seattlejester

@rturbo 930 Ah, I remember some steps cut out in the replacement rails, but I didn't really register them as curves, but yes they are in retrospect. In that case you would either have to notch the beam or notch the floor. I think notching the floor would be easier of the two options, but pulling the high spots down forcefully does not seem like a good idea.

Very excited to see more progress!

Hmm, leaving the rails open seems like a not so good idea, usually people connect the back of the rail to the rear subframe area, granted early Z cars don't have a subframe per say and you have a rear cross member so that may not be as applicable. Additionally I thought welding stainless to mild was a pretty bad idea for anything structural.

I can't say as I do not have a 280z, but the replacement panels I looked up look to be straight. The frame rail caps from baddog my friend ordered for his 280z were also straight which probably indicates that the floor is suppose to be somewhat straight as well. The 2x3 will sit up, my floor near the pedals is about 1 inch raised because I didn't think about that. I would recommend going with a 1x3 out of the two options. As TUME says the 2x3 will have more strength, but the 1x3 will still be quite a bit stronger than the stock ones depending on how you attach it to the floors and front and rear frame points.

^Good to know. Pretty excited to be learning about a whole new skill set.

Happy to report Arttu's build thread is viewable again.

Testing merge

Test

Sorry TUME, I haven't heard anything as of yet. It is really just the title that seems problematic. The floors are supposed to be fairly flat, they have some strengthening beading on a couple places, but where the rail goes it should be pretty flat. I've done 2x3 rails. They stick up in the cabin if you want to keep the bottom of the car above the rocker level. I would suggest 1x3 over 2x3 just because you could keep it under the car. There are a couple users who have done full tubular frame rail replacements. I'll see if I can find a few of them.

I think I'd be happy to swing that. Let me take this over to PM's

Wow, going all out. Are you going to reinforce the master cylinder area as well?

Ooh, let's see it in action!

It's been added to my list along with a speed controller, I always dread having to hog something out with a dremel, this should make the bigger stuff easier hopefully.

Thanks for the link, I'll be looking into more info once I get the unit ordered and the tank most likely.

Not sure, I know I want to work with on some intercooler piping (aluminum), definitely want to redo my engine mounts (stainless), and might have to revisit the turbo manifold (stainless). I read some guides on picking electrodes, cups, and torches, but kind of over my head at the moment.

Of course, but it gives me a bit of a ball park to look at. Like if you cannot control boost with a similar turbo with a smaller engine, lower compression, lower effiiciency, and all that then I have no chance trying to expect control with my setup I installed the 6.9lb springs (uses a 5.6 and a 1.3 spring combined to make 6.9). I did check and I had a 9.4 lb spring installed previously. I ran some data logs so I can find the exact results at a later date, but looking at the little boost gauge I'm definitely creeping in lower gears if I shoot for under 10lbs. It was reading a little bit above 10lbs in 1st and 2nd, in 3rd I definitely hit boost cut if I rolled into it quickly. I can even make trouble for myself in second if I am going up a big grade. Good news is there is really good routing to try and fix it. The 90* rotation adapter for the wastegate mount, then clocking the exit flange should let me do a merge that isn't anywhere as sharp.

Sorry, I should have mentioned my boost control setup, but in my mind it was a flow problem, and still most likely is a flow problem. I think the control mechanism is likely solid now thanks to Chickenman. I think I'm with Chickenman in the MBC camp unless I get into boost by gear type setup, but that would need a digital speedo input and such so not for me right now, if I really wanted EBC again, all I need to do is buy another compatible solenoid since it is all done through megasquirt. Planning on swapping springs tomorrow.

@rossman do you happen to have your numbers? PSI and hp? @softopz I had an EBC, but it turned out it was sticking or something as it would only work sometimes. Following chickenman's recommendation and help I bought a manual boost controller. That is plumbed just into the bottom of the diaphragm. Top one is left open. My thought was that the gate was too small, even with subpar priority and wastegate dumping, I didn't think it would make a big enough difference remedide, but then again I kind of want my dynamic range to be from 10lbs-20lbs so holding the lower number might be asking a lot of the little 38mm flange. The setup isn't problemental as in facing compressor surge or something of that nature, I'm sure the engine would take quite a bit of boost. Too much boost in the sense of it being above what I think is comfortable within safety margins of the injectors currently, possibly the axles as well. I am sure I could stuff more boost into the motor, but I'm still on stock internals and my ECU only reads up to 2.5bar and that is absolute bar so up to 23psi or so. I'd also like to keep the power a bit manageable,

Ah, no, by elephant trunk I meant the remote wastegate mount. Friend has something similar his has maybe a bend or two with maybe 10 inches of piping, so we call the remote wastegate an elephant trunk, makes sense many others don't. Ah, you are using more boost than I am. Well, I will give this a shot, I'll grab some numbers as to when wastegate creep starts and where it hits my boost cut and generate a couple data points, hopefully plan and reroute the wastegate dump in the next week or so. If that doesn't pan out, I'll just plan on stepping up, hogging out the turbo manifold and selling off the 39mm gate.

