240zwannabe

ok, well, with this being said how much if any would a welded crossmember weaken its strength?

holy jesus! that would make a jz swap all to ridiculously easy...it would seem

highly doubt it, i have +35mm offest with the modern motorsport spacers and my 17*8 barely clear in the front

i'm sorry i dont remember me saying i had it in a Z. it's more a sarcastic statement than anything. my philosophy was always go big or go home.

that is a very broad question. as far as windows being removed for paint, this is not completely necessary, they make a blue tape (i guess you could call it) with a hard side that you slide under the rubber gasket and fold over which allows you a perfect line so you don't paint the gasket or not paint the car due to a tape line. but, if you want it done right removing all glass is the way to go! rust repair/welding and windows don't go good together, the slag from welding puts small chips in glass...no bueno. also, if your welding on the roof and you want your headliner it is a good idea to take it out.

get 1 15, 2 amps, and a cap...call it a day. i had a 2800 watt 15, two 1600 watt amps, and a 5 farad cap in an accord, that was plenty of bass trust me

z-tard, can we get a shot from the rear? i bet that thing looks mean as hell from behind

hell yeah man i rep the mohawk too...good to see there is another z owner out there somewhere some what like me i was tired of seeing the older guys in the local club look at me like i was crazy everytime i came around...btw nice car

hah i'll vouch for this guy...i had the same problem and used the same solution...except my car will start, it just wont stay started...yes i know it sucks

you want to tighten the actual nut just so that it just hit the sleeve then turn it back 1/6 turn...i dont know why thats just what i was taught at A&P school

do you have a stock fuel rail or aftermarket?

haha yeah i was talking to you. this forum is a whole lot better and a very small majority of the people here are only here to flame, everybody else is here to help.

do you know the magical number at which these ringlands $hit out?

update: put a new fuel pump in my car and it will start but it will still rev to 1500 rpm and shut off...somebody please help me

thats what were trying to figure out, but i can't find anywhere to get a solid answer

yeah im 240nerd over on that forum and rarely get on there, really only when i'm trying to get rid of the tons of datsun parts i got. it's ridiculously immature, everybody on that forum thinks they have the fastest or the baddest looking car in the world, which isn't bad but their attitudes outweigh the satisfaction of even being a member

agreed, i just hate to be that guy. as far as i've read crank and mains are good for a ridiculous amount of power. rods are my main concern, if i don't get em stock rods would be shot peened and it would save me about $1K.

i'm using a complete, i mean complete 73 suspension under my 77...as far as i know they were the same but somebody please correct me if i'm wrong

not trying to jack your thread, but, does anybody know how much power the stock rods can hold? i've searched every forum i am apart of and haven't found a solid answer

glad to see you join us over here at hybridz, 502 street scene is probably the stupidest forum out there...

anybody?

i'm very familiar with the holset h series. i was just wondering how the hx performed on the rb, as the hx is looked down upon in the L28 world for its 3cm larger compressor. i was planning a l31 stroker turbo using a hy35 but $10K for 500hp = weak $hit, at 18 years old if i'm going to spend that kind of money on my motor i want something more like 600hp...with that being said i'd rather use a holset whereas it is much more efficient than the regular "gas powered turbos," not to mention if i used one of these "gas powered turbos" i would be paying $1K+ for the gt37

ok heres the deal, i had a nasty stuttering problem when revving, i fixed that, it turned out to be a silly vacuum leak. well, this current problem began with the coolant not flowing, i had blown out all the coolant passageways and all, i came down to the conclusion that it had to have been the radiator being that it is 30 years old(77 280z). so, i opted for the AZC performance radiator as i was going to be using it at a later time anyway. well, in order to install this radiator a major alteration of the intake piping is a must. so, i cut the air regulator line and put a filter on it, next i rigged up a new intake piping system with the AFM pointing out the hole where most turbo guys run their intercooler piping. got everything back together, went to fire it up and it would rev to 1500 rpm and shut off, unless i gave it gas but if i let off it would then shut off. so the next weekend i redid the intake piping thinking it had to have been a problem with airflow to the airflow regulator, got everything back together as close to stock as possibly. start it up, same problem. got to messing with it some more thinking maybe something loose or what not, no. now the car won't start at all. i took it to the only local import shop that'll work on it and after a week of looking it over, they can't figure it out for themselves...anybody got any ideas? thanks

does he have any idea as to what kind of power these things are capable of? i've never seen a dyno sheet or anything as far as power outputs from an hx35...plus i don't know how to reaad compressor maps so i'm kind of fresh out as far as that goes.

so what was the consensus on the hx35? with the better head design of the rb over the L how close does anyone think it will perform compared to the hy35 on an L28