OlderThanMe

Can you explain how you did it? I'm guessing the screwdriver was used to push the tensioner back into place. What was the coat hanger for?

Stock power at 150hp? maybe on paper...LOL Probably more like 100-110 at the wheels considering the age. For $1,000? L28 engine short-block with dished pistons: $100 P90 head: $200 if your lucky, P79 will work and is easily found. Turbo intake and exhaust manifolds: $120 T3 turbo with stock downpipe: $75 Z31 ECU and wiring harness: $75 bigger 370cc injectors with fuel rail: $250 air fiter: $50 for a nice K&N Personally I like the 4 speed unless you do a lot of highway miles. If it is an around town car then stick with the 4 speed. Good luck! Getting 180hp from an L24 is like beating a dead horse...It just ain't gonna work that well...

Here comes project F/I VH45DE!!! Right now I'm about 90% sure that a turbo is in the future for my engine...about 9% sure that a supercharger will be in there... and 1% sure that there will be both. The nice thing about a supercharger is that you have boost at just above idle. The thing with a turbo is the low restriction and high power levels...at high RPMs. What I want is lower horsepower over a longer RPM range. Maybe 500RWHP(stock flywheel HP was 278) but over a 4,000 RPM range. That is 250~ish hp over stock. Most guys slap on a big turbo and have power starting at 5,000 and then rev to 7000. Scenario 1: VH45 with a Holset HX40(bigger one), hx50, or BW S300(if cheap enough) mounted on the passenger side of the engine bay( I doubt I could afford twin turbos...along with twin wastegates...). Mounting the turbo up front is nice but in the battery area would be more practical (40 pound turbo...weight and center of gravity for the car). I'm planning on replacing the wiper movement inside with one from a Q45 or other nissan/infinity. The Q45 wiper motor is about 2/3 the size of an L6 starter motor so I'd say that isn't bad. Running inside the cowl or just below it inside the car I'll put air/water intercoolers or just air/air intercoolers and vent air pressure out of the cowl to the side of the car. Scenario 2: Supercharged, Don't know much about supercharging... Eaton M90's seem readily available in Junkyards so one of those may do. Should get good all around performance but would be out of breath by the time my intake VVT comes on. Scenario 3: twincharged. Pop a M90 on top of the VH and run a single turbo. an intercooler would be needed before and after the S/C. Air would need to take this path unless I use a centrifugal type supercharger: atmosphere---turbo---intercooler---throttle body---S/C---intercooler---intake manifold. I'm going to go eat dinner and think on this some more and maybe I'll be smarter by then. Cheers

Today I went to the boneyard and picked up some parts to resell and then pulled a wiring harness from a Q45 for my motor. I figure I'll use the stock harness for now and get the beast running before I mess with upgrading it. I was also looking at a 92 240sx with a KA24 and was thinking that the lower part of the intake would be perfect as an upper manifold for my VH45(trying to use as many pre-engineered parts as possible). I tried for about 2 hours to get the manifold off but it wasn't happening. Started getting cold and windy so I just left it half pulled apart. Got the TB from it though. I'm trying to figure out if I should use the one 90mm TB or if I could use two smaller ones like 60mm KA24 TBs or even a pair of 50MM Z TBs. Hopefully when I'm done it will look like a completely OEM engine minus the junk.

You can always come up with in-humane ways to capture and kill mice...

free door glass... 2+2 door glass is the same right? maybe too much to drive?

It was never really used... Look in the test area and there is a chat~ish thread in there with a bunch of random junk...LOL

Unfortunately most of us don't have a machine shop at our disposal...Just if.

