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HybridZ

OlderThanMe

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Everything posted by OlderThanMe

  1. Thanks guys! The welder I'm picking up is a Lincoln 135... Never used with gas tank and cart for $350. I'll go look on the lincoln web site to see the wattage requirements. Thanks!
  2. He has "spacers" to make the wheels flush mount with the kit... EEK!!!
  3. I'm not worried about your welds...TIG welds are quite strong. Much stronger in fact than your steel tubing. It is the HAZ (heat affected zone) that I'm worried about. when you put the weight of an engine on such a small area of base metal you will likely deform it. The metal in the HAZ is also good bit weaker than most of the area around it that never rose to critical temperature that changes the characteristics the base metal. Guussets will let you use the compression strength of the round tubing and not just the strength at the weld joint. Looks rockin! OTM
  4. That's right folks! I'm looking into buying a decent air compressor and a 4000+ watt generator. I have about $650 to buy the two. 60 gallon air compressors are about $350 in craigslist Like this: http://atlanta.craigslist.org/tls/515640090.html I really need a good generator because I am going to be doing a bunch of welding and using the air compressor. Any good brands to look for/stay away from for the generator or air compressor? I'd like to hear any experiences that you guys have had with certain brands/sizes of generators or air compressors. HF has this nice 29 gallon, 4hp tank that can do about 14CFM @ 90PSI for around $340~ish. Would that be worth it WITH the warranty? Thanks! OTM
  5. The mounts look good. One thing you may want to do is add some gussets under the flat plate that is mounted to the tubing... Just for good insurance since you are going to have PLENTY of torque.
  6. Umm... OK. I didn't know that the 260z "E88" head was drilled for fuel injectors. Mine isn't...
  7. So who will be the first to put an LS9 in a Z?
  8. "MN-47 doesn't need eyebrowing the block" This is not correct for a stock 83mm bore. If you look at an L24E engine block it has eyebrows in the bores. They are smaller than the ones in an L26 block but they ARE THERE!! I don't know why the eyebrows are smaller on the L24E block because it has the same size valves as a 260Z E88 head (I have a set of maxima MN-47 valves in my 260Z E88...)
  9. OK so I am just learning more about my version of solidworks... There were a BUNCH of things I didn't learn in my Solidworks class at college... This is just practice and it will be completely re-done...I was up until WAY too early this morning working on this. I will need more room to clear steering stuff I believe.
  10. From the album: Solidworks sketches

    OK so I have a new respect for guys that design headers... LOL
  11. Unfortuntely the crank is already owned by another member here... If he wants to give it away that is his own business... And for such a perfect little beauty of a crank that it is I don't think he will...
  12. INCREDIBLE!!! Programable engine management!!!!!! Woohoo!
  13. I'm in Atlanta BTW... If not gone by new year's they will be sold for scrap.
  14. 2 FREE engine blocks 1: N42 block with some light rust in the bores. Otherwise it is grease and grime free. (87mm bore) 1: V07 engine block from an LD28 with the stock 84.5mm bores. GREAT SHAPE. It's just greasy like you think a diesel would be... I'll ship if you REALLY want me to. Shipping+boxing+ $15 for my trouble...
  15. I believe Max and his Zzzap live in different places... and in need of a non-dead R200.
  16. I knew an older guy that had a 280Z and his brother raced another 280 in IMSA and ran an L6. The brother ran "corvair" forged pistons and bushed the connecting rods because getting forged custom pistons was REALLY expensive. Aparently it ran really good.
  17. I was reading about that DEVAS in "Automotive Engineering" by the SAE I believe. Very cool. I think we will see a LOT of new technologies in the next 10 years.
  18. Wedge: Thus starts the VH45 aftermarket...now. Here is the base of my exhaust header design that I sketched up this morning...Dimensionally correct. Hopefully I'll be adding tubes soon.
  19. Many aftermarket ignitions ave an imobilization wire that you could attach to a switch (preferabally not within reach of the driver's seat) Or just yank the rotor out of your distributor. I do that when I'm downtown. I don't really have anything on the interior that someone would want to steal...
  20. Barrel valve would be interesting. Some simple calculus could find out the area between the two curves so that a proper cam could be made to actuate the barrel exactly so that depressing the throttle 50% would allow 50% throttle exatly. The slide valve and barrel methods would probably be easier to fabricate but I believe the pintle/spike method would be able to flow smoother through the full range of RPMs. For the complexity it would probably not be worth it unless you were running in a restricted racing class such as FSAE, then it would be invaluable.
  21. DUH... What did I miss? lol Mechanical would be the easiest I think. By not having any disturbance in your perfectly straight and long intake tract... That way it could be modeled and calculated more accurately without having to factor in a metal shaft right in the center of the intake tract. True... Now if someone could develop a throttle plate that had no shaft running through the runner... Then turbulance would go down a bunch(IMO)
  22. I was thinking of the benefits of not having a throttle body in the intake tract... It wold have the benefit of ITB's without the turbulance. It would be MUCH easier to utilize the Helmoltz resonation properties.
  23. I just found this "pintle-regulated" induction system. http://www.prvperformance.com/ I thought it would be VERY interesting to discuss here. I wonder how much throttle modulation you would be able to have. I guess that would be dependent on how far the pintle enters the intake runner tract and how you control the pintle. (stepper motor, hydraulic, pneumatic, or mechanical control) Wht are your thoughts? OTM
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