BLOZ UP

I like this. People who use pickup truck beds as trailers are my hero.

I know. It's not really built for autocross, and I'm a terrible driver. What really surprised me is that I made it not only there, not only through all my runs, but I also made it back home.

I need a new seat and possibly a harness, I was flying around in the stock one. That and new brakes, it's pretty hard to lock these tires up. Best run (sort of): Spin 1: Spin 2: Outside view: I need a GoPro.

Autocross! 18 pounds of boost! Fun! First run with just 12psi - 58s Turn up the boost to 18psi - 52s So clearly I need to run as much boost as possible. It dried out for my other heat; I have a few more runs where I spun out that I'll put up later. Best event time was 49.814, I had to leave early so I missed 2 extra runs. Sucks, because my friend in a 2013 Dodge Charger boat beat me with a 49.5. Here's my most aggressive run in the rain: Hit the last cone in the last slalom, right before the finish. Carried it to the pits.

AVS video editor from AVS4U or something like that. Kind of shady website and name, but the software's decent (and cheap). Other video editors I tried were either too complex or simple.

So the EMS crew can easily remove you body after being impaled by the steering wheel, yeah.

Yes I'm aiming for 11.5, but I didn't get a chance to tune any more.

Finished up most of the carpet, still a little trim to do. Took it to work without incident, although the fuel pump did not like sitting in traffic. Went to the track a couple days ago, didn't get enough runs in to really tune it well in high boost, and the more fuel I took out the more spark blow out I seemed to have. The first run it bottoms out the AFR to 9:1 (I'm assuming from previous tuning sessions, I didn't get a chance to datalog since after waiting 2 hours in the staging lanes I had zero warning before our lane was told to go up). I pulled a little fuel and got it to 10.0 to 10.2 on the second run (much less smoke), but experienced lots of misfires in 3rd and 4th so it's hard to trust the datalog. [sharedmedia=videos:videos:209] On the drive home it was still missing in boost, even low boost, so I might have broken something. I will check the plugs and hopefully still be able to go to the autocross tomorrow.

Do want!

Congrats, me jelly.

I need an extra brake switch from a Z31 chassis (or any chassis that has a connector with it). I think they're all the same size, M12 or so.

Is it steel or aluminium? What kind of baffles does it have? I'm very tempted to make my own tank, probably SS since it's easier to weld, and have it fit like stock but with small sump.

I've since tied it down and added some heat shielding, but I don't really like it there. I'm thinking about moving that fuse block to the interior. It's some car audio block with 4 AGU fuses. 1 80A for the alternator, the rest are 40 A or something like that.

Determined that cylinder 6 is usually not firing, and fouls plugs all the time. So, to patch this problem up temporarily while rebuilding the 3.3L, I gapped it at .060" (instead of the stock 0.045" or whatever), and it isn't fouling anymore it seems. Then, I road tuned the car at 18psi with a friend. Got my AFR up from <10:1 to around 12:1, and it haaauuuuuls now. Yesterday I put most of the rest of my heat shielding crap on my the master cylinder's metal heat shield. It gets pretty hot after running, so I thought this might not be a bad idea. I'm entered for an August 3rd autocross. Slightly worried that my fuel pump might call it quits again, but this is likely the last event I'll be able to attend this year.

Yep. Not a big fan of Aeromotive. Their regulators are cheaply made and overpriced. Fuel pump crap has been all my fault, but I'm switching to Fuel Lab anyway for the built in PWM, whenever I have some spare cash.

I'm not sure, someone with more experience would have to chime in. How is your tach triggered currently in your car?

I'm looking to get Speedhut's 2-5/8" gauges to replace my stock center 3 gauges. I see the Speedhut now offers 3-3/8" as a size. Has anyone tried those in the center? It looks like you'd not be able to use the original bezel and gauge housing.

The shoulder check is necessary to see cars two lanes out that might be coming toward the lane next to you. It seems less so now that I have the Ford 'blind-spot' mirrors, but I still do it as well. Especially when coming up to non-parallel roads, merges, or curves with small enough radii.

I have a MSD coil of some type, but I'm not using a tach adapter. This is on my 280Z. I am running Megasquirt, but the tach is triggered from the coil's negative.

Have you noticed that car manufacturers seem to make their mirrors so that setting them the proper way is sometimes at the limit? My 01 Pathfinder, with me behind the wheel, would have them set right at the motor limit. Then they would look all angled wonk in the housing. My '12 Focus has 'blind spot mirrors' that the owner's manual even states is to 'eliminate blind spots in your rear quarters'... I set the mirrors correctly in it and I have my entire rear 180 covered by mirrors or peripheral. But, I still use the so-called blindspot mirrors to look two lanes over for cars merging into the same lane as me.

Don't get me started on "blind spots" which are basically mirrors set incorrectly. Few cars actually have blind spots if you set the mirrors correctly... but that would require looking at them in the first place...

There's a couple signs at Fort AP Hill: "Accidents don't just happen, they are caused" "The 3 causes of an accident: I didn't see, I didn't know, I didn't think"

I can believe this to a point. Who was it that said, "This is what you get when you have a incentive to build cars that can crash at higher and higher speeds without injury" or something like that? Thing is, the people who want to do anything but drive while driving are going to be replaced by autonomous cars very soon.

Ok, not a bad deal. Still don't like optisparks though.

Since last time, I've done a few things: Redid middle part of exhaust, added more hangars; it's a lot better. Fuel pump overheated/was clogged/something and the car died from lack of fuel pressure Fixed my fuel sending unit Fuel pump has fixed itself (or eaten whatever clogged it), and doesn't whine abnormally any more (!?) Put in and finished nearly all the carpet Started rebuilding a VG33 from a Frontier The exhaust was hanging too low, so I remade part of the downpipe and middle section, as well as part of the rear. It hugs the car now and never* dips lower than the frame rails. (*Ok, one of the hangar clamps is lower, but that is an easy fix.) Not sure what happened but my fuel pressure dropped and the car died whilst driving. Very annoying. Almost got to take advantage of my free towing, but then car magically started working again. Made it home, opened up the inspection lid and noticed it was half full. Also noticed that sending unit wire was cut for some reason. Fixed the sending unit, got gas, and it's been working ever since. Working better, since now it doesn't whine incessantly anymore. I mean, it's still loud, but it doesn't modulate and sound like a dying sheep. I also started on the carpet, which has been pretty involved. Just need to trim and tuck it up near the firewall and it's done. Pulled apart a Frontier engine I've had for a little while. I thought it was going to be somewhat wasted but other than a bit of oil coking, the bearings are all clean. I'm going to drop it off at a machine shop to clean it all, possibly polish the bearing surfaces if needed, and check the rods and pistons and put in some ARP rod bolts. Just a stock build should be fine for a while.