OlderThanMe

If you can spend the extra money get the Millermatic 180. www.cyberweld.com has the best prices and free shipping. $779 for the Millermatic 180 with regulator. If you are going to be doing a lot of stuff on a Z like exhaust, floorpans, and roll cages you will want the little bit of extra adjustability. Thin sheemetal is really hard to weld on with a mig because of the high amount of force being pushed at the metal when it is hot. There isn't much worse thn being almost finished with a project and then blowing a big ugly hole right in the middle of it with your MIG wire. Unless the Hobart is REALLY cheap I'd want to go with the Miller. retrofitting the Hobart is an interesting idea. I am guessing it is a Hobart 175 which is different than the newer 180 series so parts may not interchange so you'd need stuff from an older millermatic 175. Maybe Ebay? Good luck and enjoy the bacon sizzle!!

I like this project a LOT! I have an extra LD manifold that I would love to play with for my L26 testbed motor.

I have an L26 that has the higher compression 240Z flat-top pistons in it. The rest of the longblock is basically stock except for a light-weight flywheel. Then it has early 240z SU's and a header/2.5" pipe and hollowed out muffler. I was able to maintain 135 @6500RPMs fairly easily for a couple miles (checked with gear ratio calculator...Speedometer said 155mph...LOL) If you put any 260Z or 280Z head on a L24 block you need to notch the cylinder walls to clear the valves. The L26 "P30" block is identical to the L24 "P30" except that the L26 block has the valve notches already in the bores for larger intake valves. If driven well you can keep up with most modern cars... I kept a lead on an 03' corvette once Just because I wsen't shifting all the time..

Just if you didn't know... Rutoleum is Lead based... Remember that when you remove it from the car you had better use some kind of liquid remover to not get paint dust in the air.

telescoping intake manifolds??? Just look through the FSAE web sites for much less leaky designs... There are ways to make a manifold variable than having the runners actually extend and shorten. If you have a long and a short manifold going to the same cylinder you can creat any length in-between the two lengths by modulating the butterfly on the short runners. Much more reiable/less leaky and it can actually work with boost... I may try to rig something up with my LD28 manifold to be a variable intake for my L26.

I have always had a feeling that a G-nose with a vertical wall going straight down from the front edge of the bumper would be a lot better than the standard G-nose that directs air to the underside of the nose. Just a thought... OTM

interesting... I'll keep that in mind. Thanks!

I agree with Terry there. If you want there is a LONG article that I found written by Ernie about bodywork... Just search. (it is not on HBZ)

I'd probably run a 4" tube back to the tranny tunnel and then split into dual 2.5" tubes. I'll decide during test-fitting. I don't think sidepipes would really work with the design sketches I have for the body. I may have to move the alternator elsewhere in the vehicle.

I think I have changed my mind about the top mount...lol I'll probably end up with a GT42-ish turbo mounted up front. There may be room to mount it low on the passenger side though. I'll decide when I have the motor in the engine bay. Dan

Hey Guys, Ernie/RacerX and I have been exchanging emails some and I pointed him back to this thread because he had not been back to HBZ since he first posted this thread. He can't post on here any more so he asked me if I would post this for him. Quote from Ernie: " Please say "Thank you" to everyone that took the time to respond to my "Sayonara post" and how much I appreciate their kind words and support. Those people are the core group of guys that make HybridZ the fantastic site that it is - bar none!!" Ernie is a great guy and I hope he will be back some day ! Dan

hehe. I am going to use the auto trans. I hav a feeling the VG30DE trans would explode after a couple power adders. I am going to work with the EMS(wolf) that I will be using and try to manually control the transmssion(little paddles behind steering wheel) I think a set of paddles from an RX8 would do nicely... I am going to be building the manifolds with turbocharging in mind but will be driving it around N/A until I can get the tranny set up and get the EMS tuned and running well. I am also going to buy some fabricatioon tools and start turboing imports, etc... to make some money to pay for all of the VH stuff. Sorry that I have been gone for so long. Dan

I believe the Vh41 has the alternator in the middle top of the engine rather that on the passenger side as in the Vh45

Not until you tune and get REALLYYYYY big injectors!!!!

Somewhere a guy in the UK showed how he cut his 240 bumper up and made one of those rally bumpers out of it for his rally replica. I think he is on zclub.net... I'll find a link. *edit* pics... I'd like to see something like this on Big-Phil's Z!

Oh... never seen that side of that head before... Thanks Jdarkme!