OlderThanMe

Well I am looking at designs for VH manifolds for my engine. Some VH ITB's being done up in the UK. under-ITB runners on left and ITB's done on right. another view: a third view: R390 twin turbo: Note pressure equalizer tube at rear of engine(closest to photographer) Of course all of these later ones are done by racing teams with backing by $$$$$$$$$ or by Nissan. Neither of which do I have. I'll just look and learn. What I do have is plenty of time to work out a design and access to SolidWorks. I have access to a CNC Plasma table(for relatively cheap) to cut out any exhaust manifold flanges that I may need. For exhaust I may end up doing a front or side mount. A side mount could locate the turbo in/around the battery box area. I'd really like to do a top mount but don't want to go more than 4" higher than the stock hood level which I don't think will be possible with a top mount HX50 sized turbo. A GT4202R seems like it would be perfectly sized for the VH. That is if the HX50 map doesn't turn out to be close enough of a match. I'll be posting updates and initial measurements from my intake and exhaust manifold design soon. OTM

33 years? that is an odd number... I thought Alabama was the same as GA and had a 25 year limit.

thanks i dont want to sell it [the 240Z], you know how it is. - ezskmc This is what he said when I contacted him about the trans not being original.. OTM someone really should put a 383 in it... That is a way cool idea Pop.

Once in my VG33 frontier Vs. one of those $50k 4 liter Lexus cars (sc400 I think? Something that had 400 in the name.) He had me by about half a car BUT... with an LD28 in my bed. (tied down like Fort Knox...LOL) That was pretty fun with my glorious 175hp and 2000RPM torque peak + a lot of weight. With all the weight and the tall suspension it just squats like a stock Z's rear suspension and feels like the front is about to come off the ground...lol I guess it was the engine sitting at the very back of the bed.

When I installed my illuminas they installed just like any other strut insert. If you convert to coilovers (which I highly suggest) you SHOULD use camber plates and DO NOT modify the stock hats to hold the springs. I did that and my springs rub on the threaded sleeves. Dan

Matt, is that the one you and Austin painted blue and then scrapped? Not rust but it does have some that scraped of onto it... Rust repair is next on the list with the VH45 installation. The floor is still solid though. Pounded it with a 5 pound sledge to prove to a passenger that they would not fall through...lol rusted during it's 5 years of siting. Car ran over a curb or something rather large back in the mid-late 80's. Header before cleaning and painting: Looks 1000% better now. The car actually isn't that bad. The whole area under the battery box is gone but I was expecting that. From inside engine bay looking at passenger floorboard

Max, The thing with the VH is that the intake runners point like straight up. (well the mounting surface is flat, the runners are angled heavily inward right at the back of the valves) I want my ITB's to be right in line with the runners so that may add some height. Now it may be possible to cram the turbo down in-between the ITB's and just use a LOT of heat shielding. I'll pull my intake manifold in the morning and play with my core holset to see if it is even a possibility to mount it like that. Thanks for the idea! Pics of VH motors:

After playing with an HX40 compressor map for a while and comparisons with a 5.0 ford guy it seems that the HX40 will be out of breath by 5500RPMS. The HX50 should spool by 3300-3500 (guessing from a comparison)on a stock displacement VH45. I really do need a REAL HX50 compressor map to work from. A 5.0 ford guy said the HX50 spools at 3000 and never runs out of breath. For my higher revving VH that sounds just about right to spool 500-700 RPMs later. Controlling VVT with the Wolf and some other turbo tricks I should be able to get the HX50 spool down at 3000.(just trying to find a HX50 map on the web...) If the HX50 is NEAR the Pro52 then it looks promising. If all turns out well I'll buy a new or rebuilt turbo since staying with the auto tranny will save me some money.

I'll probably be running the 4" exhaust from the top mount through the battery box area and a couple 4" bullet mufflers and then down to a 5" sidepipe with some baffleing that I'll make to be removable. That is the current plan anyways. A6t8vw: You may want to run dual 2.25" or 2.5" exhausts rather than a single 4"er. My car has about 5" of ground clearance so that is why I am going to run the exhaust to the side of the car tucked right up under the passenger side door. The rocker panel will be cut out and replaced with a piece of metal that curves inward like on the Ford Daytona to help scoot the exhaust inward. Maybe I can get my hands on some used diesel exhaust bends to use to make the exhaust from. I hope it won't be too loud... I'd like it to be just as loud as my L26 with header, 2.5" pipe and empty turbo muffler. (i.e. you can only hear it from a half a mile away at redline, not more...) The whole exhaust will be attached by about 4 or 5 V-band clamps in various places so that the exhaust can be removed in a few minutes.

Indeed I am...

First gen Maximas(80-84) came in two forms. 4 door sedan(IRS) and a station wagon(solid axle). Do you know if the spare is any different?

Wow... Somebody has been smoking too much hair in jail. good grief...

For the record the stock early Z spare fits over the smaller solid rotor toyota 4x4 s12 calipers. (Not that you won't have problems with it locking up really quick..)

(I like the yellow Nissan patrol that wheelies once he hits boost)

(newest of the three) I can't seem to figure out what is causing the popping. It is really bad now with the Mallory 6a ignition box but the same thing happened with the MSD 5900 and with the stock unit. It sounds as if one more backfire will blow the muffler off the back of the car...I did figure out that my oil pump shaft was off by 2 teeth which was the timing thing. I'm guessing something is up with the dizzy? The spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor have aout 11k miles on them...

Very unique indeed! You would definitely want to route the wastegate gasses elsewhere. Don't want to melt a hole in your VC...

I wonder how many people die every year from that... I don't see how they do that without flipping over. Maybe it is just one guy that does all the videos??

These videos are what made me decide to go VH45. Marcg is the guy with the VH powered, T56 trannied, 240Z. He's not on here much...Mostly on nicoclub.com

You know that was a hybridZ member right? "Marcg"

I think that one is the 1000hp boat everyone talks about.

Don't worry about it. You will get it after enough practice. I have over 350 hours between welding, part setup, and cleaning just for TIG welding. Probably only 30 hours of actual weld time in all that. Just find your groove that works best for you and run with it. It just takes practice!! and a LOT OF IT! My BEST WELD EVER was made half lying on the floor welding on a steel "T" joint that was 36 inches from the floor in the overhead position. Go figure that out. I still have it around here somewhere rusting. Good luck in your project! If you haven't seen it Miller welding has an awesome set of resources: TIG amperage calculator Tips for TIG welding and what tungsten to use They also have some more basics stuff elsewhere. Hope that helps you in your quest for the 99% perfect weld! I also have my 8 pound welding textbook around here somewhere...

Austin, Very good progress man! Pretty good welds too! Just keep working on different TIG weave patterns to find one you like. Personally I like the zig-zag and crescent weave patterns. Crescent is the easiest to keep a nice consistant TIG weld for me. Keep us updated and I'll be watching as you progress!

It is... when you compare it with a stock bore to an N42 with a stock bore. The cylinder walls aren't as thick on the F54 block which makes them more prone to flexing out and allowing piston blow-by when using high compression or boost with a large overbore. OTM

At ZdayZ I asked this question some of the Z guys at the tech q&a time. Supposedly there are some companies out there that can put new pad material on the old steel plate. You just tell them how thick the pad needs to be and they can put a custom compound on there. I'll have to look up the name of the company.

Yup! That is the perfect drivetrain for the S2000 though. Honda should have done that in the first place...a 3 liter L6...