BLOZ UP

Try 10ms control interval with the same DC.

acting up on closed loop? I thought you were trying to get a set duty cycle to work in open loop? Closed loop involves tuning the PID loop, which is harder.

What gear are you trying this in? I recommend 4th or 5th for the most consistency. If your solenoid (and wastegate) can flow enough, you should be able to set the open loop duty cycle to a value that holds a certain boost level. If that's not working, you have a mechanical problem. EDIT: Also try a 15 or 10 ms control interval.

What do you use to do the pie-cuts, and why (other than a tight/custom/changing radius bend) would you do them? Bandsaw? It looks great, but it also looks like a lot of cutting, grinding, and welding.

But I thought turbo cars should not be correcting air density, look at SAE 1349: 5.5.2:

Sounds like the motor that was in my ZZZAP. About 110 on all six. My AFM was also rigged, if it was even the same one.

Yep. I'm thinking I'll squish a braille up under the fender, and have the fusible links right next to it. All in the battery tray area.

Took apart VG33, going to see if I can get it to the machine shop tomorrow to clean it up. Checked main bearing clearances and bores. Looks legit.

New radiator overflow and catch can are going there.

My exhaust manifolds come very close to the current fuses. That's the reason. I've put some heat reflecting tape on the side of it, but it still gets pretty warm. I'm liking seattlejester's idea to mount a small battery in the same location (perpendicular to how it is now), and move the fuses next to it, all fitting within the battery tray.

Small/inefficient charge cooler. Not enough airflow over the charge cooler. Is that a fan way in front of it? Or is that just a toolbox? It needs fans, those blue tornado ones worked pretty well in a pinch (but all I can find is those stupid inlet tornadoes on google). Otherwise, something like http://dynoblower.com/, or bigger. I find it hard to believe no fans were used for your tests. Maybe I'm missing something?

Why don't the admins add .msq, .mlv, and all the other ones to the allowed list. Or really, just restrict only .exe, .msi, .com, and such. Then again, why do we even need file extension filtering in the first place? All the popular OS's have arbitrary file execution prevention--not even counting browsers.

Wow, really? BigPhil had a couple problems but a firmware update took care of most/all of them IIRC. Which one did you get? I've really wanted one--mainly because of the external mic jack that a lot of the others don't seem to have.

Those downshifts sound good. I've discovered that getting a somewhat cheap mic, and putting it inside the car, or on/next to the rear bumper area works 1000% better than using the mic on the camera itself. GoPros have pretty good wind noise filtering, but it still makes it way more betters.

I'm not familiar with them that much, but I believe there's a slanted-rear 77 and a non-slanted one. Mine is slanted. I want to say the front portion, right behind the seats, doesn't come up. But I haven't checked since I put the carpet in... I could be imagining wrong.

My favorite:

Interesting. What's the volume? I might start making something similar in the future. I need it to not go much more than 1/4" higher than a stock maxima manifold though.

Ah, that's a good idea. I'll have to get one of these small dry cells and see what fits.

I have a 77 without storage bins behind the seats.

My VG30ET turbo manifolds come mighty close to the fusible link area. My "fusible links", boost sensor (for a gauge), fan relays, and some other items would be neater and more importantly, away from my turbo headers. I'd show you a picture but the host of all my images went 404 and the computer I have them on is 503 at the moment.

Ah, yes, that's a very important point I completely skipped over. I want to continue in SCCA sanctioned autocrosses. I'll have to look in the rule book. I'm in SSM, so it's just a safety concern. I'd also like to go to the drag strip, which is NHRA sanctioned IIRC. Now, I have my rear bumper still attached. I was just thinking that instead of cutting up the rear body, I could place the battery cut off switch there. I hear that it's required to use the positive cable through the switch? That sounds kind of dumb.

Not really. Maybe diluting and consuming oil faster than normal. I've been running a VG30ET with really low compression for a couple years now. I have to add oil every 500 miles or so, it fouls plugs, it gets about 13 mpg, and I run 20 psi on it at some points. But then again, I don't care about it since it's just the test mule.

I've been eyeing the space I could recapture if I were to move the battery. This would involve getting a dry cell and placing it somewhere. I know it's common to move it to the trunk of the passenger compartment, but I don't like that for a few reasons: Would require heavy-duty mounts to keep it from becoming a deadly projectile Those mounts would require marring up my beautiful trunk area. I don't want to lose space in the trunk area. Looking under the car there's plenty of space for a Braille or similar battery in between the fuel tank and the mustache bar. Both passenger and driver sides have space, but I would probably take advantage of the extra shielding that the passenger side offers, as well as keeping the battery weight on the right side of the vehicle. My goal is first and foremost to free up space in the engine bay so I can move what was formerly the fusible links in that corner. Any weight shifting (positive or negative) would be secondary to that. To eliminate potentially dangerous sparking that would occur when messing with the terminals, I would wire in a cut-off switch in the battery tray area in the engine bay. So, besides the obvious possible sparks when messing with the terminals, what other downsides are there? Road debris? Water? I don't drive in the rain, but it's not something I'd like to have to fear my car going up in flames because of. I don't see that being more than a corrosion problem due to the low voltage though. My idea thus far is to make a steel frame, possibly fully enclosed on the front, to contain the battery. This would be bolted in place. The wires would be routed in the passenger compartment up to the battery tray in the engine bay. One would be connected to a battery cut-off switch. Then to the starter and fusible links as normal. Alternatively, I could make a frame to hold plastic battery boxes, as I see on diesels a lot.

Should be able to run that 350HP, at least, is my guess. Judging from my tuning of VG30Es. It's all in timing as what I've learned. You can have knock from other conditions (too lean) but too aggressive timing is the main thing that will get you and not be so noticeable. That is, it's easy to see if you are running too lean, but timing values are very dependent. Is 20 degrees too much? Depends on RPM, compression, the gas you have, the temperature outside, boost level, etc. So, start rich and conservative on timing and get the fuel table sorted out. Then work on timing (which will cause some changes to AFR, and some fuel table readjustment). For me, having the timing of the stock ECU was awesome, as well as the timing of people who make big power.

18psi on stock cams and heads. Easily over 400 with cams. Although I was injector limited at the time. I expect to make at least 400WHP and hopefully about 450WHP and over 500ft-lbs on my 3.3L build, with cams, at around 20psi on my 50 trim T3/T04. That is, my mods will be: Turbo w/tubular manifolds (not a huge difference over stock, but needed more because of space concerns) charge cooler cams valve grind 750CC injectors That's it. Right now on my worn out VG30ET, I'm making an educated guess of 300WHP right now at 18psi and I have 78% compression. I figure that because I started at 240RWHP on the dyno at 18psi and tuned it from there, and judging from my datalogs I should be well over 300HP but I'll keep it conservative since all I have are my datalogs, time, and a calculator. Multiply that by the percentage of compression I'm missing (1.2727) and I get 380RWHP, which sounds about right. Very similar to my last setup. Ok, so all those numbers are out of my rear, but the point is that 400, 450, even 500 HP isn't that far off. Really, keep it under 25psi and use 91 octane and they stay pretty reliable. It's the people that try to run passed 6500RPM that have problems, not necessarily the ones who go after too much power. The forces due to RPM put an insane amount of stress on these engines, not power.