BLOZ UP

I wonder if that exclusion "While employed or otherwise engaged in the "business" of: a. Selling; b. Repairing; c. Servicing; d. Storing; or e. Parking; vehicles designed for use mainly on public highways. This includes road testing and delivery." Includes when you are working on your personal time on your own car, and road testing it...

Oh, but they (at least Hagerty) definitely don't cover any racing events, or even accidents in the paddock.

I have read it; I could not find anything to contradict what they say. Also, I remember a particularly humorous exclusion clause:

Heh. It happened on a run at the 1/4 mile strip. It felt real slow, it was running so lean. After the run it was knocking like crazy. Still got me home, steam coming out from the valve cover and all. I only realized what had happened after doing an "I'm mad at you car" burnout and noticing the boost going waaay past what I set it at. Pistons ringlands and the skirts of one disintegrated upon dissembly. Have that piston as my phone stand at work.

The 35R is getting a bit on the large side, so pretty peaky. The T04E isn't bad, but the 3076 is the better choice if you're going smaller anyway.

I'm in my late 20s. I have USAA comprehensive for our 2 dailies, then Hagerty for our two "classics" (280Z + Z32TT). We pay ~700 a year for the two classics, agreed value. You'll want to split companies, unless there's some company that offers both agreed value and normal insurance that I don't know about. I think Allstate used to, but it's still not as cheap as a true classic car company, IIRC. All in all I pay about 2,500/year for four cars and two people. And I live in NJ, supposedly the state with the highest insurance premiums. Plus Hagerty offers a pretty cheap, unlimited free towing service so I don't care so much about not being able to have a spare tire all the time, and other problems. Called them up once and it was no problem. Car started working again right after I called though.

Any ballast resistor is just to save wear on the distributor/points/whatever crap. You only need a ignition transistor, which MS usually comes with on the board itself.

Z31 Coil: 2ms MSD Blaster canister: 3ms That's what I've run for a while on each. Z31 coil never seemed to like more than 2ms.

Thanks for the reply considering I was a complete a-hole about it. So, yeah, it's right when I get close to full boost. Setting my controller to 12 psi or lower and the problem doesn't happen. I want to say it gets better with the smaller gap, but it's hard to tell, and I typically let off as soon as I feel it. I don't hear any detonation, but I also never heard detonation when a boost controller broke on my old VG30 years ago and I ran 30psi on stock injectors--cracking a head straight down the middle. I didn't try going lower than 0.030", and I'm going to try that this weekend if I get a chance, leaving #4 a little larger. They are projected. Temperature doesn't seem to affect it. It's been getting colder and colder out with not noticeable difference. IATs are pretty stable regardless. (18-20 degrees C) I will try timing if the smaller gap doesn't help enough. Peak torque on these motors is typically around 4400 RPM. My last VG was at that, this one seems similar since it's requiring more fuel around there. Reason I ask is that I've only experienced and heard about blow out at high RPMs, where I am experiencing this problem at low RPMs. Car runs fine as far as I can tell at high RPM.

Yeah, I currently have it about 0.005" higher than the rest. I didn't go lower than .030", I'll try that and pull some timing as well if that doesn't help.

Rotational speed kills bearings, not power. The force on the bearing at 6000 RPM is exponentially higher than whatever force due to power on it at 3000 RPM. I have about 18 degrees timing at 15psi going to pull it back a bunch and try an even smaller gap. Problem is at low gaps I get misfires at idle on #4.

MacGyver, episode when he's in Brazil or something, and drives the jeep on rail road tracks they lean against an S30 for a few cuts.

How broken? Maybe that's it. I've been beating the crap out of this thing.

Lugging to me is high gear at 1500 RPM on a steep hill and the car is barely accelerating, if at all. This is 4th and 5th gear pulls on flat ground, the same as any dyno tuner will do. Also, oil pressure is already being regulated at around 60psi by 3000 RPMs in the VG30. The shuddering doesn't happen until right at 3000 RPMs. If I get on it at 3k instead of 2.5k, it doesn't happen since full boost happens at or after 3500 RPM. That said, ruining the bearings on this engine wouldn't be the end of the world. It's just a tuning mule for it's replacement.

I'm having trouble at low rpm and high boost. Lots of shuddering. Pretty nasty feeling. Feels like it's misfiring. Double checked and redid my flow calculations and I should not be surging, or even close to surging. Not sure what's going on. Spark blowout? Bedded and tried out the new pads. Seems to bite a lot better. Painted the VG33 block. Need pistons.

Ok, I'm not entirely sure what I'm experiencing. The problem I'm having is that at low RPMs, 2500-3500, and high load (boost), the car violently shudders. Pretty sure it's misfiring, as my datalogs are showing errant RPM readings. This only happens in 4th and especially in 5th gear, at 100% throttle, below 3500 RPM. Full throttle at higher RPMs results in normal ass hauling. I'm seeing 2psi at 2500 RPM, 15psi at 3000, and 18psi at 4000. I think it's spark blowout. I've encountered spark blowout before on VG30s, but only at high RPM and gapping my plugs down to .030" or so fixed it. I've tried as low as .025" in this case, and while it seems to improve the symptoms, it doesn't go away. My next theory was that my worn out, inefficient engine was surging. Mapping out 5th gear pull datalogs over my compressor map, that doesn't seem likely (I'm using VE values from Megasquirt, which might be off, but are eons better than guessing). So what gives?

Sigh, I could have my compound compound compound turbo LS swap done 50 times over for that price.

With open loop you can set your duty cycle to 100% open (in other words, maximum boost) in the areas where full boost is not physically possible, to help spool up. For closed loop, you can increase the proportional gain, but it's less straightforward.

It's loud. I'd say it's as loud as open pipes--just not quite as annoying. At idle it's bearable but anything else and it's loud. Still annoying at WOT. Plus you will have problems of fumes entering the cabin, it's still going to be loud enough to receive a citation, and emissions problems if that applies to you.

Yeah, from my 5.5 cylinder. For real though, +0.3L, 10%. Should mean I get 10% more power.

Columbia River Mandrel Bends offers lots, and can custom make any bend or welded tubing you want.

~21mpg, mostly highway, lots of flooring it. VG30ET tuned pretty lean (15-16:1) in cruise with Megasquirt. Very worn out motor, burns lots of oil. Fouls spark plugs. Not bad.

Reviewed datalogs and smoothed out area at and around 220kPa @ 3000 RPMs (17psi). Turns out in 4th and 5th gear I get full boost (17psi) at 3000 RPMs. Nice. Getting close to the surge limit of the compressor (according to my spread sheet calculations), but some cams and head work should increase the margin a bit. Oh, and switching to the 3.3L will definitely help as well, which I can hopefully have done by next season. Got new Hawk pads on. Will bed them in this weekend and give them a try.

Wow looks great for 30 watts. LEDs are sweet. Interested.

Heh, I was at university and skimped on HW and studying. Now I have a 9-5 (8-6), and don't have a lot of time to work on it on the week either. Although I do usually keep a few tabs of car forums open while at work.