383 240z

Sorry I miss typed(actually I got the cam cards screwed up) the crane cam tech line explained to me that my goals and my parts were mutually exclusive. they recommended an Energizer 100132 cam with a different intake a 2500 stall converter and a 600 carb and 1:6 rockers my other option is 10.5 pistons a powermax 114561 with a 3k converter and 1;6 rockers. I'm thinking the 9.5:1 will support the gears, let me run a decent stall converter and be able to put the car through the lights at over 100MPH in the lower half otf the 13 sec range. (my overall goal) Keith

OK my problem was I had a 350 with a 8.21:1 static CR. After following the advice I was given on this site I did a BUNCH of reading. I think that my problem was with the low CR I had to get rid of my 4:11 gears. or get a cam so big that I would need a VERY high stall conveter. So I decided to buy some new pistons. A set of +.030 hyper pistons with an advertised CR of 9.7:1. My 64cc heads with new Z-28 springs (120lbs on the seat) and an Edelbrock RPM intake and a 750 vac 2ndry Holley. The other variables are TH-700R4 with a 2000k converter in a 3000lb car with 4:10 or 3:90 rears on 245/50/15 tires does this sound about right? Keith

I have not worked in a dealership for quite a while but we had a system for warranty claims. The dealer had to enter the VIN into a database to start the paper work to get a rep to look at a car. if the claim was rejected the next dealer that entered the same vin got a copy of the report and was told to deny the claim Keith

I've had good luck with a small amount of valve lapping compound on the tip of the screwdriver. it provides a good grip between the blade and screwhead. That and the penetrating oil ( I use PB Blaster) should do the trick. Keith PS an air drill makes no sparks.

Ok I've read the links and your latest post and It is starting to make sense to me I'll be posting a decision soon thank you for helping me with this. I did a bunch more math and I relized that what I need is not what I THOUGHT I needed. Keith

I have those books I've read them each several times. Just from them I have gained a TON of knowledge in thery But in practice I have very little knowledge plus it is pretty hard for me to put down a couple hundred dollars and hope I got it right The first motor I built was a HUGE disapointment. since then I've read just about every book I could find. Now I'm just more than a bit gun-shy plus the wife is starting to see what this car is costing us. my company just went to forced direct deposit! I sent crane cams an info sheet (after your recomendation) I just hope I can get this all to work I'll read the links you sent after work on mon. Keith

Kevin I just faxed crane cams an info sheet looking for a cam rec. I think that I can use my low comp pistons I'm just looking at all the options. I pulled the motor this morning so I could measure the CR for a cam swap. I was upset that the motor was not what I was led to believe it was. I changed the intake and carbed it for a higher compression motor. I hope there is a way to leave the pistons in the car. Keith

the tooth count MUST match your starter the hub was changed when GM went to the one piece rear main seal. the tooth count has nothing to do with this change. your motor is of the 2 piece style Keith

I have a 350 SBC with low compression pistons. I put a piston at TDC a measured the volume at 25.5cc. The highest part of the piston is .030 down in the bore. and the smallest chamber heads I have read 64.5cc. The gasket is 9.1cc (I got that from the Fel-Pro catalouge) my math says that makes it a 8.21:1 CR. is it possiable to make any power with this? the other variables are 3000lbs car weight 700r4 w/stock stall, 4.11:1 rear with 205/50/15 tires. I have small tube headers with mufflers an Edelbrock rpm intake and a 750 holley with vac 2ndrys. I hope you dont tell me I NEED new pistons as it will take a while to save up for them Keith

Thanks Jim just kick me while I'm down Keith

Well here is the bad news. with the piston at TDC I get a cylinder volume of 25.5cc my head gasket volume of 9.1cc and the heads I'm planning on using measure 64.5cc if my math is right (please feel free to double check me) my compression ratio is 8.21:1 Is there any way to make decent power with this ratio? or do I have to pop for new pistons? I can find a cheap set of cast pistons with rings on E-Bay for about $100 (sealed power w/ cast rings. The wife is getting PISSED if I spend any more money on this car she is going to kill me!!! what started as a simple cam swap is turning into a total rebuild. Keith

The DJ got it right the ring around the outer edge is higher than the middle portion the pistons in my 327 are flat with 4 vr's Keith

I have that book Mike I'll consider that. I cant spend the money on upgrades right now if you look at my other thread you will see the pistons I'm working with, dished with 4 reliefs yech!! I would be pretty happy with 325 hp and a shot of NOS! Keith

