BLOZ UP

Front strut bar installed; car seems more solid. Roll center spacers installed; steering wheel no longer pulls drastically going over bumps. Launch control wired in correctly; bang bang.

Oh ok. So, to correct my post: Any noise you hear when shifting is because your turbo is flowing more air then your engine can use so you need to replace the turbo or port your head to flow more. Despite being caused by two completely different things we'll just lump it all together so Tony D can keep things going here.

Finished the wastegate plumbing. Turned out nice. Somewhat difficult to remove and install, but nothing has to be moved out of the way, so I'll count my blessings. I used a slip fitting which was a much nicer quality steel then my bends. The bends were also thinner, and I blew through it. Big blob in the picture above. Stealth mode activated. It's much nicer now. At WOT it sounds like a normal car flooring it, no longer the screaming nonsense that attracts every cop in a 5 mile radius. Also broke traction in second gear most of the time. Don't remember it doing that on clean pavement before... I also correctly wired in my launch control clutch switch... but it ain't working correctly.

I was trying to differentiate between the 'surge' of the compressor flowing more than the engine can handle under WOT (or near WOT or whatever), and the 'surge' of when the engine/compressor inertia still flowing air against a closed throttle plate (I'm assuming his diesel has one). Browsing over the beginning of the thread again, I don't see what the big deal is.

Added a strut bar: I like how my fenders noticeably move when I tighten/loosen it up.

No, pretty sure I didn't use a thesaurus. What's wrong with what I said? If you are pushing air and it has no where to go from a lack of a relief valve, your compressor slows down real quick. That's what I meant by stall.

Is it stock? Recirculating valve. Completely normal. Can't really hear anything though. "Genuine" surge will be at certain RPMS under load, not when you shift. Weird noises when you shift are either blow off/recirculating valves or compressor stall due to flow reversion (and maybe a combination of the two). Not likely to happen on a stock vehicle.

What boost pressure was that? 15psi?

Started my wastegate plumbing. What a pain. This took all day: But it all worked out well, it fits nicely and I'll be able to bring it back around up to the wastegate and even possibly fit the expansion joint on it:

So if it's not for the track, it's for what? To make street driving less safe?

No, but it makes it a lot more bearable when I do take it out.

Unlimited towing from Hagerty.

1.48 60'...

Seems like this would only be feasible on a mass production scale. Otherwise shipping a car back and forth will likely make it more expensive than if you paid someone domestic.

Got the strut bar and spacers the other day, but the strut bar is a rear instead of the front, so another one is on the way. Was going to install the spacers but I ran out of time... They are from Techno Toy Tuning and are really high quality.

Eh? For serial? Typically: Setup dyno days for $25 a pull with an air/fuel readout for people who just want a sheet with numbers on it. Then learn all the various ECU's or outsource the tuning to someone else reputable on your dyno for $100/hour or so, I've been looking for one near me, but it looks like dyno time here in NJ is more expensive too, compared to TX. $50/hour to tune it myself on a mustang dyno back there versus $200/hour here.

Eh? Yours looks like someone else's more than mine? Plus, I've fixed mine so it has legit hangars and hugs the body now. Don't seem to have pics. Maybe someone should start a thread.

Yeah they fall off pretty quick after 5500. You can mitigate it with cams, valves, and such but only so much. Mine was 300+ ft-lbs, 440 max: That's at 91 octane. 12:1 across the board. Crappy front mount log manifolds. I'd really like to see if my tubular manifolds make a difference, as the rest of my setup in my current 280Z is pretty similar to the old setup that graph is from.

Ah, I see. So you're getting the 3-3/8" for the center gauges?

No one's tried the 3-3/8" gauges?

A couple of updates. Ordered a TTT front strut bar and bump steer spacers. Also got some 1.5" pipe to route my wastegate dump into my exhaust. For plumbing the wastegate, it's kind of a hard decision. I wanted to plumb it in past the vband (further downstream), right into a nice 15 degree bend. This would minimize the bends in the wastegate tube, but will make removing the downpipe pretty much impossible without removing the brake shield, and possible the driver side exhaust manifold. So, to plumb it before the v-band, it will require two 180 degree turns, and look pretty crazy. I have a slip over joint that needs to go on as well, but it looks like I should be able to fit it all on there. Should be interesting. I need a machine shop to mill out a hole for the notched wastegate tube to mate to, the stainless 3" pipe seems to have hardened. I'm really looking forward to the car being "quiet" at full boost.

Ah, I missed that. The title and the beginning of that opening said power, I must have skimmed over the torque part for the spread. So, it seems a lot more possible now, maybe you could get a 3500-6500 spread of torque. I got a 3500-6000 of 300+ ft-lbs. of torque with just turbo, intercooler, intake and exhaust.

First, your requirement for SAE power is kind of weird. It's not applicable to turbo cars, you should be using uncorrected to get a more "accurate" reading. Second, if the difference between 'making' your required 400hp is the difference between STD and SAE correction factors, there are other issues. Second: 400hp across 3000 RPM? Not going to happen on the single cam. At least, it's not going to be usable. You'd have to make a peak 600+ HP to have any powerband like that, and that would mean wild cams and a completely unusable lower end. I made 400+ ft-lbs. across 1000 RPMs, and that was at 18psi. With cams you could extend that out 500 RPM, with some headwork maybe 200 more... I just don't see it going to a 3000 wide torque peak. If you want that, get an LS. They can do 400 HP plateaus with intake, headers, cam and a tune. To even approach this you would have to spend enourmous amounts of time and effort on the heads, which is the limiting factor. After 5000 RPM, the VG can't breath very well. At 7000 RPM or higher, you better have a solid valvetrain or you will have problems. So that limits you to what? 4000-6000 RPM to make all that power? Not going to happen. Change your criteria to 1000RPM wide, 400+ HP and I can show you plenty of examples.

For RPM dynos need some kind of knowledge of the car's engine speed, or in some cases the gear ratios. Some dynos can tell you to hit a specific speed/rpm and calculate it before the run, others have optical hookups to the crank (most accurate and reliable in my experience), and some have inductive triggers on a spark plug wire. I don't like looking at the speed ones, but if you know the gearing and the gear it was run in (usually 4th), you can calculate RPM. It's one more step for the shop to hook it up, a lot are lazy.

You could also measure the intake and exhaust manifolds pressures during a pull and see how likely reversion is.