Cody 82 ZXT

Just curious did you do this before installation? The only reason I'm asking is to see if your leaked also before you coated it. Any tips on using the copper coat? It's just spray and let setup right? I haven't used any in about 5 years or so. Thanks for the quick reply

Yes, it can be done and has been by many people. Just curious though how do you plan to control the 440cc injectors? 350 is proubly about the high side of the stock electronics. Several people are switching to SDS with good results. also JWT has some almost plug and play setups that have proven to be good for this much HP and more.

Ok, Heres my deal that I've got going on right now. I fianlly got to start my engine after the rebuild and trouble shooting a bad starter soleniod(real pain.) Just a few minuites after getting the car running I noticed that I have coolent seeping out from between the head and the block. I had the head decked but, did not have the block done. the block was checked and I found it to be within spec but, not perfect. I installed a .06m metal head gasket from Nismo dry. Was I supposed to use some sort of sealer? I thought that I had read to install it dry. I also seem to be burning some coolent as the exhaust tailpipe is now a rust color which leads me to think that I have coolent in the cylinders. One cylinder is super clean while the others are dirty. Obviously I have a proublem. Should I pull the head and use a sealer on the metal head gasket or just put it on the shelf and use a stock head gasket to make sure the engine is sealed up good. I was hoping to use the metal head gasket for better sealing at higher cylinder pressures and for alittle higer compression ratio.

Len, About the turbo's when you have a larger one that flows more air more efficently you just don't run as much boost. 13 psi from a t-3 is like 10 or 11 from a hybrid. That all depends on the flow capabilities of the unit. The reason that people upgrade is to run a more effient compressor for the amount of CFM that they need to produce the amount of desired HP. A smaller compressor may can produce the same air flow at a higher pressure but, it will do it with much more heat then the larger compressor. Heat is the enemy! That's why we intercool our cars. Right! The stage 2 turbine wheel is simply a wheel that is cut a little on the end to help reduce backpressure and allow for more flow out the back end of the unit. Remember if it comes in it must go out. Sounds like you have several items already to produce a good amount of HP. I think most turbo shops are doing just about all water cooled anyway so it shouldn't be a proublem. Our turbos are Garret and they are very interchangeble with other units from the same maker. Anyway, if you can't find anyone in your area let me know. I had mine done at Majestic Turbo here in the Dallas area. Hope I shed a little light on the subject for you. What I wrote is very simple and I was hoping one of the Turbo guru's out there would chime in and be more specific about what you need. Also When I get a chance I'll send you a couple of pics of my turbo just so you can see what it looks like compared to yours.

To check to see if you are running lean try an EGT (Exhaust gas tempature) gauge. The higher the reading the hotter the exhasut. Opinons seem to vary alittle on what is the optimum temp to run at but, it seems like around 1500* works well while under full boost and load. You could also try a Wide Band O2 sensor but,the entry cost on one is quite high comprared to a EGT gauge. One of the best ways is to run a on a dyno at a shop that has a WBO2 and see what the readings are.

jhgghf

Len, I have a simple t04b and stage 2 turbine wheel. It also has the water and oil center section that you are wondering about. The larger compressor will make a tremendous difference in the car. If you are still using the stock turbo and change to one like this or larger you won't beleive the difference. The upgrades are not much more than a regular rebuild as you will proubly need to have the wheels replaced any way. Why not do it now? I didn't have to modify anything other than the way the compressor pipe fits . It's fits a little different than before. Shouldn't require any changes though. There are so many options out there that it will make your head spin. Several of the guys on here have real connections with turbo builders or that is what they do. Hopefully one can help you with a choice and a deal when it come time to rebuild.

I agree to that. I can take apart and put back together almost anything but, wireing is my weak piont. The sad part of that is that I love all the electrical accessories that are avaible now. I mean, I can hook up a sterio and all but, some real advise with trouble shooting would be nice.

Sorry double posted...

