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thehelix112

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Everything posted by thehelix112

  1. I'm with Jon. 225 is about right for an 8" while 205 or so for a 7". You don't want bulging of the tyre around the rim because it'll just slop around all over the place. Now given an 8" rim is actually 9" wide: (8+1)*25.4 = 228.6mm FWIW I have fit 8" rims on the front of my zed with std coils and guards. As fastzcar said the trick with a coil over is not only to reduce the size of the coil, but to get the lower perch above the tyre. Doing some rough measurements on this I think it'll be possible to squeeze 9.5-10s on the front, with the same on the rear. Going to take a hit in droop because of the reduced spring length, especially for the rate that I want to run, but its mostly for the track, so I don't mind. Dave
  2. I've got a stock long block atm save ARP head studs and a very mild cam. Will let you know. It would also seem to be a matter of what you use it for. A track raced car is going to break something a lot sooner than a street car I would have thought. 26psi would be awesome! I hope to get it up around 22psi on 98 octane pump fuel. Also, the harder you rev it the more likely it is to break, which is another saving grace of forced induction, you don't need to spin them overly hard. My redline is set at 6500 atm, mainly due to my baby cam. What are other peoples at? Dave
  3. Mine has a spring washer. That plus loctite should be fine. Dave
  4. I know a fellow here has the VG30DETT gearbox behind a supercharged 1UZ. Unsure if hes run it yet but that sounds promising. I think they're in the indestructible category for street, but for racing, well.. depending how you treat it it might last a season or two. Look forward to progress, Dave
  5. Oh and I forgot to say congratulations. Enjoy the 1st drive! Dave
  6. Loud is only loud on the street. Dave
  7. Fair enough. I would be very surprised if most new turbos weren't assembly balanced. Dave
  8. How on earth would you balance a wheel? AFAIK the only way you balance is with the nuts, implying you always balance as an assembly. Dave
  9. Can you make up another bracket that puts the actuator closer to the flap lever? Dave
  10. The t3 housing should still be internal wastegated. I thought you were just talking about bolting the actuator on? Dave
  11. No ******* Idea. You're up for a new dump it sounds like. Dave
  12. You might be able to simply swap over the T3 side from your old turbo if its a similar size. I have NFI re wastegate lining save: a, didn't it come with one, and b, won't the one from your old turbo bolt on? Downpipe, yes custom. 3" at the start with a splitter to separate the wastegate and main wheel flow out of the housing. Dave
  13. Richard you are obsessed with light weight engines. Additional crank strength, plus the best dampener you can buy, is more important to a track car's power production than an extra 300cc. BTW, if you're spending what it takes to make 500rwhp in a track car, I would be investigating the thick walled blocks, and either overboring, or sleeving the block and offset grinding the crank. Should get you up close to 3200 or so and still have a nice bore/stroke and also DOHC heads. GT35R will scream away nicely with 3200-3300cc. Dave
  14. Yeah it works for me? Maybe upgrade to the latest windows media player or something? I don't know, I don't use windows. Dave
  15. Sorry, I interpretted argument in the context you used it as ``the logical support of an opinion'', which I didn't really see. An elderly gentleman you know doesn't do it? Is that the extent of the support for your opinion? Dave
  16. preith, Where is the argument? Dave
  17. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ What he said. http://www.jrcarparts.com/vidz/Dave240ZCalder.wmv is me going around a local track. Its not revving that high as yet but still pulls (on a measley 10psi). Dave
  18. Matt, Makes sense. Thanks for the informative post. Dave
  19. If you've got the choice between crower and cunningham and the difference is only $23, there is no choice. Dave
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