OlderThanMe

The smallest map is an HX40 The standard high flow HX40 shows 80 or 60 lbs/min The tallest is a "super 40" from Holset's aftermarket division. The super 40 map shows a little over 90 for the "massflow perameter" or 68 lbs/min The wide one is a Holset HX52 The HX52 is 115. This corresponds to 87 lbs/min. Here is another H1E map.

I always wondered why older American cars and parts have "turbo" plastered all over them? Maybe putting the word on there makes you feel faster...LOL

It snowed once....then it was 70 degrees 2 days later.

I think you mean 200sx... There was no 240sx in 1977.

Copied from www.theturboforums.com I thought it was worth posting here. Ok, here is a very good do it yourself heat shield that anyone could do, and the end result is fantastic, just as good as the real deal if not better, as there is no welding on it, and wont cost you an arm and a leg. Go to the usual shops like k/mart, big-w, target ect... where you will need to find a large bowl, made of stainless steal. I used a stainless steel bowl of 0.3mm, already polished. Its thick enough to not flex/vibrate/bend, but thin enough to cut easy. Look for the design you would like and the shape of it, its up to you to find a look that you will like, i bought a plain and simple design, with straight walls, no bends or funny shape design. You can get aluminium ones, coppers ect... but i think stainless does a better job and ends up looking the best. You will also need to measure your rear exhaust housing diameter, so as to not get a too small one or too large. My turbo is 210mm o/d and the bowl I bought is 220mm, so i have a gap of 10mm between my housing and my shield. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Once you have decided on your bowl, you will need to make a template. I just used a thick cardboard to make my shape. Bend it to the shape you want, and sticky tape the other side on, so as to have the nice bendy/oval shape(see picture). Put it on your housing and try to get the best possible bend and the look that you want. Remember to get the width that you desire as well, and the lenght. On my turbo (gt42) i had small threaded holes on the rear part of the housing, so i shaped the cardboard and made the holes that you see behind it. This is where i will be bolting up the shield to the housing. I understand that every turbo is different, but if you have these holes at the rear of the housing, you can measure them yourself and drill the holes to match your housing. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now that you have a template to make your shield from, its time to cut the bowl to suit. So measure up your template, put it against the bowl and make the required markings where you will cut it off. You will be cutting of the head of the bowl(the top part where the handle is), and leaving the bottom part of it so you have something to bolt up to. I used a cutting wheel on a grinder, taped up the bowl section with masking tape on the part i will use, so not to scratch/damage it, and cut my shape. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Once cut,i used a fine file to get rid of the sharp ends, and then used a fine sanding wheel to get a smooth finish. I cut the lip at the front of it just a bit, to make it look more professional. Now all that you are left with is to put to template against the shield and mark the holes where you will drill, remember, put the template on the inner side of the shield when marking(not on the outer side), this will make sure you dont stuff up your measurements. Once you have drilled the holes, again, sand down the sharp edges that the drill leaves (tip: drill from the outside of the shield as this leaves edges on the inner shield where you dont see it). ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now to find the correct bolt size and thread that will match your housing thread and bolt it on, and your done!!! Then enjoy the mighty fine look it will give you as well as helping all that heat under your bonnet. On the australian/RHD, our brake master and clutch master is very close, it helps greatly with this shield. I couldnt be more happier with the end result. I paid AU$26 for the bowl, and did the labour myself, so that cost me nothing, In the shops, they are asking AU$250 for this piece. I have higher resolution pictures, but due to size, i needed to be fair to everyone and made them smaller.

SD30 engine? That is an awesome car! I'd buy it!(If I had the moo-lah)

You could just get some old Z wheels...LOL

Nissan did build a 4.5 liter modified V8 350Z...The front end was stretched out a bit too. Looked a little odd though. I bet Nissan is playing with V8 Z designs now... Probably a new 4 to 4.5 liter V8 engine design. http://thegarageblog.com/garage/nismo-releases-v8-350z-for-super-gt-championships/ What is in motorsports occasionally makes it to the production level. (too bad there was never a V8 280zx...)

... Hmm... That makes about a 750-900 horsepower Q45... sleeper... You can probabaly rip about 600 pounds out of a Q45 and still have the stock interior and keep it stock looking. LOL Around here you can get a great Q45 with around 100k miles for $2000...

V8 definitely has best bang for the buck... I am pretty sure you could see 400hp on a low boost SBC/SBF for under $3000 swapped. I mean I can get a V8 with tranny for $250 at the local yard!

Imagine the sound whn added onto a turbo car! TWIN TURBOS!!!

