Cody 82 ZXT

One thing that I think may have contributed to his slippery ride would be the tire mold release gel. Haven't you noticed how slippy new tires are for awhile. I'm sure the AA couldn't have helped matters. Some people just don't deserve what they have. I'd love to have an IS300.

I love that 510 thats exactley what I need to haul my kids around in. Thanks for the idea.

Looks great Rick, Can't wait hear how it runs.

One thing that I think people forget is that to really take advantage of the added volume of the engine you need to have the head worked. That is one reason that Jeffp's car is running so well. It flows air very well. In some of the other post he mentioned that his car is making the same power at lower boost levels than some of the other cars with similar configurations. Yes the added stroke and bore help but, if it dosn't flow right it won't make the power your looking for.

Get a new front cover. There are not that much at a pick-n-pull.

Rick, I just removed enough material to match the factory gasket. I had to remove almost 1/4" of material from the outlet. My turbine inlet was the same as the factory gasket but, the mainfold was much smaller . I'm begining to wonder if the cars that came with an automatic had a smaller opening than the cars that can with standard in them. I've seen several manifolds and some of them seem to have different sizes of outlets. Has anyone ever thought of selling ported stock mainifolds?

Heres a couple of pics. of my exhaust manifold that I ported the other day. I spent quite awhile working on it. The pictures really don't seem to tell the whole story here but, I removed a ton of metal from the outlet mostly. The outlet into the turbo was much smaller than the inlet of the turbo itself so I gasket matched that and cleaned up the runners. For the guys that have done this before do you think I should remove more metal from the runners?

Sorry about that heres my second try for the other two photos

What type of oil and filter are you running? If you are going to wait until atleast 3000 mile you really need to be running a full synthetic oil. I personally use Mobil 1 but, there are several quality oils out there. You said this is just the second time to change the oil. I guess this means that you just bought the car right? Has the car sat before you got it? What about the history on the car. Did the previous owner change the oil on time? If not it may take a few times to get all the junk out. I agree with Lockjaw that a turbo car will have lacker oil then a N/A car. It always been true for me atleast.

Greedy Profec B Simple easy to use and adjust on the fly.

I've already got an e-mail from the guy, here is what he sent me. I love to see something from this. I sent 4 hours today porting my stock manifold. Still if the power is there from this then it might be worth swapping out.

Tim, Do you think it could be the seals on the turbo itself? I've had that happen before the seals go bad and the oil seeps past into the intake track while in vaccum. Most of the oil gets caught up in the intercooler but, during boost it gets pushed in. You might pull some of your intake pluming and take a look at the pipes to see if you have any oil in them.

Heres the pics.

Lockjaw, Send me the pics. I have a place I can put them so they can be uploaded. I have to warn you it will be later tonight before I can do it though. I'd love to see the pics. Send them to me even if you send them to someone else, if you would.

Total Seal rings work by not having a gap in the ring. I don't know about a web site but, if you look around you'll find one that has a picture of them and you'll see that the expanding area has a overlap that will close any gap that might let combustion gasses go by. NormaL rings must be turned 180* from each other to help prevent the combustion gasses from excaping into the crankcase.

Mike's got some good pionts here. Nothing put more stress on an item than hard racing. Mike is in the buisness of selling quality race parts and I find it hard to believe he would endorse an item that would fail.

I know Corkey has one but, I've never heard any particlars on it. Any one have any details? I would think that if the flange was pointed straight down then the turbo might hit the block once it was clocked right.

As far as what wheel you can run I guess the answer is really what ever will fit in the wheel wells. There are some guidelines that you really need to follow though. I think the biggest thing is to try and keep the center line of the new rims as close to the orginal center line as possible. I have 17 x 7.5's on my ZX and they fit better than the stock rims did. They can make the adapters to fit what ever lug pattern you would need. I think they try and stay away from going from 4 lug to 5 lug though. If you need a 5 lug pattern then it is really best to swap the hub out with one from a 300ZX. Theres proubly more to it then just swapping the hubs out but, since I've never done it I'm not sure of the particlars on the matter.

If you think that you might want something bigger in the furture you might as well go ahead and do it now. As far as 15 inch rims are conserned there is a limited selection nowdays for rims that are the right offset. I had the Centerline Stars for several years on my car and the look is a little dated in my opinion. But, then again we're not talking about new cars here are we. If you step up to a larger diameter rim you will have a much better selection of rims and tire choices. I know the adapters add to the cost of the set up but, they really open you up to the world of modern rim sizes and styles.

If they can weld new flanges on the outlet then why couldn't it be welded back together? No dought it would take a very qualifided welder to do the job right. The size inside the manifold doesn't seem to be a restriction. I think it's more the size of the ports and the outlet into the turbo. Also I'm sure most of us have seen the pics of cars that have a new flange welded on in the middle of the manifold and use the stock outlet as an area for a external wastegate. This would require some serious mods to the downpipe and might come in contact with the air conditioning compressor but, for cars that don't have air and are still in the preproduction stages it might be something to look into. Just think of how straight and long you could make the first 6 inches of the dowpipe if you moved the turbo 4 or so inches forward in the engine compartment. I wonder if we could find out how much a low production run of cast manifolds would cost if we designed one and had some made? Anyone have any contacts here? Someone we know has to know someone that could help us out.

Hopefully by the end of next week I'll have mine ported with some pics. to show how much can be taken out of the manifold. If you've ever looked into the mainfold you can see there is ample room for improvement by removing material in the inlets and at the turbo flange. I'm hoping to open mine up to flow enough for 350 to 400 hp without to much restriction. Not that the stock design is all that good but it sure does hold up to some abuse without cracking like some header type of mainfolds can. Don't get me wrong I'd pony up for a good stainless header if the price and design was right.

I just got my new clutch about an hour ago. Heres a look at it. I bought it from Dial-A-Clutch.com. Hopefully this will hold the power and be streetable. Its got a organic disc and what looks like a very heavy duty pressure plate. I may have to replace my hydraulics on my clutch for this bad boy.

I guess I fianlly have something to add here. TimZ was talking about a swing valve in the turbine housing. Right? Anyway I think that the second generation RX-7's had something like this on their cars. If you could controll this smoothly it seems like it would really answer a few questions. Welcome Jeffp. Glad to see you fianlly found this board. It's seems to have better info then some of the other boards out there.

You might look at the post about L28 cams. It turned into a long discussion on turbos and engine management. There is some good info in there. Also look at my post about engine combinations and forged pistons.

Thanks agian Lockjaw, I'll be ordering the headgasket in the next couple of days.