240zwannabe

can anybody give me a round-about level as to what the max rated power for a hx40 would be on a gas motor? also, does anybody know for sure if it's a t3 or t4? i plan on using it on a 2jz for spool couldn't be bad. thanks

hey, sorry man i havent been on here much lately i just started back at school and everythings crazy. i can probably get the measurements this weekend if you'd like it's down at my dads office about 30 minutes away. if you pm me i'm more likely to see your requests

no, this master cylinder was already in the car, i'll try that

45 degree flare is for AN fittings used in aircraft. 37 degree flares are used for fittings in cars...i am sure of this

sorry, i'm pretty good at being vague about things. lets try this again, first i use the mitty vac hand pump to get the air out. then i have another person pump the clutch 5-10 times and stomp on it as i open up the bleed valve to be sure the mitty vac hasn't failed me.

alright, i'm no hydraulic guru so somebody please help. through a search i also came up with so similar symptoms. alright so my m/c, slave cylinder, stainless steel clutch line, clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing are all new, the only original part in the clutch system in the hard line. now, i have the clutch bled all the way out, i have pedal pressure but not until almost all the way to the floor. if i put the car in gear and try to start it the car move forward, so it's obvious it's not disengaging all the way. what could be the cause of this?

first, i want to say i did search but couldn't find any threads with similar symptoms. alright, heres the deal, calipers, drums, stainless steel brake lines are all new. i've bled the brakes so that absolutely no air is in the lines, the pedal has pressure but it doesn't come to a stopping point when max pressure is acheived, it just goes to the floor. all threads look to be just fine and all flares are at the SAE standard of 37 degrees. can somebody please help me? ps: i'm also having a similar problem with the clutch but i'll post that in the drivetrain thread, so if any of you hydraulic gurus could also please check that out for me also please it would be much appreciated.

nice find man

ah, yes that may be true. i don't know how many websites i've been to where there has been both gte and gtte

there is a gte and a gtte...the gtte is the twin turbo not gte, hence the number of "T's". sorry i havent been able to check the forums, the tranny is a 30-40LE made by Aisin

that car itself can stay in australia...but the thought of a $7500 skyline, that can come to the US anytime!

vvt-i doesnt tell you if it's turbo or not. what tells you that its not turbo is the "T" that would be in the engine code if it were turbo. if it were turbo it would be 2jz-gte or gtte, this motor is a 2jz-ge

sorry, no pics

oops sorry! 2jz-ge non vvt-i out of a sc300

bought my 2jz yesterday and in the purchase i also recieved an extra 2jz complete block and head. if anybodys interested i'll sell it $200. i know this isn't the for sale thread but i thought it'd catch more interest here edit: i also recieved an auto tranny i'll sell it for $100

i wet sand and buff for a living...yes i know it sucks. but, at 18 years old i can't complain. we use all 3m products and as stated before area awesome. use 2000 grit with a block that has a hard side and a soft side, sand in every direction possible. use the 3m purple extra cut compound to get out scratches with the quickness, then go over that with the their regular compound to eliminate any swirls you won't be able to get out when you use they're swirl remover. and, depending on the color you might want to pick up a bottle of they're light blue glaze/ swirl remover with they're light blue pad. just my .02....

a good painter should be able to recreate the color by looking at the picture. of course, you should ask to see the color before he sprays the entire car, but i'm sure they'll work with you

i hear ya man, i had quotes done at a local machine shop and just the machine work alone was $2,500 for a stroker motor...that was before parts and what not

whatever kind of paint it is black is always the lightest when it comes to weight...

i cant find the exact location of it but i'm pretty sure you stated it to be either 52/48 or 53/47, either way is alright with me, i'd rather have it the other way around but what can you do?

same deal with me, its a non vvt-i GE for $600...as long as those internals with hold like they have been stated to hold 700+hp, this swap is a definate

anybody?

does anybody have somewhat close to definate numbers as to when the rods and pistons fail? i dont trust another other type of injection other than fuel. i would like to be making this 600whp on 93 pump gas and a nice safe original motor build. but, if you guys say these motors take power adders that well and reliably i'll trust you and stay away from the built internals. so, can anybody tell me what the consensus is on the GTE vs GE head is?

i just found this thread through a search and thought i bring it up from the graveyard as the people in this thread seem extremely knowledgeable. i currently just stumbled across a GE motor, tranny, harness, and all sensors for $600. the motor has 65000 miles on it and is said to be in running condition. now, my question is: should i scrap the GE head and go with a GTE head or keep the GE head, do a stage 1 port job with a 274 cam? i read earlier that the GE head does in fact flow better, but i would rather spend the extra money and over build a motor than under build it and break something. my power goal is 600whp on pump gas. at 18 years old i can't afford to break 2jz parts...they're expensive!!! thanks guys

sorry, maybe i shouldnt have been way more specific. i asked this because cutting and welding the crossmember and using the z steering assembly could be an option if a way to change the location of the engine mounts was possible. thus strength would be in question.