OlderThanMe

AAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!! http://pensacola.craigslist.org/car/537499609.html 1990 Geo - Windshield cracked. Door hinges missing on drivers side - door falls of when handle pulled and must be "placed" back on to close. Passenger side door will not open at all, probably for humanitarian reasons. Muffler fell off, now in back seat but you wont notice the noise because the shame will be deafening. Car would overheat if engine would stay running long enough but mercifully, it will not. Steering wheel loose and missing mounting nut. Front right brake rotor damaged when wheel fell off while driving. Many dents(several from my foot), scrapes, rust and holes here and there. Radio has "William Shatner Christmas carols" cassette tape stuck in deck, enjoy. Radio catches on fire at random. Minor smoke damage from radio and other misc. electrical fires though not on headliner as it caught fire as well and was thrown from vehicle. Front bumper fell off (I left it). Brakes squeak,wheels squeak, wipers squeak, everything squeaks and/or is broken. Headlights blink on and off, turn signals do not. Drivers seat mounting rails broken off in back, brick under seat. "New car smell" has given way to "old rat decomp". Stains on upholstery are primarily not urine related. Engine has original horsepower (both) and few of the critical parts have fallen totally off. Rust holes in floorboards covered with tattered garbage bags and duck tape scoop up exhaust fumes from missing muffler. Car will not make it, must tow (preferably on a trailer with a solid deck and sides to avoid leaving a trail of parts behind as they fall off during your trip).

Or take up 2 spots by parking diagonally... I haven't had luck with any other way.

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/car/539964121.html Here is one of your little hondas.. That thing is the coolest thing since the Gremlin!!!

Or put a row of spikes vertically on the back edge of your door and a sign that says "I bite back"

Is it AWD or not? I don't know all of the letters-definitions for the DSM cars. Either way just get a junkyard motor and stick it in there. I'd buy it if it was AWD.

375 torque is pretty cool... I think that an auto tranny would be better suited to a diesel though becuse of the more narrow RPM range that the engine operates in.

I guess I'm thinking of off-the-shelf parts and adaptors...no R&D required. Mazworks offers a VH to VG trans adapter for a good price and I consider that an "off-the-shelf" part.

True. But the adapters are available to purchase. T56, some group buy was going on but maybe it fizzled? VG, which also means RB, and RB-AWD trannies are a bolt-in possibility(bolts in to the VG bellhousing, think atessa AWD for truck or car application)... Mazworks Later VH41 auto with AWD is available(no adapter needed, upgrades for VH41 and VH45 tranny available to hold 800+ horsepower) Either way, from my obsevations, the VH45 seems like a more usable, mod-able, and repairble engine. It also appears as if an aftermarket is about to start for it too. Just my opinions and observations...

Where can I get the conversion kit :rockon:to put that F1 engine :trippen:in my plane?? All I need is the :mparty:engine right?

I like legos, I have played with legos since I was 1 year old...the VH45 is like legos. 2 diff. heads available, 2 different cranks, a couple tranny options with adapters(VK has to use the junky VQ tranny for manual), use a Z32 flywheel/clutch(once again, choices) with SR20DET flywheel bolts...Legos. (like the L and RB series engines) VH45 is widely available so it's cheaper when I break stuff (I could go get 5 complete VH45 engines with transmissions and harnesses tomorrow for under $1300 if I could pull them fast enough...try finding one VK for near that price in good shape within 35 miles of home. LOL) That is why I like the VH45 best for a modified V8. In fact I may go as far as to say for the Dollar/Horsepower ratio it is the BEST V8 out there. Beats the socks out of the cheby single cam V8 engines.

Tweety: Got pics? I'd like to see your setup!!! "make a short runner mani" How about my short-runner setup that uses stock fuel rails? Or Mr. Komiya's setup? Basically the same thing...

STOCK VH45: 6 bolt mains, 2 are crossed: Check molybdenum-coated pistons: Check all forged and micro finished(what engine isn't?) internals: Check vvt: Check 10.2:1 CR: Check hydraulic HLA: Check I still maintain that the VH45 is a better engine for modification. How many big hp VK45 engines have you seen?

If you pressurize the chamber AND add spark/fuel..................you would have a turbo spud gun! I'd just say be very careful with the acytelene...LOL It's not that great if you don't have a perfect fuel/oxygen mix. What about a diesel fuel injector right in the combustion chamber to inject the fuel?

1992 AWD Talon tsi $2100...upgraded!!! 240Z for great price in seemingly good shape LOW vin 710 race car bondurant... 710 Serial # JHL710-000026 Thought some of these were deals...more later.

Cut and fabricate mounts very carefully/slowly...How else??

Nobody NEEDS a turbo S30... unless you have a big trailer hooked up to the back and NEED a few extra HP...

Well I'm starting school this summer 30 miles from home... My truck gets 18-21mpg and 16-19 with A/C running, an EFI L6 gets around 30mpg if properly tuned with a good 280zx tranny. I think I'm going to implant some EFI onto my L26 and get it running/ driving again while I build the new VH45 drivetrain/frame. Here is the plan: Get comlete 280Z(X) or Maxima head with intake and complete running gear/harness for around $200 or less and slap it on there... With an N42 head I'd stay at 9.2:1 With a MN47 I'd go up to 10.2:1 With a P90/79 I'd go down to 8:1 I have a line on a "very good" MN-47 head so I'm probably going to go that way. My current head was an emergency, get it to run, kind of deal with valves from another head slapped in. I think the focus for this summer is going to be getting the VH45 setup and and bodywork.