I have stock rods on a stock 350 crank. I need to run this motor on 87 octane But I still need it to make some HP. Keith

I have a buret here so I will set it up and cc them in the morning you can see a photo of them here http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/rx7260z/vwp?.dir=/V-8+RX-7&.src=ph&.dnm=DSC01930.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/rx7260z/lst%3f%26.dir=/V-8%2bRX-7%26.src=ph%26.view=t I bought the motor at a swap meet it looked pretty well taken care of and was priced right and was complete oh well Keith

I was told the motor had flat tops when I bought it but buyer beware I found dished pistons with 4 valve reliefs. yuck!!! I have a set of 64cc heads will this bring my compression to a livable level. I'll cc the pistons tomorrow and see what I get. Now this will really change my cam choice. I hope I'm not screwed as I dont have the money for new pistons right now. Keith

I'm looking into the crane enegizer series cam sets I have dual z-28 springs on a set of 64cc 194/150 heads casting number 3782461. I'll be pulling the engine apart to day to cc the pistons so I can find the true ratio. I ran the combo on dd200 and was comfortable with the power output using my 441 heads I was using the lt-1 cam. I'll need this motor to run on 87 octane gas and I'll be using an L-35 converter in my 700r4 with a 4:10 gears in a 2900lb car. Keith

I found a set of heads that I bought awhile back the casting number is 3782461 I'm not sure if they have hardend valve seats. If they don't can I use them if I add lead replacement every time I fill up the tank? If not what can I do to use them on the street in my daily driver? If I need to take them to the machine shop what should this cost me? Keith

I'm looking to buy a cam here but as always my funds are limited. I've been looking at the cheap ones in summit (the house brand) and those wolverine/blue racer made by Cranecams and the SSI that PAW sells and the Elgin brand. They are all under $100 with lifters. Summit tells me they don't last very long but did not tell me how long they do last. I've talked to some circle track guys here who run the blue racers but they change cams about 7 times a season. I'm not looking to build a killer motor just a fun street motor to take to the track once in a while. I don't want to spend $2-300 on the perfect cam as I like to play with the timing, jets, and carb to much. I guess I'm looking for some one to tell me that these cams are OK but not going to live forever. I know they wont give me the best in power. But if they are total JUNK please let me know I dont want to hurt the heads or pistons! Thanks a bunch Keith

I'm not sure what the differences are. I think one is a KM 75 the other is a KM 130 the bearing you found is most likley a torrington thrust bearing I would take a long look at the two trans and see if they are that close. I DO NOT think they will work (the shift stratigies are VERY different) Do you have ready access to the hollender manual for 87 imports? I need to find out if the carrier in the diff is the same for 3:9's as the 4:10's. Sorry I could not be more helpful. Keith

You would have to be one hell of a person to get my wife to give up her Jeep GC! Does she need it for her drive to and from work? No BUT on the weekends it tows the cars to the track,runs us into the moutains (she has more fun offroad with it than I do) we use it at the farm for pulling logs, stretching fence, hauling hay, moving horses etc. She even had a sticker made for the back glass that reads DATSUN SUPPORT VEHICLE She wont let me sell it and buy a 3/4 ton truck because then I would have all the fun cars. As for gas mileage I agree with Denny it is my money if I want to spend it on fuel so be it. If I wanted fuel econmy I would buy a PRIUS Keith

With those hop-up prices I think I'll stick with the 383 I have sitting here. It has all the machine work done new forged pistons and detailed con rods and a cast crank I'll just have to buy a killer set of heads and a matched cam. oh well Same old story speed costs how fast can you afford?? Keith

I'm considering buying a used motor. After a serious bout with cabin fever I started pricing take out motors not that bad when I factor in the cost of the parts I still need for the 383. The question is, what are the differences between the LS1 LT1 LS6 etc? What is the best to adapt for the Z cars? I'm one that cant leave well enough alone, so what one is the best to mod, and at what costs? I'm looking for around 400 RWHP @ 400 FT LBS RWTQ. is this out of line with the new style motors? Keith

Thats too COOL!!!!

If you dont want to kill the boot I would recomend a BFH and hammer away on the knuckle, NOT THE PIN. after a few good hits it should pop loose. I pull several lower ball joints like this EVERY DAY. It takes a healthy swing, you are tring to vibrate the joint apart. If you can but tension on the joint it WILL help. Keith