I've seen the same thing about ATF (Mustang guys)in the T-5's but, have never seen or heard of any of the Z guys running it like that. I have and do currently run Redline MTL in mine and it made a huge difference over the cheap stuff I had in it. The car wouldn't shift in cold temps then I changed to the Redline and it shifts perfectly no matter what the temp. I'd be intreasted in the ATF if anyone can verify that the info is correct. Cheaper and more avaible.

I just run a new stock radiator with the stock fan. It does fine here in Dallas even during the summer with the A/C on. I think the stock stuff works good when it is new or near perfect condition.

What condition is the ignition system in? I would think that it's possible for the ignition system to not be able to keep up with the demand at higher RPM'S and load situations. Since you said that it works perfetly at some times it makes me think that you have loose wire or short possily a ground wire that could be not letting your system have full currrent. When was thwe last time the cap and rotor were changed and all that?

Sorry can't help you with the info. on the AAC but, I am curious as to why you are going to use it and not just take it off? Seems, like that is what most people do when they go to an aftermarket F.I. system. Thanks

Do a search for Delta Camshafts. They had some for a real good price. I don't remember the specifics right now and the link I have for them is broken but, Try that.

About the paint. I did have a set of headers that held the paint OK for like you said about a year. Pulled them off and went turbo. It seems like everytime I have any turbo work done they paint it with a gray cast looking paint and it just turns pink. Looks crazy.

I did that to my old 83 ZX N/A it made a huge difference in the car. That would be a similar setup to the 78 with a turbo and not using the stock turbo electronics. I think that is what your asking right? It was like a whole nother car after it got done. The biggest thing you'll need is some way to increase the amount of fuel avalible under boost and some way to control the timing. The fuel can be done many different ways from adition injectors to a simple Rising Rate FPR. I used the FPR and it works well to about 8 or so PSI. You can use a J&S Knock sensor or something like a MSD ignition control device for the timing. The only thing I don't like about the MSD ia that it will retard timing wheather it needs it or not. The J&S will only take timing off it it needs to.

Looks like a stock manifold to me. Ofcourse it has been painted to look a little diferent. The paint unless professionally coated will burn off in no time. Not really worth the time unless it is sent out to be coated. At this time the bid is only 10.00. Worth that much just to have an extra.

Len, I guess I didn't get it. Try again. I've been getting a ton of spam lately and I'm trying to get rid of it. codyburden@aol.com TBS, I'm going to make a peice that bolts up to the stock downpipe and tot he cat. first so thst I can get through emisions and all for now. After that I'll have some flanges made and make another peice so that it bolts up to the other section of DP. It should be a little more like the stock setup as far as the fitment is conserned. Hoopefully that will make it alittle easier to assemble while crawling around on your back.

Jeff, I'm not to far from Plano let me know if I can help.

Go with the aftermarket knob. Also don't cut much more then the threaded portion off. The stick will be to short and make shifting the car difficult. Just ask me how I know.

Just when I thought I'd turn over my newly rebuilt engine I have a dead battery. Granted it's been sitting for 6 months but, I put it on the trickle charger the other day and it should to have 12.5v on it after I took it off. Tonight it only had 7.4v. Guess it won't hold a charge. This sucks!!!!!!!!!!!! Not only am I going to have to wait till tommarow but, now I'm going to have to buy a new battery. My engine budget is used up and now I'm going to have to find the money from somewhere else. Oh well, I guess I'll live but, it really is annoying when Murphy's Law kicks you in the butt at every turn.

I think it was just the 87-93 model years that work the best. It's been awhile since I did mine.

I know that the Z32's only have one MAS and I'm sure you'll need that. i would work towards getting all the sensors and stuff that you can find. You'll need to do custom work ofcourse to fit everything. Try to do it as stock as possible then take the items off that you don't need.

Details Details????

Lookin' good. By the way unless you have a major home office I want to work wherever you work. I see the car drawing in the background and I can only imagine what conversation goes with that. Also J.S. What are the details? Where did you find this?