OlderThanMe

Check out the VH45DE forum. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=193 There are a couple Aussies over there with bosted VH45DE's. I'm building one in process.

Dude that is slick! That engine looks HUGE in that photo. How much stuff is going to be removed? Power steering, A/C? Can't wait to see more pics of the car. Just my thought but... I think you should leave the body as-is just for a while at least. I also believe that the BEST hybrid Z's are built from 260Z's... not that I'm partial or anything.

The junkyard... Just disassemble 1.5 motors. That motor is in the pickups(IIRC)

The VK56 is expensive. The VH45 is cheap. Cheap means more Moo-lah can go into go-fast parts.

http://ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ I find this engine design program to be a little more useful than the Atlantic Z calculator since it has more part options.

N/A headers could also be made though. It's not THAT hard to fab a set of decent headers.

I actually like the mopar one in that vid. Turkey call BOV NICE!!! I likey! Nice and sharp sounding!

You know a V8 is the same length as a 4 banger. +/- a couple inches. Plus you have low RPM torque. Still trying to figure out a way to either disengage the front wheels for street driving or a t-case with a diff. On the fly shiftng would be great. How bad would it really scrub to have a locked T-case?

The main problem with 321 stainless here in the US is that it is about the same price as gold. Maybe if this was a maximum effort engine I'd use 321 stainless. I'm between 304 and 316 right now. This is mainly going to be a track car that will also be street driven and a lot of miles put on it. Pete S, The turbos should clear the stock framerails. I am pondering the option of making a couple VH45 swap kits including a new crossmember that will just bolt up. That way I don't have to mess with cutting/welding on the old crossmember.

Trash the stock EFI and go to carbs... No more weirdness going on. Or go to an aftermarket EFI.

Allrighty... I'm not far away from designing my turbo exhaust manifolds for the VH45DE. I think I'm going to go ahead and plan for twin turbos. Im thinking either twin HY35 turbos or a pair of mitsubishi TD05 turbos. I'm basically building a 2.25L engine but just two at a time. Twins joined at the hip you may say. 500 horsepower is what I'd like to start at... Then have plans for more. Turbo headers: Made from 304 stainless tubing .10" thick for durability. Flanges from 1/2" or 3/8" thick 304 stainless. JGS 50mm wastegates I'm going to bottom/side mount the turbos so that they will clear the stock VH starter on the passenger side and the Z steering shaft on the driver's side. That means the passenger side turbo will be shifted forward and the driver's side turbo will be shifted rearward. These pics are taken with a junk Holset H1E for reference Passenger side turbo that will clear the starter: Front shot: Rear shot: Now thankfully the Holset is a little larger than the Mitsubshi turbos so they would have a little more space. I'd engineer the intake tube for the turbo to pass through the engine mounts so that I can use an air cleaner. I imagine my exhast manifold will look similar to this 4G64-based unit but with different wastegate routing. I think I'd have the center two runers bend up to be longer and more equal-length. I'll be making 3 header pairs of my same design for Z transplants.

Check out www.theturboforums.com under the "knowledge base" area.

Yep... I have a similar thread in the Misc. tech section that I still use occsionally to hear about ideas from other people on my setup. The projects section was set up just for the point of having a clean thread where you can follow someone's progress and not have to wade through a bunch of "I like it" or "that's cool" posts to find out the content. Sort of like our own "cardomain" kind of thing...

I agree with Tony on removing the passenger seat... It's only 4 bolts! I'd hope you have some beefy suspension. a 400lb motor is quite heavy. You could pull the head and manifolds and put them in the back tied down to distribute the weight better. Or you could just rent like everyone else says... BTW my Z's 4 speed sat on the passenger's floorboard and seat for a whole semester while I was away at school.

How about an 84-88 Toyota pickup transfer case? 1:1 high range and 2.28:1 low range. Just lock it out of low range unles you need to go 'wheeling or tow something. Plus it outputs on the passenge side! HERE is a good place to read up on the Toyota T-case. An adaptor/front cover would probabl need to be made for divorce mounting the case but it may be worth it sine they are readily availale. As far as using differentials goes: An R200 out back is good insurance but up front it would be a waste of time, space, and weight as the forward diff is going to handle around half the power that the rear differential is going to feel. An R180 hardbody/pathfinder diff that is offset to the passenger side an has an extension tube to the divers side would work nicely as far as packaging goes. In another AWD Z thread BRAAP suggested using an R160 up front, but I do not believe that it would work with the reversed direction of the driveshaft unless the differential is flipped over (which may have possible lubrication problems). As far as dvorce monting the T-case, Mounting it by the rear diff would be easy but a long forward driveshaft would need to be fabricated. If the T-case were right behind/below the passenger seat then servicing individual drivetrain componets would be much more user-friendly. Whn I sit in the passenger seat of my Z my feet don't even have anything to rest on down there. If a foot rest was built shifted to the far passenger side then I don't think that an obstruction on the tunnel would be much of a bother.

Jon, you may have missed some threads. Here are some links to some AWD Z threads: AWD 240Z thread another AWD thread... BTW if you watch this video he obviously has at least a three speed. That has probably changed as Diomedes has seen a 2 speed in the car more recently.

Buy the book "maximum boost" by Corky Bell. You will have all the info you need in the book to size a turbo.

Repost, funny though.

If you look around here there is a pic of a Z doing a wheelstand with the nose 5+ft in the air running a R200 diff... I also think people underestimate the R180 for power capabilities. With about 30% power to the R180 it should be getting around 210hp.

PM sent.

Probably for the hot-rod crowd that are used to cars that don't handle. There are many other kit cars that are MUCH better looking for the same or less in price. Lotus seven is one... http://www.bruntonauto.com/kit/Kit.htm They have a lotus inspired roller for around $9,900 Prices: http://www.bruntonauto.com/kit/pricelist.pdf

Awesome! Almost as good as that Xbox comercial. http://youtube.com/watch?v=RKELjq5bmcU

There has always been a couple things with that car that bothered me. The bodywork is really great looking with the Porsche rear fender. I'm pretty sure tht the welds were laid with an orbital welding machine to be that consistant. I've never seen hand laid beads all the way around a tube that were THAT consistant. Like this: I've seen a small one in action and then one big one on a piece of 316 stainless steel tubing that was 3 feet in diameter with 1.5" thick walls. They used a TIG setup with a MIG wire feeder and made continuous welds all the way around. It made a very cool "S" or "8" weave pattern that was 1" wide. If you look at the weld on the tube that leads off to the wastegate from the header it looks kind of globby compared to the other welds. Nothing like the nice machine welds... I bet he paid a LOT of money for the setup and it is quite interesting. I doubt that the car has even 1500 miles on it to date though. Looks more like a show toy.

cool stuff! I like the way that Japanese take music so seriously!

Here is a post from the Nicoclub.com forums. On the 3rd age it looks as if it says Z31 right under the small pic of the transmission. Considering that the car is making 700+hp I am suprised that a Z32 transmission isn't being used. Perhaps the Z31 tranny can be built up for cheaper? Maybe referring to the differential? What is that below the oil pan? looks like some kind of oil return pump for the turbos driven off the flywheel or just placed there for convenient mounting? Also looks like the oil pan was just notched for clearance of the crossmember. TD06 turbos... Maybe someone that has more knowledge of the Japanese language can figure out some of the specs better than I can. I can just tell between the Japanese characters and the Chineese ones in there.