Did you read this on that link? "The American racing Libre (NOT Libra) wheel from the mid '60s was the smaller brother to the 5 spoke 200s wheel. The wheel was intended for imports in the 13" and 14" sizes. Commonly 13x5.5" and 14x5.5" 13x7 and 14x7 were also available. Magnesium race-only versions may have been available as well, but I'm not sure. They were popular on the Datsun roadsters, 240Z, 510, early Toyota Celicas, Sunbeam Tigers, MGBs, Cortinas, and the like. (FWIW, rumor has it that Pete Brock himself styled the American Racing Lemans wheels) The Libre wheel has been copied by many over the years, but I can't tell you more than that. I believe Carroll Shelby Wheels may have copied the design. The wheels were also re-issued in the 13" size for the SCCA's Ford-powered Spec Racer (SRF), though these wheels had "SCCA" cast into them. The differences in casting of the reinforcing ribs behind the spokes, mounting surface thickness, and rim edge profile, vary between the various copies. All the ARE wheel have the identifying marks you mentioned. These sand cast wheels were not very well quality controlled in their day, and many recommend that the genuine vintage wheels be used today for show only, as there have been reports of failures of Libres at speed."

The sound from the 2JZ is from a space-ship or something...

In that vid they say(in comment below vid) 27 PSI on stock internals?????? For some reason I HIGHLY doubt that cast turbo pistons can handle 27PSI. That car was definitely fast though!!!

Is that safe? Those tubes aren't realy designed to be clamped on are they? I have seen something similar in the VW bug community...FWIW.

Maximum boost: ISBN: 0-8376-0160-6 Pages 102 and 103 for draw through and blow through carb setupson a L6. Also note turbo S30Z (280z?)on page 52(misprinted as a 280zx)

hmm... I'll show up in my Frontier at DNI if I have too... I want to meet you guys! Always wondered what the truck would do in the 1/4. Maybe with a special N-42 traction adder over the back wheels. LOL

Yeah... I saw it on a car for sale somewhere. Don't remember where. There is a "legit" way to make a 3.3 out of USDM parts without crankshaft welding. You'd still have 3mm+ cylinder walls too but lots of block work. I'm guessing that the 3.3 was experimental and may have required a LOT of work. The one Rebello 3.2/tripple weber I heard (belonged to GNOSEZ) sounded absolutely wicked. WOT through first and part of second gear in Fontana village... it gave me happy feelings.

That is Awesome Phil! I still think you'll see a big jump in HP if you go to a HX35/40 turbo that will have less exhaust restriction than your HY. Maybe on your next motor with your big cam... You are such an inspiration to us budget Z guys!

People put on a P90 not becuse of popularity, but because of detonation resistance and the larger chamber to lower the CR. Do you know the specific specs on the motor? Is it a small bore stroker or a large bore with the L28 crank? (guessing the second) With some KA24-spec pistons that have a 2.8cc dish you could achieve a 7.7:1 CR with P90 head. You could do a P79 just to be different or if you can't get a P90...it has the same chamber as the P90 but has small cast-in steel exhaust liners in the head. I'd love to see a blow through old school turbo motor built. You know Rebello made a 3.3 liter... saw it somewhere on the web. Guessing it has a welded stroker crank though.

Z with what I think would be really good aerodynamics with somewhat extensive body mods. Just lightly shaded for now. Should be finished by tomorrow.

It depends... There are a bunch of exhaust housings available. From 9cm^2 which should spool decently on a built L28 all the way to 23cm^2 housings which guys have used on 383 chevy motors with good response. Read up on http://www.theturboforums.com

BTW there is now a VH45-TH400 adapter... http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/290374

You basically need 4 rear flares from a 1950's to 2000 model VW STANDARD beetle(not the new bug) to do an entire Z. I think the front flares are perfect but would look better with better flares on the rear like the YZ or subtle Z rear quarters. Or you can go to victoria's dragon an pay way too much for them. You could also get some aftermarket fiberglass wider VW flares and work some magic...

I found a 280z window for my Z for like $12 at the junkyard to replace mine that had some chips in it. Scratch free perfect window! Someone had already taken the regulator too so it came out really easy! Just look around the junkyards until you find a good one.

There is a roadster that has been listed on Atlanta CL a couple of times for $500. Pretty much a rolling shell though...

I know he is ex-military... Watch the atom 2 video.

So you just said that eclpises never break timing belts and trannies????