Twoeightnine

Sorry...couldn't resist! The quadrapuke 780? I had one on a 396 Impala. Would suck birds out of the sky when the massive secondaries flopped open! But bought a Z28 with an LT1 350 that sported a 650 CFM. 66 Galaxie with a....thats right.....a 289 HiPo strapping a 480 CFM. 1970 327 Nova sucking through a 600 CFM. But one of the worst cars I ever shouldn't have owned...74 guttlas Cutlass. 350 GM with a 780 Quadradump. Flow is the deal, do you still have iron exhaust? Maybe you can talk your friend out of the 600. What brand? Enjoy the ponies regardless!! Thanks for putting up with me!

I must concur. We have a winner! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113896

Was just about to ask about your new avitar! Must say...very fitting! It's a keeper!

May I say............told ya. I remember that you said that you didn't want to buy another one to drop your CFM. Well just keep the 600 and duck your friend! Just kidding. Yep, the small block is often overcarbed. 600 CFM MAX! Stock small blocks can even be happy with as little as 435. But like Dr Hunt says...some day you will have some big displacement and carbs dont seem to be getting any cheaper!! Congrats!!

Well at least you will only be passing through Amarillo!

"She" sounds a little wacky! What if the"old man" gets back and puts the kybash on the sale? Poundz9oh9...a check out might be in order. if it's a real deal, I can see why folks want to end the auction early. Im going to go home now and check my spare part inventory!

Larry must be close enough to cover Amarillo! Past two days we have been pounded by rain! More to come! From famine to feast! The place greens up quick with a little rain. Havent seen any old folks floating down the road yet however. Keep up the good work Larry!

God bless Bondo.

How about these Terry? Want these very much!

Yep. Cut a donor section. Match it to your rig. Weld it. Putty and paint. Hell paint the whole car!

SBF = Small Block Ford.

Nice work. I agree with veritech-z. Not the classic from the front but, from underneath and the wells. Would look trick.

Yes. Japan does have some cool toys. I was born in Japan. left when I was four but I still remember the toys. Still have a few. Thanks for the offer Terry!

Not a sorority chick, but a damn good fishing partner!!

Were there any takers? More pics!

I'll be back. Have relatives and property in Polson. they will be here in Texas for X-Mas, I will be in Mt. in the spring. Dont think I can leave the Z home this time. What was your call on the cooling situation? Let er ride? Wont need it in the Montanna winter but.....

See told you. I had followed a thread last year were a couple of members had mentioned the fender bridge seals. Never had a resolution if I remember. Did every one reassemble their fenders without the seals? Does it matter? No one sits on their fender anyhow yes?

Looks like an Ingersoll Rand? Or possibly a Campbell Hausfeld? The pro 4000 was manufactured by both. Not sure about the 60 gal unit but, the 80 gal unit, new, runs in the upper 700.00 range retail. These compressors, regardless of tank size, have been popular for years and parts are plentiful. A bad head gasket will cause the unit to "loose" air while it is in operation due to gasket blow by. Basicly making it inefficient. Once the tank is compressed, the gasket should have nothing to do with it. By the way, the 5HP rating means nothing here. Both Ingersoll Rand, Campbell and others including craftman were successfully sued over this electric motors power rating. They wound up being measurably less than 5HP. You will still need at least a 30 amp breaker as well. But if you have priced similar units at 80 gal, the price is right on this one. Look it over!

Being that you will be in Missoula, you might be alright. No brainer that it was designed to have one, and should have one. If you are like me you will forget and one day it'l get ya. You could probably get it wired just as fast as hunting down the shroud. Got six days! Say howdy to M town and dont drink too much Moose Drool !!

What a Bee Eye Tee See Ache. She wont last long, just enjoy your cup cake. When your eating one....pretend it's her!

Lets not forget that "Bondo" is a brand name for a filler that yes, was popular decades ago. The modern fillers are a whole different animal. Companies like 3M refined fillers (aerodynamic smoothers) decades ago, for the aerospace industry. That when applied on properly preped surface (rough and clean) would fill a dent 1/4 inch deep by 2 inches wide. And when bent at the repair area, in excess of 90 degrees, would not pop off or even crack! These types of fillers are on the shelf today. The real "old school" Bondo can't hold up to that kind of aplication for one thing. And secondly, Bondo's reputation was also slughtered by it's missuse. The unknowing, or the lazy, would slap it on thick and even use it to cover large holes! Chicken wire, screws, and a gallon of Bondo.....hole be gone!!

Very cool J! I bagged and taged every thing. Was calling around about fastener options. Here in the dust bowl the fastener selection has been hit and miss. The kits are priceless considering the cost of the back and forth/miss match situation that I am facing. I was dreading reworking the original fasteners. Thanks! Along these lines I have been wearing out the search button looking for what folks in the past have used to replace the fender "bridge" seals. The metal bridges that support an installed fender. What was the "goo" that was used. It needs to be plyable to allow for adjusting the door/fender/bonnet but, then needs to harden and actually support. Or do we even worry about this? Many thanks!

Yep. If your car does the ass slide with no front bite. And does not walk off to the side violently. Your problem rest within the master cly. If you are willing to rebuild it, you can get away with a hone and O-ring deal. Brakes are important, new is good.

Food for thought.... A proportioning valve that splits the pressure ratio between the front and rear will most likely "mask" the root cause. If it is stock as you say then something is dead wrong. If you have replaced the front pads check them. If not replace them. If you feel confident that it's not the pads, and both sides of the front are weak, you have no choice but to suspect the master cyl. Its the only place that a stock sys splits front/rear duty. Think about it, both front calipers equally malfuctioning? Prob not. The cyl that operates both front calipers being bad, yep.