seattlejester

Ah, yes, that is what I imagined. It is interesting they make provisions for an AN10 fitting, which would indicate the use of AN 10 line, but not sure how good they are against direct heat. I guess the lines do sit on the turbo which itself gets pretty darn hot.

If you have a metal/plastic/composites supplier and a jigsaw you can make a spoiler yourself if you have the patience for it. I will say cutting curvatures can really be difficult if you are a perfectionist. I have one on my car as well. It really has very little to no structure stock. I picked mine up folded in half as an example of how flexible these things are. I bought a steel rod that I bent to the curvature I wanted and zip tied to holes drilled in the bottom. For the middle I bolted on an aluminum plate that spans the width of the bumper I probably should tie it to the chassis, but I take it off often enough where that would be a hassle. The lowest price I think I found was if you picked it up from a 4 wheel parts store with a coupon. 4 wheel parts is a xenon distributor and shipping parts to the store was free the last time I checked. Pre post edit - not seeing it on there anymore, maybe worth a call.

45 against the flow direction right? I've been curious how those work, I would imagine they would just melt whatever was connected to them pretty much.

Hmm, it is a pneumatic part. I'll put some pneumatic oil in there and see if I can get it to reliably fire, if not looks like I might be placing an order with you for a replacement

Hah, don't do that. You need pre-turbo inlet, the hole on the housing is a boost source, plumbing that into a sealed catch can would for sure blow out something. For the catch can/valve covers you really want a vacuum source, which on a turbo car comes only from a pre-turbo inlet or there are some exhaust driven vacuum source generator type things. For sure read up, always good to discuss things.

Well some updates regarding the issue. Tested the solenoid and I could hear it clicking via test mode on the pulse setting, I am not hearing it click on with the on button. I changed the table, setting the value to 35% everywhere to see if I could get the duty cycle to shift. Heard the boost solenoid while the car was running, duty cycle at 35%, everything good. Took the car out and it made about 7-10lbs under load with partial throttle. Picked up a friend shot some footage, got back turned the car back on and couldn't even start getting into it as it hit 20+lbs at 4k rpm under partial load. So the boost control was working periodically? Before allotting the oddness to writing problems with using a mac I went back and ran a simple test of repeated on/off cycles It seems sometimes the solenoid just doesn't trigger? I can hear a high pitched whine when it isn't audibly clicking. Is this just a bad solenoid? I've used these in other applications, but usually when a solenoid dies, it just ceases to function. Am I just catching it on the tail end of going out?

Not silly at all. It took a bit of reading, convincing, then planning before I arrived at a choice that made sense to me. Of those two you would want to run the one on the left with the vacuum source being higher then the oil source (from valve cover), preferably with a baffle plate to prevent oil from being pulled directly into the vacuum source. You would also want it sealed (as in no air filter on the box) so that it is actively pulling vacuum under boost (otherwise the vacuum would pull air from the filter on the catch can which is easier). So, hoses from the valve cover to an upper portion on a tallish catch can, vacuum source to a point higher than the hoses or straight up on top of the valve cover going to pre turbo intake. Running the one on the right you would pull oil residue directly through the turbo from one of the covers. I am almost sure that Rad Dan's supra is running the "correct" setup. Another "correct" one An "incorrect" one in my opinion. I think that style is popular coming from the NA world, and some other engines may not suffer on boost, but I've read with 2jz it is something to look into. Radium sells "correct" catch cans as well, I think they have a good article as well, but they do charge really quite a bit. I also made sure to run similar diameter to prevent excessive vacuum. So I have the same diameter hose from both valve covers feeding into the catch can, and the catch can has two more hoses feeding to the pre turbo inlet. I do invite you to run your own searching, this is one of those things I see a lot of people claim "I've done X never had any problems" on both sides of the fence. The strongest advocates for running sealed with vacuum generally are those who have had front seals pop out or want to be extra cautious. For me it made sense, and I made mine with an eBay catch can, a couple extra holes, and some welding.

Having blown out one of my lines, I completely agreed having a mechanical secondary would be nice. Granted kind of a make do with what I have situation at the moment. Nice to know this isn't a novel idea in our application.

@Exposed Oh well this is a fancy feature. With higher boost levels people have noted positive pressure in the crank case. With out positive evacuation from the crank case (crank case vents through head into valve covers) the positive pressure can push out the front main seal causing the dreaded FMS oil leak especially if it isn't installed perfectly. So some people say you have to run vacuum to the valve cover vents, as in to the inlet to the turbo or exhaust driven vacuum. Granted you don't want to pull oil vapors through the turbo people usually run catch cans inline to the vacuum source. People who run open air systems have reported front main seal leaks, most people usually don't find the problem until they go to do the timing belt and find a bunch of oil residue behind the timing belt cover. Some have gotten away with running a dip stick vent although not sure how effective that alone is.

I'm not a professional engine builder, but as long as the bore is not oblong, and you gap the rings appropriately I don't think that little scratch will be catastrophic. The concern wouldn't be that it would burn and consume a little oil (with the ring gap you probably want it most likely will a little bit anyway) it would be that the rings wear prematurely or maybe get filed down to a weak spot and breaks. GE VVTI internals won't be able to handle the goals you are aiming for from anecdotal evidence, so swapping to at least non vvti internals would be a good idea, swapping to GTE internals would be even better if they can be found and I think they would lower the compression a bit without having to resort to a thick head gasket.