There is another possible alternative using OE parts... Since VG and RB transmissions have the same center plate bellhousing bolt pattern...(is the AWD RB the same center bolt pattern as the RWD tranny?) get a Z32 VG bell-housing, Machine your adapter for engine of choice if not using VG engine (in my case it would be a vh45 for which an adapter is available from mazworks), AWD RB26 tranny bolted to VG bellhousing, Front frontier/other R200/R180 offset to passenger side, Other front suspension, (from almost any FWD car with McPhereson struts) Things to consider: Steering(maybe upgrade to power steering with all the extra weight) suspension mounting points reinforcement of frame/tube frame mounting engine without stock crossmember(slightly offset to driver's side for diff mounting?) redo brake system Hubs built with parts readily available in junkyards/cheap at parts stores so it is very service-able. Obviously this isn't for the feint of heart, fabrication skills, or engineering ability. Would it be with it? Drag car: Doubt it Autocross: most likely...what class? Road racing: maybe with using lighter R180/R160 diffs with decent gearing. Street: depends...snow? hehe Rally: yup! for sure Weapon: ABSOLUTELY! Is it right for ME? I dunno yet. Would be a great shop car to display fabrication skills... I've always wanted to try my hand at hillclimb/rally racing...

That was hilarious!!!

Got some info on the Borg Warner 1372/4472 T-case from the following link(page 10): http://rsgear.com/borgwarnercat.pdf Different descriptions seperated by lines... 1372* GM 90-97 S Blazer Trk/Bravada/ Cyclone/Typhoon with random pitch HV-033 3/8 Pitch x 1-3/4 W x 86 Pitches - RJ Note: 1 Blue Link & Combination Round/ Square Link Backs ___________________________________________________ 4472 GM 90-97 L Van HV-032 3/8 Pitch x 1-3/4 W x 86 Pitches - RP Note: 2 Blue Links & Rounded Link Backs Straight Pitch ________________________________________________________ 4472 GM 90-97 S10/96 Van Safari HV-033 3/8 Pitch x 1-3/4 W x 86 Pitches - RJ Note: 1 Blue Link & Combination Round/ Square Link Backs Random Pitch _______________________________________________ GM L Van All Wheel Drive Astro, Safari, and Cargo Applications with BW 1372/4472 Transfer Case - HV032 (Straight Pitch) The HV032 and the HV033 applications should not be consolidated or substituted for each other. The HV032 is a straight pitch design, and the HV033 is a random pitch design. If the rebuilder uses the HV033 Random Patterned Chain in the L Van application, the vehicle operator may hear an unsatisfactory “moan” or “boom” noise from the vehicle's driveline during operation. Conversely, if the HV032 straight pitch chain (all rounded back links) is used in the GM S Blazer truck, the Bravada, Cyclone, and Typhoon applications that use the BW 1372/4472 with a random chain design, the vehicle owner will hear a whistle or whining noise. _____________________________________ I'd like to hear some thoughts here... Just from my thinking it feels that the van T-cases would be stronger since they had to carry more load.

I say build it with a standard USDM spec block to get a better rod/stroke ratio. Here is the satup I'd like to see: L28 block bored to 89mm, L20A crank, LD28 connecting rods, KA24 pistons, and your E31 head or P90. Pistons will protrude 1mm out of the deck. With the E31 you get a SCR of almost 10.3:1 With the P90 the SCR is just below 8.5:1 It ends up being a 2.6 liter that can rev and last. The rod/stroke ratio is 2:1 with a maximum rod angle of 14.414 degrees. A L28ET should get close to 30MPG with a good tune. I knew a guy that got 29MPG with SU carburetors!!! BTW I have a set of those 140mm rods sitting around... If I had an L20A crank I'd build that motor up there^. It could rev to the moon and back a few times...

Doesn't the WRX have the front diff integrated into the transmission? That would mean that you would have to hang the motor way out front... I like the idea though.

I'm a member of the AWS (american welding society) and get their welding journal every month. Very cool stuff in the magazines. It's like $25 to sign up if your a student and worth it!

Just the Hilux transfer case... I'm guessing it's divorced (not bolted to tranny) I don't need to think about this... It's tempting to resolve traction problems that my engine will give me. The easy tranny to use if staying Nissan (and had $$$$) would be the RB26DETT Atessa tranny... Didn't some of the high end Q45's have the atessa setup?

So to build a monster like this... I'm guessing you would get a front diff from a nissan pickup(as in picture) some kind of center differential/transfer case, and the same ring and pinion gears front and back. When did Nissan put a R200 up front in the pickups? I'm guessing current Frontiers have them? The attached pic is a 1990 pickup diff. (R180?) Answered my own question front diff writeup on nico club. "C200 and R200A [short nose] gears ARE INTERCHANGEABLE. Yes, the same part numbers are used for the same ratios in the Nismo catalog for both diffs." C200 is just the rear diff in the solid axle. That brings the question if a C200 ring and pinion can be used in a R200 short nose to bolt in the back of a Z... Hmm... easily matched OE diff ratios!