240zwannabe

i don't like the thought of cutting springs. they're progressive springs so what negative effects would i be looking at if i did this? edit: the reason for swapping the suspension is because a '73 was my first z but the frame was jacked so i bought a couple of 280z's. well the '73 had brand new brakes, bushings, and painted suspension

your window is off the track...

the setup: 280z chassis complete '73 suspension eibach pro-kit springs tokico struts 17*8 front wheels & 17*9 rear wheels 215/40 front & 235/45 rear tires alright with that being said, heres the deal, it seems like my car is constantly squatting as if it were under some serious hammering. the rear has obviously been lowered an inch but it seems as if my front suspension hasn't lowered any. springs are in correct position (front and rear). any thoughts? or am i just paranoid?

definately go with the 1000-3000 rpm buffer. on the rare occasion that i'm forced to use an electric buffer at work it is nice to be able to vary my rpm, the only problem with electric buffers is they are hard to hold at a steady pace when not wanting to use the entire set rpm. this is where air buffers make their name..not to mention the extreme difference in weight.

beautiful build man. too bad you don't live closer, were the same age with all the same interests it seems. i too just joined the army...diver school here i come!!!

make sure you didn't put your calipers on upside down if you've had them out. the bleeder valve should be on top.

try switching the positive and negative wires to fix opposite operation?

laquer (sp?) thinner could possibly do the trick just don't get rowdy on the rubbing part. gently wipe it. or you could try a body prep solvent, treat this just like the thinner. the only problem with buffing it just straight out would be the possibility of it baking back out of the clear while sitting in the sun for long periods of time. personally i would try the two chemicals, if they don't work wash it off then wet sand that one spot and buff it.

ah yes, i would assume it has. i don't even remember 18 years ago...i would have been 1!

from my experiences with armor all it leaves a sticky residue

i was referring to globerunner's buffer...and the pad make a huge difference.

...anyway, back to the 4.0 jeep swap.... i've always wanted to do this myself. definately give it a try

i'm no good with photoshop but i too have a wild style. black wheels are becoming more and more common, i always try to think ahead of the latest trend and do something really outrageous for the time. volk makes crazy colored wheels, you might want to check those out.

i also wanted to add to beware of the commonly used "all wheel cleaners" i've used them a couple times at friends houses and i can smell a trace of acid within the product. acid will completely ruin your wheels. car brite products are generally only sold to companies but i did a quick search and found a place you can buy and ship to only iowa residents. i had no idea it was that exclusive. a friend of mine has his own detail business and directly calls a car brite salesman, so you might want to try getting ahold of the local detail/body shops and find a car brite salesman near you. you might also want to look into their "see spot go". it's a carpet stain cleaner that works like a dream. i know all 3m products can be bought at your local bumper to bumper. mirror glaze products... #26: http://meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+YELLOW+16 #40: http://meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+RUB+16

i "detail" for a living. i put that in quotations because it's more paint oriented than cleaning cars. but, i can help. at my work we use a mixture of brands. Car Brite products: we use car brite products for car soap called cherry bomb and a degreaser called blue max. cherry bomb some what smells like vodka. blue max can be used on wheels as well as paint as long as it's cut correctly, we cut it to about 3/16 to a full spray bottle, it's great for bugs if you apply as you wash. for door jambs we use an acresol called all sol works amazing on that grease that comes out of the hinges. Mirror Glaze/Meguiars products: we use meguiars (or mirror glaze, either way it's a meguiars product)#40 for interior cleaning, it cleans great and doesn't leave that nasty sticky residue. you may also use it on tires, it won't make them "blinging" but it looks good. we use they're #26 for wax. for any type of adhesive, use an adhesive cleaner obviously. we prefer 3m products for that and buffing materials

the buffer you have will do fine. the weight of the electric buffers makes it easier on you, although i use pneumatics on the daily. it's not the buffer you use it's the type of buffing pad.

globerunner513 did a great job explaining what to do. except i am an expert, i do this for a living. as you can see in some of the pictures he posted of the painted in sanded form, there is small spots of blue shine everywhere, for the best outcome you want to sand all that off. it will cause small spots of thicker texture than others if you don't. also, something that wasn't mentioned...you want to switch directions with your sand paper as much as possible, this will make the area look flat with so trace of "grooves" in the paint if looked at closely

wow, if a 3.54 r200 does that great on the highway i wonder what my 3.36 will do!

nice welds sir

AAAHHH PPHHIILLL!! no bueno on the hard tape line for primer!!!

thats probably the best find i've seen so far. they have a 1uzfe for sale for $329 in the lexus section if anybodys interested. and a 2jzge cylinder head for $50

thank you sir thats exactly what i wanted to hear

yes another one of those...no really. my completely stock 12a is really starting to get to me, it gets about 9 mpg, has trouble with overheating due to gearing and the weather here in ky, and carburetors suck in the winter. so with that being said, what do you guys think about dimensions? length wise i'm worried it might be too long for the slant of the hood. it'd be cheap, easy due to lack of wires from stock motor, and alot better for gas.

my friend bought one from a local performance shop around here that builds setups to fit the customer for his camaro ss. when i took off the tranny he had the same pressure plate already in there (he thought it was a stock clutch). the car dynos at 427 whp and 451 ft/lbs. i've personally had the car sideways numerous times and thought it held up very well

i can't seem to find a straight answer if the hx40 is a T4? i heard they break easily too, something to do with the shaft