild with it!! Keith
  19. I was wodering if anybody had a photo of a early ZX rad w/measurements I need a rad for another project I'm working on just a rough idea on max width and height with hose locations will help much Keith
  20. Ever think of having you machinest turn one for you from bronze? You will just have a bushing instead of a bearing! Keith
  21. I found the best way to get rid of a toy is to trade it for another toy that sombody is tired of I dumped my IROC for a built jeep CJ w/ 33-12.50's I could not sell it for $1200 but I got a jeep that he blew about 6 grand on and we were both VERY happy to have new toys Keith
  22. I was wonder about the effectivness of mounting an electric fan in front of my rad and wiring it as a pusher. I do not have enough room to mount it on the engine side. any thoughts as to the problems this may create? No this is not for the datsun but my "other project" would like to have a drink of nice cold water!! Keith
  23. Hey scottie I can not find the info you posted to me about my FC regarding rear wheels what if any info do you have about rear chassis setup (I'm running a mild 350 but have more motor as soon as the chassis is sorted out) Keith
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