Just get some Ebay L24 pistons with rings and wrist pins for around $200. They are listed every couple weeks. I think they are the same brand as Victoria's dragon... I had decent luck with the Felpro gaskets but the valve cover gasket was tricky. Took some work with an x-acto knife to fit properly by the thermostat housing. $75 at the parts store.

I just discovered that the #1 and #2 crankshaft journals are toast on my crank and the #1 rod is dead. Good thing I decided to pull it apart first!!! Looks like the plastic timing chain tensioners broke up and got sucked into the oil pickup and blocked off most of the oil flow. Time for a different longblock! I now have a mockup block though!!

Pulled the driver's side head today... Then I got down and started pulling the oil pan and oil shield. I touched the #1 rod at the crank and it bumped over about 3mm. Crap! Pulled it out and there was no bearing at all! The #2 bearing was spun... Time to go back to pull-a-part and get another longblock... I think $85? I guess this block will be my mockup motor...LOL

click HERE and www.topspeed.com 4 inches shorter??

That guy was an amatuer... Check this guy!

Makes this station wagon sound like its 2JZ powered!!! LOL what a lie...

Just from my experience with the VH45... Probably 100 pounds of "junk" is on top of the engine. The upper intake manifold and throttle body weigh about 30 pounds with all of the valves and hoses on it. Remove all of the usless emissions junk and PS, A/C, extra heavy brackets off of the engine and it won't weigh 500 pounds...LOL Even the valve covers are heavy for their size! The VH automatic tranny weighs about the same or less than a L6 4 speed but the torque converter is heavy...

Look at the screen-name of the seller. "killillegalimmigrants" Sorta low-class to me.

Oops my bad... another typo. Right outside of the quench area is what I meant where clearances are close but not close enough.

Here is a picture of a VH45 combustion chamber. I am getting some better pictures with my own head but this all that I had online. There is a .055" step from the squish pad (between the valves)to the penthouse part of the chamber. MONZTER, Yes I have read all of the articles on that site. Great stuff!

umm... the cam will be fine. If you use L28ET pistons they will stick above the deck 1mm. They could be cut down a little to compensate though.

I would have to disagree with you on the idea that a flat-top is the ideal chamber for an engine (+ or - for turbo compression and valves). So far I have only talked about DETONATION resistance. I have other ideas on how a piston can enhance other aspects of an engine's operation. A flat-top piston does work great since it has good detonation resistance, and is cheap, but not ideal for a max effort engine. I think a piston with a "valve pad" that comes very close to the intake valve can create a great vacuum behind the valve and "suck in" slightly more air. Same goes with an exhaust valve but in reverse. Spent gasses are forced away from right behind the valve and into a more favorable exit path. I'm not knocking your work, as your engines have made good power and work. Thing is that engineering doesn't go by the tried and true old ways of engine building when other advancements in engines are taking place but our old heads, for the most part, still look the same. Yes that was a typo and I fixed it. Thanks. About the sharp lip, I tend not to believe that the sharp lip itself causes detonation. I think it is the place where the piston to head clearance is .035"-.045" which is most often right next to the sharp edge. The sharp lip does provide a place for super high heat and a place where the detonation shockwave could effect. Looking at my 1993 VH45 cylinder head(for a 10.2:1 SCR), the squish pads have a .055" little "shelf" that goes vertically from the squish pad before it starts to blend into the combustion chamber. Since the VH45 was Nissan's baby I believe that this was not for no reason at all. This seems to be part of the "all-or-none" squish idea that I am advocating. Obviously we cant have a perfectly sphereical chamber. The sphereical chamber part seems to me to be ideal for the combustion process, not really for anti-detonation in sense. Swirl needs to be induced for more even combustion which can be done by other methods. This is a Honda, and it does produce 300hp. The roof-top pistons are matched to the pent-roof chamber that the Honda engines have. For our closed wedge chamber heads I could see something like this but with one bigger wedge rather than two opposidte ones... That is exatly what I was thinking...Thanks for the pic Alan. Would you happen to have a picture of the combustion chamber of the same engine? Remember that the Maxima L24 also had dished pistons, not making use of most of the quench pad. I believe that with the exhaust liners cut out, the MN-47 can be an incredible head. Even with the liners it would be a great choice for any non-race engine. I believe that if detonation can be dealt with, then progress can be made to raise compression ratios and still be able to use pump gas. As-is, without further engneering of the combustion process in the L series engines, detonation is going to be the weakness of the L6. Also notice that one of the most powerful L6 powered cars on this site, owned by TimZ, uses NO SQUISH at all? Open chamber N42 head. So it seems to me that all parts of a cylinder head should either have full squish or have enough clearance to be out of the detonation zone.

Thought it might help somebody. $200 doesn't seem bad? http://atlanta.craigslist.org/pts/564360127.html

Love it!