240zwannabe

not necessarily, the way the airdam sits back behind the headlights kind of dissipates any high pressures that would've built up, the only lift it would reduce would be the extremely tiny amount of high to low pressure change as the air travels through the brake ducts...if your airdam has them.

the first thing i thought about was welding a piece of scrap metal around the outside of the vent and stamp welding it to the bottom of your hood...i know you said no welding but that would be the cleanest way to do it if you have to weld

i couldn't tell you what company makes it but it's a chemical used to get off overspray called dorado, it works pretty well. but, if you say it was dry when it settled you might want to try using a pressure washer first.

man, i couldn't even tell you anybody who's running these pistons...

do you have proof that the n42 has more wall thickness?

i second that

no, simply get on a skyline forum and ask somebody to get their paint code for you. it doesn't take much for a painter to get on his paint companies website and get the mixing ratios once he has the code. atleast thats the way it works at my shop.

how much money do you got in paint/bodywork? if you don't mind me asking...

yes you do need to use 89mm pistons. as for the rods http://www.datsunspirit.com sells a set of wako rods for a whopping $1250. you'll probably have to have some custom pistons made due to the fact that the wako rods are 7.2 mm longer than the stock l28 rods and 4.5mm longer than the l24 rods

from personal experience you might want to check the efi relay under the dash on the drivers side right next to the hood popper

alright i finally got time to pull my plugs today...just black. pretty normal looking to me...

i was wondering why mine didn't fit properly. i thought i was just an idiot and didn't put the piping together exactly right

see, the problem with that is it's not exactly street legal. plus, it needs more work that just this problem. the hydraulic fluids for some reason wont pump through the slave cylinder, the brakes havent been bled, suspension isnt completely finished, oh dont forget my coolant problem...it wont flow for some reason. ive got an arizona z car radiator on order and should be here within the week.

ugh how the hell do you get 1 free 280z with a 5 speed and i buy 2 for $600 and get screwed with them both being 4 speeds?!!!...oh well, the 3.36 R200 will make up for gas mileage!

nice R1 man! i'm buying a gsx-r the day after i finally get my car stroked and turboed. anyway, your project is the equivalent in size to mine. it's a lot of fun and even more stress at the sametime. goodluck and i look forward to seeing your finished product.

in my opinion the 2.5 inch exhaust system for the l28 sounds pretty good, not ricey sounding, i'd say closer to v8 while idling i've never heard it rev from the back so i couldn't tell you what it sounds like in the upper rpms

the only time i have to do any work on my car is on weekends, work and school are my life...sucks! i've only revved it to about 5500 rpm but it had no problems getting there after it cleared about 1775 rpm where the stuttering ends, and let me tell you open header l28 is retarded loud! i'll get those plugs out saturday and let you guys know. although tonight i did get home about 10 minutes earlier than usual so i swung by the local walmart and picked up some injector cleaner just to be absolutely sure that wasn't the problem. well, i also plugged the vacuum farthest back closest to the right side of the engine bay. whichever one it was it helped quite a bit although it seems like it's still having a bit of trouble between 1K and 2K rpm, or could this just be the injector cleaner making it run a little awkward? i've never dealt with injector cleaner before this is my first near complete project car (went through 3 different z chassis and 2 engines before coming to a definite choice of the temporary motor while the 3.1 stroker turbo is built). if there is anymore advice without knowing what the plugs look like please keep it coming i appreciate all help.

i stated it not to be another "not another not enough fuel" issue due to it stuttering and sputtering at higher rpm's while i had in running in it's original chassis, sorry i should've clarified that. in the previous chassis i did not have this problem, so i think we can do away with that possibly being the problem. injectors are new. although, i do question the relay, it is still the original relay. i did buy another as my fuel pump will not get power from ignition, so i have it wired through a switch, this also helps with theft protection (i go to school in the "hood"). i am using the entire 77 harness with the exception of the fuel pump wiring and the oil pressure sensor, the 77 and 78 l28's used a different style sensor. MPG is an unknown, i do not have this car completely streetable again, i still have other small things to finish up. i haven't checked fuel pressure anywhere in the lines, i do not have a gauge. i would hope/assume my fuel pressure is just fine everywhere until the FPR, it is also original. i bought a new dizzy rotor and cap today and installed them tonight but it's late and i have work at 8 am and dont get out of school until 10 every night. all grounds seemed to be good when i did the swap. thanks again but please keep the suggestions coming. ps: if the description of my problem isn't clear please ask questions and i will do my best to put them in words

ok i did some searching and the closest thing i could find to my problem is this thread here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=86771&highlight=stutter although, mine is a little different. cold or warm from a start my motor will stutter until about 1775 rpm, it can't be a "not enough fuel issue" because it has just under half a tank in it. sometimes when i start it it will idle at about 1500 and drop to right above 500 rpm, stay there for a while and briefly rev to 1500 again, then drop back to 500. i read in the haynes manual that the lowest recommended idle for a l28 is 800 rpm, is this true? the manual isn't very descriptive when it comes to l28's. it is a 78 l28 with 77 wire harness and a 78 ecu, if thats important... i had this motor running just fine in the original chassis before doing the swap due to a better body. the motor has new injectors, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, 52K miles, new plugs, new wires, new coil, i think thats it. oh yeah, my original thought was bad gas, as the car did sit for 12 years with gas in it, so i drained it for the 2nd time and added new gas. please help me!!!

my 78 z used to have that problem, although i never wanted to fix it cause thats the only way i knew my fuel was low (fuel gauge didn't work).

is the he 351 just an older/newer version of the hy35? if not, whats the difference?

i do have a FSM, in fact i have 2 myself. but when i go to autozone and look through the victoria british catalog to buy a new one it shows a single relay, this is why i was confused. i know exactly where that relay is i was simply confused. thank you for clearing things up, spacecase had me in complete misunderstanding.

it is to my understanding that the fp and efi relays are two different things. i have seen two separate pictures of the fp relay and it looks nothing like the efi relay. does anybody else possibly know where the fp relay is?

ok, i must be retarded but i still can't find it. i know exactly where the FI relay is but i can't find the fp relay. i checked under that box next to the battery next to the voltage regulator but i'm not seeing it. i do have an idea of what it looks like i looked it up in the victoria british catalog...ughh somebody please help me

thank you sir