I think I've pretty much settled on the Everlast 185DV unit. Just waiting on some funds to account for the accessories and the tank I'll have to buy. One of the wants is AC capable, the multiprocess ones don't offer that, at least not without using a spool gun or something of that nature. I also already have a MIG so that would be a bit redundant.

I do have a cheapo harborfrieght die grinder that I find difficult to use for the same reason, speed is just set to kill. An external speed control seems like a good idea if it does not have one. I appreciate the brainstorming. Unfortunately spacing the turbo isn't an option, I have about 1/4-1/2 an inch before the compressor hits the shock tower. So squeezing between the dump and the manifold won't work with that little room. Given the design though I should be able to go off towards the firewall if memory serves. You didn't have any problems with the elephant trunk style? I thought having the wastegate remote located was also not a good thing. How much power were/are you pushing what PSI numbers are you reading? Hmm the GT35R supposedly flows more than my borg warner S257SX-E, granted I most likely have more exhaust flow with my compression and headflow rate. I'm about 50/50 on whether I spend time on trying to get the 38mm to work or just step up to the 44mm.

Wow, I didn't even know that was a thing. I wonder how much flex it could handle. Just to get this straight. The suggestion is with the current 39mm wastegate, cut off the current wastegate dump, cap the turbo dump pipe of the hole, add the flex hose, and see if the 39mm would work at all, basically testing the turbulence theory correct? I know for divorced setups you do want a bellow or a flex joint, if the wastegate reroute takes place it will definitely be that way. The current half measure in my mind is to actually take off the hood, cut and patch the turbo dump, then install the nub of the wastegate on inverted (so it screams to atmosphere) to see if it can hold boost as well.

Hmm, would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Makita-GD0601-4-Inch-Die-Grinder/dp/B001ASC73E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521140870&sr=1-1&keywords=electric+die+grinder Then again, I wonder if a machine shop could drill out the hole for a less than the cost of that tool. I think my endgame plan will be picking up the precision 46mm wastegate, match the flange to the V-band, then clock the waste gate so that the pipe goes out and enters the dump pipe at a 90 degree to the turbo exit (follows the bend of the dump pipe), so that it goes along the curve and gradually blends into taking maybe 3-4 inches to do so. There is a childish part of me that would find a screamer pipe entertaining, but a bigger part of me finds that to be a bit too much theater. Hopefully this solves this and we can finally move onto tuning.

Almost looks like the manifold would have made sense with two wastegates and being truly twin scroll. As it is now it has a bit of a ramp where the exhaust enters the turbo, but it is about an inch or two from sealing. I want to say there is an aftermarket flange adapter type thing that does divide it into a twinscroll, but that would only compound my problem. Not sure the reason, the only one that makes sense to me is for a QSV, but even then I'm not sure. Technically like 87* :D, the more I think about it the more I feel like there was a reason it was done that way given how unideal it is. Not sure if it was to keep access to the bolt or just the room for the turn. I do recall being startled by the lack of space. That 90* adapter might be something. Although I'm not sure how far I can go straight back given how far I placed my motor in the engine bay. The waste gate adapter did catch my eye for stepping up to a 44mm and getting the infinite clock-ability of the V-band. I think the concern with that style is that the hole still remains at 35mm according to some diagrams online. That would mean needing to port the adapter and might as well the manifold, and if that is the case might as well just weld the included wastegate flange from a 44mm wastegate directly to the manifold after porting it to match was my thinking. Not even sure how you port cast stainless. Only thing that was worked before was tungsten carbide bit on a dremel and that took ages just to do a couple mm on a flange. I'm not sure if the hotside change is an option. The only BW turbos with wastegates are the EFR turbos, and even then my spacing is fairly tight. I think the first step will be to take some measurements, then see if there are options. I'll swap springs, but I think the setup prevents this size from working. I think a wastegate change and exhaust rerouting might be in order.

Extra vacuum line might be nice if they want to feed a boost curve into the dyno or something of that nature.