BLOZ UP

Too not-black for my car.

You can't really trust horsepower numbers even from the same machine unless it's on the same day. It's a tool for tuning, not winning a bench race. However, what was wrong with the examples of 30ETs making 400, 450 peak HP? Even allowing for variances in dynos it's not a stretch to put any of those passed 400 WHP on any dyno. Or are we still limiting to an arbitrary 15psi? Because 15psi on one turbo is not the same 15psi on another, and the flow through the heads can be entirely different.

Tired of being thrown around on autocrosses is more like it. Also, barely fit with my helmet on in the stock seats. I'm hoping I can get whatever seat I get lower than it is right now.

I'm looking at adjustable Corbeau A4s.

Been looking on craigslist for seats, but in the mean time I ordered some polyurethane bushings.

Leakdown and compression tests use different tools. The compression tester will show you the maximum pressure a cylinder makes, not any leak amount.

Until your water pump leaks onto your distributor. ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh (cries in corner).

Cute.

Well, I didn't take so well to this event's course layout. I noticed that I can't give 100% throttle, even low boost (8psi) without having oversteer problems. First run: Worst run: Best run: So, things to improve: Seat + harness. I'm sliding around like a maniac, and have to use my clutch foot to press my body into the seat Shifter + shift knob. Tired of the lengthy throw and the dumb knob coming off in my hand. Sway bars Suspension bushings LSD Coilovers The seat is going to have to wait, but the shifter and bushings I might tackle soon. I even have a CLSD sitting in my garage (actually from the parts car whose engine ended up in my 280Z), and 2 or 3 extra Z31 turbo half shafts.

Tuned a little. Changed spark plugs, using a smaller gap. I'm having lots of misfires at 0-10% throttle, that go away when you floor it. It happened before but appears to be more pronounced now with the smaller gap, and with a cold engine. Also noticed it was low on oil, looks like a quart or so every 500 miles is burning. I've topped it off for an autocross tomorrow.

I have a Diversion 165 TIG. There are some TIGs by "Everlast" on eBay that people swear by. Haven't heard anything bad about them (yet). Or, you can get a Hobart, since they're a bit cheaper than the Miller and are pretty much the same thing. Don't know much about MIG, other than I suck at it.

Cute bottle.

Denatured Alchohol worked wonders for me, with 70% compression average on the cylinders and a cheap cat.

I'll race you. eRace you.

I think keeping at or under ~20psi has been shown pretty reliable on the VG30E.

Yeah, it was hard to find a legit website that didn't seem like a xerox copy of every other shipping company's website. There are lots of duplicate companies that are all owned by the same parent company. And all of them just contract it out (save for Horseless Carriage, and all the other fancy ones). They give you a price that's 200-400 dollars more expensive than calling up the actual hauling truck/company yourself. Then again, they also deal with all the hassles. Sort of. I shipped my 280Z from TX to NJ, for just under $1100. The company was nice and helpful, but in the end they and I had to deal with the trucker that they picked, who was a little hard to understand and late picking up and delivering. I have no problem forgiving the language barrier, but the biggest problem was he parked my car on the bottom under some POS Camaro that was leaking like a sieve. But he failed to protect my car. Instead of telling me he just wiped off my roof and handed me the car. I later found out when I opened the hatch and saw some nasty oil pooled up above the tail lights. I also took an entire day off work just to have him show up at 9pm anyway, but that's to be expected. But, it got here and was otherwise undamaged. The company also said they would give away a free transport once a month if you posted a positive review on "transportreviews.com" or whatever that site was. Total scam, twice over, I can't trust anything on that review site now, and I've never heard of anyone actually cashing in on this "giveaway". Won't deal with them again.

With my lack of impulse control I went through 2 240Zs with serious rust problems. I tore both of them down, realized how bad it was, got disheartened, and sold them. Luckily I made my money back on them plus a little extra for the 240Z bumpers. So a couple years later I happened upon a 77 ZZZAP with no real rust on it, I was giddy after taking a peek at the frame rails and noticing not only a lack of rust, but they weren't crushed to hell either. In the meantime I bought a $500 88 300ZX Turbo though and drove it 2 hours home, that was scary. Totally worth it for the CLSD though. Then I got the genius idea to put that worn out VG30ET in my 280Z. But that was TX so my odds were better there.

I had Adam at Columbia River Mandrel Bends make me a 3-1. I tried and made one for one side of my turbo manifolds--never again. Way too much trouble with the tools I have. It turned out great, and was $120: It's 1-1/4" SCH 10 pipe, with a 60mm ID outlet. 14 degree merge angle. Whenever, if ever, I get around to redoing the side I made the merge on, I'll have him build me another.

How's your alternator? Where do you get the power to MS from? Where are the grounds? Where's your oxygen sensor located, and when did you last calibrate it? Do you have another sensor you can try? Any misfires will render the oxygen sensor's reading useless to you, but you didn't say if it misses when idling. Does it?

Ha, Lethal Performance. I used to work there. They should know better than to print out a graph with unaligned axis. The point of this thread, I think, isn't weather you can break 300 or 400hp, it's whether you can get a nice, non-peaky, torque curve that spans 3000 RPM. If you convert your MPH to RPM, does you graph show that?

Any straight through muffler is going to be loud, no matter what the brand. Super-trapp's are a sort of exception. If you want quite, you'll need a chambered muffler, or two or three. I have 36" of Vibrant mesh packs, and a 12" dynomax glasspack. And a turbo. And it's still loud, but manageable.

I, for one, welcome our autonomous driving overlords. Nissan says it wants to produce an autonomous car by 2020. Sign me up. I'm paranoid when I drive my Z, but I admit with my new Focus I am much more lax on my daily commute. So are thousands of other people, a lot of which have their cheap iPhone headphones in their ear... What they need, and I need are cars that drive themselves. More room for my Z that way.

So this just solidifies my decision to go with bolt-in plates.

Mmmm that depends on your definition of "do better". I'm willing to bet the GTR and Porsche have a lot more area under the curve. See random pic from web:

Sweet. You, uh, up for modeling some turbo manifolds in SolidWorks?