Twoeightnine

What ever you do....under no circumstance ....... ever ........ ever ........ touch the RED button!

Rube Goldberg perhaphs?

"May check it out?" Some one needs to check it out! MSA parts alone would be worth the trip yes?

One piece HybridZ. Make the Z in the original font and bigger.

Wow thats tight! Looks great!! Maybe I can worm out of the custom order. They have not fabbed it yet, just designed it. I'll do some cost analysis. Thanks for the Pic!

More pics! Summit? Did it clear your steering shaft? I will be sad if it did. I went with a custom pair. More pics please. (Edit) Well I saw in your other post that you did indeed say that it cleared the shaft. My bad. Blowing a 30 amp fuse!!?? Thats not good. Should not have that kind of a load at all. Keep us posted!! Looks good mister!

They are a big company, one will have there days, but paint is what they do. They also have the resourses to make shure its right. They are a budget painter so.....flip the coin!

The casting number is on the block above the starter. you cant see it from above. If you reach under the ledge just above the starter you can get a "rub" using a paper. If the engine is out, just take a look. Once you have the number, you can look up its history. http://www.fordclassics.com/enginespecs.html http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/289-hi-po-guide-vt936.html http://www.classicmustang.com/casting_numbers.htm

As strange as it may seem to say this....better get MaCo! Hang on, hang on. Heres the deal. I used them once and they are willing to work with you. The reason that there is a stigma attached to MaCo is that they advertise a cheap paint job to pull customers in. What they really want to do is sell you a better paint job. Most folks are dead set on the $299. job so thats a large portion of what wanders the street. The $299. is a scuff it and spray it deal. No clear coat, no prep, no prime and they "tape" it. You tell them what you want and they will do it. An example: In fort Worth Texas I bought a slightly hail damaged Baja Bug (VW). I told them I was going to prep and prime it. I asked if I could get two coats and trailer it home, color sand, bring it back for a coat of clear and oh by the way.....I want to do the tape. They said...OK your the boss. It really didn't look that strange to see me in the parking lot a few days later laying tape in the hot Texas sun! If you said that you wanted 3 coats wet sand with two coats of clear they will say OK. Ask them for a show quality paint finish with zero blemishes, they will say OK. They paint cars and dont really care if you want to spend 300 or 7000. As long as you spend. They also use bake ovens that can do alot for a tight smooth finish. Thats my experience with em. The Bug...looked pretty damn good. That was ten years ago when they had the 199 paint special but, I spent around 700.00. The same paint job today would be around 1700 to 2000. Yep, I checked. Custom painters can be difficult to deal with sometimes! Gotta have an ace in the hole!!! PS They will even paint a dissasembled car. For a fee of course.

Black Dragon has most of what you are looking for. As far as the little flap seal on the front of the door...still havent found that one. Any one? http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/t10.html

Thats a good price boys!

After market, and OEM. 2753 2.8 6 81-83 PF .8260 5.139 Engine model L28E, L28ET 280ZX, 280ZX turbo A87 R83170 R83170

Two cents. I have some experience with shot peening for what its worth. When I have had to have a fabricated part shot peened or a structural repair area shot peened, the process is fairly straight forward but very specific. In short the shot peen process useing flap strap or free ball is a carefully calculated process with respect to duration. And that duration is extensive. The part is whapped for so long that it is difficult to tell the difference. You dont see any "dents". Its very smooth. And yes polish is usually part of the process. Age the part and it is impossible to tell the difference. A surface hardness test will show the diff but, in the case of a rod, the hardness tester will defeat the benefits that shot peening provides...stress free surface....by creating a diviot in the part. Going to need more factory data on this one. It's gotta be there somewhere!

Hey. first I dont know dickey about the door poppers but earlier today when snagging a seat belt replacement for my Bug, I ran into a link for door poppers. I eyeballed it a bit and it may apply for you as well. In basic, the kits are pretty universal and I did notice one thing. There is not a lot of options for mount posistion on alot of cars. The common spot, to avoid the window and it's mechanizm, is the door "toe" or jam area under the latch mech. A cable is lashed from there up to the lever that would have had the handle attached to it. Maybe that will get you running. Post what you find out. I know there may be some folks that are interested in the "shaved" variety! http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=51

No such thing as a shameless plug. Ant pics of the difference between eruro and 240 with out the bumper pad holes. Im searching but no luck.

Now thats funny!!!

Okey dokey. I'll whip it up this weekend then! Thanks for putting up with me.

What I ment with respect to springs was, I have 225F/250R springs so the average suspension travel is greatly reduced. Also lowered 3/4 of an inch from stock. Wth that in mind, when adjusting for the prefered Zero Bump steer, should we consider a center datum as the static ride height plus or minus an inch and a half or just go for a full travel adjustment. This is considering that we will not have a perfect zero through out the full travel so would not we want to consider where the car starts from when sprung and resting.

I can understand Jons method as one can do both wheels at the same time and we would see full travel. One question. Do we need to check full travel while (with more than 100% increase in spring rate) the usefull suspension travel is at ride height to an inch and a half above and below? Unless, of course the Dukes of Hazard borrow the car!

Very interesting. I read the entire FAQ for bump steer. Nice read. I find your slot teqnique very appealing. Your thoughts on a slotted mod, approximately one inch center to center, oval doubler inside factory thicknes, factory pivot. Adjust to zero, bolt it up?

Got ya. At least with the slot one can get bumpsteer to zero. That was the basis of my concern was getting it right the first time. But I see that getting it there "brings" an improvement regardless if it is dead nut perfect. The JTR book kinda wanders around the exact measurement if I remember right. They even mention to bring the hole center out a bit to gain built in camber if one wished. Dont have it in front of me at the moment. Care to quote the exact point at which we could expect zero bumpsteer. I have seen 3/4, 7/8, 1, and your original 7/16 inches used. Or is there even a real zero bumpsteer? Or better yet, I'll read the FAQs! Hadn't thought of that! Be kind...remember I was originally trying to get a Pro to do it! Many thanks,

Thats a mean slot. Surely you dont have the LCA all the way up there? Just asking cause I have the JTR and supposedly it's what...7/8"? Looks good however. Well if I dont have a bite tomorow, I'll do it myself. Many thanks,

Are you talking about Donkey Punch Ricer one?

Yeh, I keep forgetting about mans favorite removal method.....force. Or better yet....the hammer. I used a large drill bit making shallow passes at the tack weld locations to remove all of the useless bracketry in the engine bay. One of the brackets I simply could not find the tack weld spots so I grabed the trusty vise grips and proceeded to wrestle the bastage off. When it popped off, it had pulled the welds through the firewall leaving really nice jagged holes. But I realize that the cross member is much thicker. So far I see there are no takers for the job. Im under the impression its not a big deal? Maybe Im making too much of it? When I was younger I worked for a time as a precision Machinist and have since then been engineering precision aircraft systems. Perhaps I should knock back the presision side of me. Is that it? Im not really too easy to frighten, I just want them right. J...what type of doubler did you use on your slotted system? Thanks guys for the imput,