BLOZ UP

Since last time, I've done a few things: Redid middle part of exhaust, added more hangars; it's a lot better. Fuel pump overheated/was clogged/something and the car died from lack of fuel pressure Fixed my fuel sending unit Fuel pump has fixed itself (or eaten whatever clogged it), and doesn't whine abnormally any more (!?) Put in and finished nearly all the carpet Started rebuilding a VG33 from a Frontier The exhaust was hanging too low, so I remade part of the downpipe and middle section, as well as part of the rear. It hugs the car now and never* dips lower than the frame rails. (*Ok, one of the hangar clamps is lower, but that is an easy fix.) Not sure what happened but my fuel pressure dropped and the car died whilst driving. Very annoying. Almost got to take advantage of my free towing, but then car magically started working again. Made it home, opened up the inspection lid and noticed it was half full. Also noticed that sending unit wire was cut for some reason. Fixed the sending unit, got gas, and it's been working ever since. Working better, since now it doesn't whine incessantly anymore. I mean, it's still loud, but it doesn't modulate and sound like a dying sheep. I also started on the carpet, which has been pretty involved. Just need to trim and tuck it up near the firewall and it's done. Pulled apart a Frontier engine I've had for a little while. I thought it was going to be somewhat wasted but other than a bit of oil coking, the bearings are all clean. I'm going to drop it off at a machine shop to clean it all, possibly polish the bearing surfaces if needed, and check the rods and pistons and put in some ARP rod bolts. Just a stock build should be fine for a while.

I'll help. And by help, I mean shout encouraging things while drinking in my lawn chair. When my VG33 blows up I know where to go.

Sure was. I'm in Somerset now. Rains a lot here.

I've got a VG33 I need checked out and some work done on, anyone know of any place that knows Nissans/Zs?

What's at the front, up near the downpipe area? Is that just a collector or some type of resonator?

The numbers are kind of the point, no? While comparing numbers from different dynos can be somewhat pointless (or even ones from the same dyno at different times of year), using one dyno consistently to tune the numbers up is the whole point. So, while you may focus on the A/F and knock/timing, the numbers respond directly. But yeah, without an A/F readout you're just guessing.

Is it still externally regulated?

It doesn't take much to damage your hearing, and it doesn't come back... Power does seem a bit low, hopefully there's an A/F ratio on the graph, that'll splain a lot I'm betting.

+1 for Chester's.

Ooh which ones?

Hrm, looks pretty good. If I can get some cheap I might do the same, since my seats are pretty beat up.

Damn... I just threw away one of those because it was all cracked. Doh. Maybe I threw it in my parts bin....

Mine works fine? I had a friend who got an early LC-1 have his crap out, but Innovate replaced it all super-easy and quick. Wouldn't say they are junk.

So, let's say my engine has good compression on 5 cylinders, but the 6th is pretty low, like 90 psi. Low enough to where it will foul spark plugs due to misfires. Now let's say that while I wait for an engine rebuild on a spare engine, I like to drive around. So, how do I improve ignition on this single cylinder? I tried increasing my spark gap from the stock .045" to 0.060", with what I think is great results. As in, my fuel table which has been more or less way out of whack due to the misfires, starts to make sense. I had to lean everything waaaay out to get it to idle, and run correctly. Is this just a coincidence, or did I stumble on to something? What else can I do? Run a hotter plug? I'm not planning on running any endurance series on this motor, I just like to go to club events and stuff nearby.

Did you bench bleed the master?

I have the 280Z master going to a 280ZX front brake hose (IIRC) to the Z31 slave. I haven't had any travel issues, as far as I know.

I used the 280Z 4 speed driveshaft with the VG's Nissan 71C transmission. I also used the 280Z transmission crossmember (although I had to swap the isolator or something, can't remember, but it was bolt on).

Makes as much power as my VG30 does. At 18psi. With 550cc's maxed out.

Congrats. That rough running is from being too rich from the vacuum leaks and un-tuned state, as well as the FPR, like you said. Runs way better than my broke, low-compression VG. Looks like your engine is the same position as mine. What kind of mounts do you have?

After switching to Revolution gauges, I wired in the brake warning light to the "Floor Temp." light that was made unused after the switch to Megasquirt. This is only on California models apparently. Not sure what's there otherwise.

I've had success on the VG30 with the Nissan ones, at 24psi it didn't leak. The head did when it split in half.

Ha! No, I'm just saying that if the software already paints the area under the curve, perhaps they've thought of and have an option to output total power per rpm.

Interesting dyno software they have. It renders a gradient under the curve... it wouldn't be much more work to get the integral of your power/torque curve. I wonder if it has an option for that....

You win 1000 internets!

That display is pretty cool. Looks like it's customizable as to what you want on it?