Currently I have the rear brake lines coming up into the cab with a proportioning valve, then fed into the hydraulic hand brake then returning to the rear brakes. When I need to get out of the car for a moment (enter gate code, grab a ticket, etc) I have a little nut that I slip under the hydraulic hand brake to keep the car stationary. I made a different hydraulic hand brake which does not have this feature, nor do I think it will allow for something of this style feature given the eventual mounting location. I've seen others online run a bungie cable and hook the handle to supply just a little bit of pressure to keep the car from rolling, but I would like to look into a line lock again. I had a Jammar push to lock line lock at one point, but I've had it pop up several times while testing which made me remove it from the system. I would like to stay away from the solenoid style, as I have heard of them burning out. That brings me to ball valves. I'm not talking about the cheaper ones, I'm talking about the higher pressure rated precision ball valves. Several of the offroad groups seem to run these as they usually loose parking capabilities with their lifts. Any one have thoughts on the matter? The one I am looking at at the moment is B-43F2 https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/Product/Detail?part=B-43F2

That looks very cool! I just noticed, are you going to run just the filters on the valve covers?

I think I would like to see more spacing as in a faster up and down movement more helixy less springy, but honestly for a hand hone you shouldn't expect perfection. Yea....that piston is done. That doesn't bode well for the rest of the engine I imagine. The problem as chickenman says is going to be re-ringing it. Make sure you get a sufficient size ring. I can't imagine you actually bored out a size, but best to check. If you plan on running 500hp like you say, make sure you have an appropriate ring gap. Now would also be the time to maybe look at GTE internals if your engine was a VVTI GE. The bummer is with the piston in that condition, you really are going to want to have the block, head, and crank flushed realistically. Bits of metal can really screw with oil pressure and lubrication. In addition the crank apparently can store quite a bit of crud even after being cleaned, so right now I imagine it is quite guncked. I believe real street has a very good video on how to clean out the crank AFTER it has been professionally cleaned, and how to install it correctly to prevent crank walk so keep that in mind.

Hmm, floor mounts for the trans then? Or some plates further near the tail of the trans that move forward?

Those marks don't happen naturally. What does the corresponding piston/piston ring look like? Bottom line is if it is a scratch it will affect engine life. Kind of a cost/benefit type situation. I've seen people ignore things because they can't afford it, end up having to replace or rebuild it later and not finish the project because of a lack of funds, I've seen people overbuild spend all of their budget making sure things are 10/10 and never getting around to finishing. I don't think you will be able to get all of it out with a hone tool. Hone tool is really just there to kind of restore the finish not to bore out scratches. You can try and see, for $20-40 it isn't a bad way to see if you can get it good enough. I will say I don't know many places that loan dingle ball hones, the three stone hones are a bit harder to get a nice pattern with so buying the right size dingle ball hone might be a better idea. Build a booth and wear a shirt you don't care about it will make a mess. Remember never to stop in the cylinder and maintain a rapid up and down motion continuing to spin as you pull it out or you will leave vertical scratches.

Yay an update! Woohoo another one on the road. Zproblem? Like ze problem mein frauline is ze car uses up all my money

In reality though, how often do you change the track width of the car? Edit: ^sorry that seemed a bit more combative then I meant for it. Genuine curiosity. I can't even come close to say I do many duties with my car, so curious how often does one change the track width? More for different tracks? More for different sets of tires? Or is it just one of those they were there, they could have just added it as a feature type things? Kind of planning my next set of arms and would like to incorporate what I can.

Hmm I'm not finding any. I'm not sure what tire size I was looking at. Maybe 215/60/15? http://www.1010tires.com/Tires/215-60R15 Couple more choices, no ultra summers though.

I bought the bottom slots according to my receipt. They look like they do on the website. http://www.driftmotion.com/Denso-Bottom-Slot-Conn-F2-p/dm1611.htm A bit of hackery, but if you have the denso clips, but they just have the wrong slot, you can shave the ears off of the injector.

I agree, just pointing out a potential downfall even though minor, how many of us have stuck spindle pins and need to change out our suspension often? Probably very very few.

Driftmotion sells new ones with pig tails or with pins, that is where I got mine. You can also keep an eye out for RX-7 injector clips as they also run the same type of connector. Miata guys like to run the rx7 injectors so they usually are floating around.

Did you have to do anything with the mounting holes? Or was it a direct fit? I recall you mentioned the 280z booster and the size in your brake performance thread, but then I saw Tamo and Dexter both say the 280zx boosters fit. Looks like they both have 280z's and those may have had a bigger spot? Then again, I read on classic Z that all boosters are interchangeable from 70-83 so I'm a bit confused.

I think they make pretty low torque numbers. John Coffey said he didn't think it would be a problem for street driving, but once you start putting work into it from corners is when you would want to start regularly replacing fluid and maybe look at a diff cooler.

^Do you happen to have the year? I'm thinking up upping my brake booster with my 15/16 master as well

I was kind of bummed they didn't talk about the whole S-chassis thing. Would have been an interesting talking point and a connection to the cars they have built.